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Old 07-04-2019, 07:02 PM   #1
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Fix factory air or run generator while driving

Iím happy to be directed to another thread as no doubt this has been abundantly answered, a search didnít answer my question.

98 bluebird tc/2000 8.3 Cummins. 2 motor driven compressors, no belts, seized up. Port side underskirt condenser awol just some limp chopped off coolant lines. 2 inside evaporators of unknown conditionality. You can see one behind my noggin in pic.

Installing 2 roof mount ac units and genset in basement for sure.

Just install 1 system (generator and roof mounts)and get rolling, or is there some significant value in restoring the motor driven ac system?Iíd be quite interested in others perspectives who have chosen and had to live with the choice.

The conversion has yet to start, so now is the time to whip me into shape!

Thanks
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:39 PM   #2
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Take into consideration that the bus AC will only work when engine running. If you're camping you'll need another source for AC. Many of us remove the factory AC and replace them with Mini-splits. When deleting the factory AC, if you have front AC, you'll want to keep it for driving.
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:19 PM   #3
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Wish I had an answer for you, but I don't, so here's a bump for what I feel to be a really great question. Quite the conundrum! It sounds like an expensive proposition to get your stock AC back up to being functional. Hope you get some responses from people who know more than me. I'm very curious myself.
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Old 07-05-2019, 02:47 PM   #4
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here;s the thing about it... if you want to be cool while driving fix the Engine driven air conditioning.. here are some numbers for you..


in a stock 35-40 ft school bus they typically run 120,000 - 140,000 BTU of air conditioning for the road...granted its not insulated and is designed for a load of passengers..



that said your little camper A/C is 12,000 BTU... if you can even feel it going down the road I'd be surprised... with 2 of them side by side you might stop the sweat on your brow with the vents pointed in your face...



if you are going to completely gut your bus top to bottom, spray foam, insulate the floors.. seal up the cracks and crevices to the engine compartment and such.. then you can probably cool a rear engine bus with 40,000 - 50,000 BTU on the road..add 10,000-15,000 for a front engine due to engine heat..



so pull one unit out and move the other's evaporator to the front of the bus and you can stay cool and get rid of some of those ugly ceiling units..



if you arent going to completely gut and foam the inside of your bus then I'd surely plan to only travel to places 75 degrees outside.. or fix both systems and stay nice N cool...



for reference, my 6 window bluebird shorty with tinted windows and some extra factory insulation (though not gutted and foamed) has a 45000-50,000 BTU TransAir unit in it.. that i have completely gone over and fully reconditioned.. on days when im driving into the sun and its mid 90s out, I never sweat but I dont freeze either.. it is adequete.. even in that shorty..... granted its completely unconverted stock with seats..

-Christopher
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Old 07-05-2019, 02:53 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
here;s the thing about it... if you want to be cool while driving fix the Engine driven air conditioning.. here are some numbers for you..


in a stock 35-40 ft school bus they typically run 120,000 - 140,000 BTU of air conditioning for the road...granted its not insulated and is designed for a load of passengers..



that said your little camper A/C is 12,000 BTU... if you can even feel it going down the road I'd be surprised... with 2 of them side by side you might stop the sweat on your brow with the vents pointed in your face...



if you are going to completely gut your bus top to bottom, spray foam, insulate the floors.. seal up the cracks and crevices to the engine compartment and such.. then you can probably cool a rear engine bus with 40,000 - 50,000 BTU on the road..add 10,000-15,000 for a front engine due to engine heat..



so pull one unit out and move the other's evaporator to the front of the bus and you can stay cool and get rid of some of those ugly ceiling units..



if you arent going to completely gut and foam the inside of your bus then I'd surely plan to only travel to places 75 degrees outside.. or fix both systems and stay nice N cool...



for reference, my 6 window bluebird shorty with tinted windows and some extra factory insulation (though not gutted and foamed) has a 45000-50,000 BTU TransAir unit in it.. that i have completely gone over and fully reconditioned.. on days when im driving into the sun and its mid 90s out, I never sweat but I dont freeze either.. it is adequete.. even in that shorty..... granted its completely unconverted stock with seats..

-Christopher
If I'm not mistaken, even with those big BTU numbers the bus system is only designed to drop the temps up to 20* from ambient outside temp.
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Old 07-05-2019, 04:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
If I'm not mistaken, even with those big BTU numbers the bus system is only designed to drop the temps up to 20* from ambient outside temp.

20-25.. but if im cruising along on the freeway where the road temps outside are near 100.. and the traffic is loud and dust-a-flyin.. I'll gladly take the 75-80 degree interior temp with 50 degree air blowing around..

its 2019, I just refuse to go back to 1949 just because its apparently hip to "rough-it" in a skoolie so you can have that extra 3 feet of ceiling space.


I add A/C to everything I get my hands on.. or re-condition it if its there.. even my 1978 Superior is going to get 120,000 BTU of A/C that Looks like it wouldve been factory in 1978
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
here;s the thing about it... if you want to be cool while driving fix the Engine driven air conditioning.. here are some numbers for you..


in a stock 35-40 ft school bus they typically run 120,000 - 140,000 BTU of air conditioning for the road...granted its not insulated and is designed for a load of passengers..



that said your little camper A/C is 12,000 BTU... if you can even feel it going down the road I'd be surprised... with 2 of them side by side you might stop the sweat on your brow with the vents pointed in your face...



if you are going to completely gut your bus top to bottom, spray foam, insulate the floors.. seal up the cracks and crevices to the engine compartment and such.. then you can probably cool a rear engine bus with 40,000 - 50,000 BTU on the road..add 10,000-15,000 for a front engine due to engine heat..



so pull one unit out and move the other's evaporator to the front of the bus and you can stay cool and get rid of some of those ugly ceiling units..



if you arent going to completely gut and foam the inside of your bus then I'd surely plan to only travel to places 75 degrees outside.. or fix both systems and stay nice N cool...



for reference, my 6 window bluebird shorty with tinted windows and some extra factory insulation (though not gutted and foamed) has a 45000-50,000 BTU TransAir unit in it.. that i have completely gone over and fully reconditioned.. on days when im driving into the sun and its mid 90s out, I never sweat but I dont freeze either.. it is adequete.. even in that shorty..... granted its completely unconverted stock with seats..

-Christopher
I'm very glad to see you back on here, man!
I was hoping someone could explain it!
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
20-25.. but if im cruising along on the freeway where the road temps outside are near 100.. and the traffic is loud and dust-a-flyin.. I'll gladly take the 75-80 degree interior temp with 50 degree air blowing around..

its 2019, I just refuse to go back to 1949 just because its apparently hip to "rough-it" in a skoolie so you can have that extra 3 feet of ceiling space.


I add A/C to everything I get my hands on.. or re-condition it if its there.. even my 1978 Superior is going to get 120,000 BTU of A/C that Looks like it wouldve been factory in 1978
I've gotta put some ac in my truck!
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:15 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
20-25.. but if im cruising along on the freeway where the road temps outside are near 100.. and the traffic is loud and dust-a-flyin.. I'll gladly take the 75-80 degree interior temp with 50 degree air blowing around..

its 2019, I just refuse to go back to 1949 just because its apparently hip to "rough-it" in a skoolie so you can have that extra 3 feet of ceiling space.


I add A/C to everything I get my hands on.. or re-condition it if its there.. even my 1978 Superior is going to get 120,000 BTU of A/C that Looks like it wouldve been factory in 1978
Don't get me wrong, 80 inside when it's 100 outside will be quite comfortable. Not like 80 inside when it's 60 outside.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:28 PM   #10
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Don't get me wrong, 80 inside when it's 100 outside will be quite comfortable. Not like 80 inside when it's 60 outside.
I'd take either!
I like it around 80 all the time.
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