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Old 09-20-2019, 09:12 PM   #1
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Exhaust reroute considerations

OK!
So I rigged up a temporary bracket for the muffler and installed it, to determine how I'm gonna route the exhaust pipe.



With the muffler connected to the bracket, I noticed that, possibly, I could cut the exhaust just about a foot or so after the turbo and run a flex pipe-or weld up pieces-almost straight across the firewall to the muffler. I would wrap the flex pipe, or regular pipe section, with heat insulation tape for exhausts.

You can see the "silver" exhaust from the turbo pretty good-how its about in line with the muffler, in the first picture.


The other way is the tailpipe running down under the bus, making u-turn, and coming back up to the muffler. Seems like a convoluted way to do it.



Anyone dealt with this before? Is it detrimental to cut the tail pipe just after the turbo and run it straight across to the muffler?


Here are a few pictures...
IMG_5799.jpgIMG_7945.jpgIMG_9050.jpgIMG_0297.jpgIMG_4739.jpg
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:29 PM   #2
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A few more pictures.

The exhaust will run up to the roof line and get capped with one of those balanced steel things to keep rain out. I want the sort of steampunk look the tail pipe will give it.
IMG_0318.jpg

IMG_0319.jpg
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:44 AM   #3
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why stacking it? underneath the bus full of other stuff?I deleted the resrtrictive muffler on my 444E and ran it out the right side but am not happy as its loud.. i; end up running it behind the bus for noise.. I gained a pound or 2 of boost and a little lower EGTs doing the muffler delete


I think most of the big rigs use a double wall insulater to go near the body sections to keep the heat down.. you can still conceivably have 800-900 degress before your muffler and even into it..



something like these to sleeve around the pipes?
https://www.truckpipesusa.com/produc...kaAkedEALw_wcB


-Christopher
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Old 09-21-2019, 10:05 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
why stacking it? underneath the bus full of other stuff?I deleted the resrtrictive muffler on my 444E and ran it out the right side but am not happy as its loud.. i; end up running it behind the bus for noise.. I gained a pound or 2 of boost and a little lower EGTs doing the muffler delete

I think most of the big rigs use a double wall insulater to go near the body sections to keep the heat down.. you can still conceivably have 800-900 degress before your muffler and even into it..

something like these to sleeve around the pipes?
https://www.truckpipesusa.com/produc...kaAkedEALw_wcB

-Christopher



I like the look of the one stack. I'm going for a sort of steampunk look. I drove the bus with the pipe underneath and no muffler and it was ridiculously loud. Got this new muffler, which is not restrictive, and using it as pat of the stack.
I am planning to use some kind of heat shield. Thanks for the link!
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Old 09-21-2019, 10:27 AM   #5
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also rubber insulate any brackets and hangers for vibration.. and because the engine moves on its rubber mounts some so you'll have movement in the exhaust thats required..



I like the look of stacks.. just havent figure out how to make it look cool on a bus yet and not impede the windshield view
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Old 09-21-2019, 11:18 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
also rubber insulate any brackets and hangers for vibration.. and because the engine moves on its rubber mounts some so you'll have movement in the exhaust thats required..

I like the look of stacks.. just havent figure out how to make it look cool on a bus yet and not impede the windshield view



I'm thinking of using something like this in the exhaust line to help with movement and vibration:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...ex+pipe&pos=16


The exhaust looks like 3" from the turbo, and then opens up to 4" in the regular tail pipe. I'm thinking the sooner it opens up to 4" the better, and running it across the firewall to the muffler/stack is gonna be much better than down, around the frame, and back up.



For rubber insulation on the hangar, I figure I can make something using an old tire tread.


Sitting in the driver seat, I checked with the stack on, and it really doesn't block much at all. There's actually less view obstruction than in my FJ Cruiser.
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Old 09-21-2019, 11:32 AM   #7
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I'm trying to decide whether to chop the exhaust while still connected, or remove it first.



Seems like the only connection is to the exhaust on the turbo. I know nothing of diesels at the moment (this is my first diesel). So, has anyone done this? Is it easy to remove and reinstall?


Here's a photo, with the arrow pointing at what looks like the only thing clamping the pipe to the turbo.


IMG_0288.jpg
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:21 PM   #8
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I dig it, love the look.
Im goin with a single chrome stack in the rear on our bus.
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Old 09-21-2019, 02:30 PM   #9
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That’s cool. I took that little section off the fender to make mine fit where it is .
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Old 09-21-2019, 07:47 PM   #10
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So I loosened the bolt on what appears to be a ring clamp on the exhaust/turbo. However, I can't get it to budge.

Don't want to force it.


Anyone done this before? Any advice?


My intent is to remove the exhaust, cut it, and weld up a 90 degree so it can go across the firewall to the new exhaust/muffler position. I'll install a flexible section to account for vibration and some movement.


IMG_0288.jpg
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Old 09-21-2019, 08:04 PM   #11
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That's a standard "V" bans clamp. The turbo and pipe each have a flange on the end, the butt up against each other and the band clamp holds them together. Remove the clamp and they come right apart. Hit it with some PB Blaster and let it soak in, should break free.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo-PB-13822-1503948315_400x.jpg (31.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 00Z0Z_19Ta737HiV8_1200x900.jpg (14.2 KB, 4 views)
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Old 09-21-2019, 08:18 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
that's a standard "v" bans clamp. The turbo and pipe each have a flange on the end, the butt up against each other and the band clamp holds them together. Remove the clamp and they come right apart. Hit it with some pb blaster and let it soak in, should break free.





awesome!!!
Thank you!!!
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Old 09-21-2019, 10:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
So I loosened the bolt on what appears to be a ring clamp on the exhaust/turbo. However, I can't get it to budge.

Don't want to force it.


Anyone done this before? Any advice?


My intent is to remove the exhaust, cut it, and weld up a 90 degree so it can go across the firewall to the new exhaust/muffler position. I'll install a flexible section to account for vibration and some movement.


Attachment 37752

There is probably a U-bolt holding the pipe just before it curves back under the floor and leads the exhaust to the back. I remade our exhaust in our FS-65. The muffler was almost non-existant and was originally next to the fuel tank. I put in striaight pipe to the back and added the muffler in the back behind the rear wheels on the passenger side. The S-pipe which leads from the turbo down to the muffler was clamped as I described above.
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Old 09-22-2019, 12:30 AM   #14
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Thank you!
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Old 09-22-2019, 03:28 PM   #15
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Anyone have advice on removing the clamp between turbo and exhaust? “Vbans”?
I took off the bolt that tightens it, but it won’t budge!!!
Don’t want to break anything!

B3BC8FB3-5A4E-43DC-B0D8-093E376EE642.jpg
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:36 PM   #16
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Whack it with a mallet to dislodge it. Pry it loose from the split at the top of the inner ring. There's really nothing you can break. When you get it off, you're going to kick yourself for how easy it was. Rust is holding it together.
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:41 PM   #17
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Found this on youtube. But I don't have an air hammer!





So...


I just tapped it with a long socket extension and it came right off! Easy!


After some measuring, cutting, tack welding, placement, marking, cutting, tack welding, grinding... I finally got the exhaust how I want it. Now I have to order one of those flex hoses that are made with the woven stainless to bridge between the 3.5" exhaust to the 4" muffler and pipe.


I feel VERY satisfied today!!!


Attachment 37776

Attachment 37777
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Whack it with a mallet to dislodge it. Pry it loose from the split at the top of the inner ring. There's really nothing you can break. When you get it off, you're going to kick yourself for how easy it was. Rust is holding it together.

Thanks!
Came off EASY!!!
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:23 PM   #19
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Thanks!
Came off EASY!!!
I should have told you that, oh wait.......
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:24 AM   #20
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It does feel great to get that elusive part freed up!


Any pictures of the tacking & cutting you'd like to share?
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