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07-27-2017, 03:32 PM
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#1
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Floor adhesive removal
After I pulled the rubber floor up I would like to prep for painting but I need to remove the remaining glue. Any advice. I have tried scraping and it comes of but takes forever. I used an angle grinder with different discs too; the wire brush almost take it all off but I can still see an impression of where it was, the flap disc and scotch brute both work great but they also remove the galvanization.
So I guess the real question is, would rolling rustoleum oil based primer/paint onto bare steel get a better adhesion or would I get a better adhesion of rustoleum by leaving the galvanized steel intact?
I think I want the galv to keep its sacrificial properties, but if the paint won't stick as good maybe I should just rely more on the rustoleum to protect from rust.
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07-27-2017, 03:35 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Grab a gallon of Ospho. Great for galvanized floors with or without rust. To paint galvanized steel you need to etch it first, so the oshpo takes care of that.
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07-27-2017, 03:44 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
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what are you going to cover the floor with? I have both left the rubber on the floor before carpeting, and removed also in a flx bus.. works either way
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
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07-27-2017, 03:45 PM
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#4
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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The Glue.
Flap disc/Scotch Brite
Wire wheel.
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07-27-2017, 03:46 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
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I covered mine with carpeting and linoleum. No probs.
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07-27-2017, 03:49 PM
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#6
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Grab a gallon of Ospho. Great for galvanized floors with or without rust. To paint galvanized steel you need to etch it first, so the oshpo takes care of that.
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So are you suggesting it is better to leave the galvanized coating on and just remove the glue residue from the surface?
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07-27-2017, 03:53 PM
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#7
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chev49
what are you going to cover the floor with? I have both left the rubber on the floor before carpeting, and removed also in a flx bus.. works either way
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I was planning OSPHO, rustoleum primer, seal all holes, rustoleum paint, 2" pink foam board (floating), 5/8" plywood, then eventually some finished flooring (tile bathroom and wood stove area, and bamboo or hardwood or maybe vinyl the rest)
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07-27-2017, 05:27 PM
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#8
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipoffools
I was planning OSPHO, rustoleum primer, seal all holes, rustoleum paint, 2" pink foam board (floating), 5/8" plywood, then eventually some finished flooring (tile bathroom and wood stove area, and bamboo or hardwood or maybe vinyl the rest)
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Sounds good to me. Don't get hung-up on perfection.
Get 'er done.
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07-27-2017, 06:14 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipoffools
So are you suggesting it is better to leave the galvanized coating on and just remove the glue residue from the surface?
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yeah. Then ospho it.
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07-27-2017, 06:14 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipoffools
I was planning OSPHO, rustoleum primer, seal all holes, rustoleum paint, 2" pink foam board (floating), 5/8" plywood, then eventually some finished flooring (tile bathroom and wood stove area, and bamboo or hardwood or maybe vinyl the rest)
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Sounds solid to me.
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07-27-2017, 06:35 PM
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#11
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
Sounds good to me. Don't get hung-up on perfection.
Get 'er done.
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Im going for it.
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07-29-2017, 11:59 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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I used 1" pink board and 3/4" tongue and groove plywood for the floor. Standard building supply stuff, and I can still stand up straight.
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07-30-2017, 12:32 AM
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#13
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Almost There
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 80
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Carpenter (Cavalier)
Chassis: International Harvester
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
I used 1" pink board and 3/4" tongue and groove plywood for the floor. Standard building supply stuff, and I can still stand up straight.
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Standing up won't be a problem since my room is now 8 ft. But I will use tounge and groove if I can find it. Maybe even 2" pink board.
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