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Old 05-27-2018, 10:31 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Whatthefak View Post
I've read alot on it from different sources. The gist of what I got is there are people in the industry pushing for better real life measure of R value because of the life span of foaming gases, some have larger molecules and permiate the foam cell wall more slowly and the gases have better insulation property than air.

By the numbers alone xps looks better and does perform better in heat, but the cheaper pink board seems to be longer lived and performs the same in heat and cold, but at a slightly lower R rating

I'm not an expert, that's just what I got from researching because I live in Wisconsin and don't want to be cold.
The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now Iím utterly confused.
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:36 PM   #12
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The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now Iím utterly confused.
Some, not all.
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:21 PM   #13
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The pink Owens Corning IS xps.
And now Iím utterly confused.
Sorry was referring to EPS
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:26 PM   #14
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Iíd like to be prepared for any situation 👍
I think Iíll go with the XPís on the floor.
If Iíve researched enough, am I correct that I wonít need a vapor barrier underneath either the foam or plywood?
XPS and marine ply is what my shorty's getting.
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:34 PM   #15
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XPS and marine ply is what my shorty's getting.
But you sir live in the warm sun, I get -30 some times.

Good call on the marine ply

Not sure how I'm going yet
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:41 PM   #16
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But you sir live in the warm sun, I get -30 some times.

Good call on the marine ply

Not sure how I'm going yet
Yeah, but I know folks with less of NO insulation living in buses much farther north than me. And mine is just a cruiser/daily driver/weekend warrior.
Well-once I get around to fixing it.

-30 in a bus would have me driving south asap!
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:39 AM   #17
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On the subject of the insulation, i would recommend a radiant barrier. Radiant barriers are, in my experience, make a world of a difference. For your plywood, find someone local that carries a product called "advantech". Comparable to 5/8" plywood, but denser, and completely waterproof. Mind you, you have to use the 5/8" and not the 3/4". The 5/8 is a sheeting and has a resin impregnated completely through it. It's also tongue and groove. The 3/4 only has the resin on the edges. You'll also find that the sound deadening properties of this are quite well.
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Old 05-28-2018, 12:23 PM   #18
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Here in Alaska, I can get regular 3/4" plywood for $50/sheet, marine ply for $100, and I can't find Advantech. The floor needs around 9 sheets. $900 versus $450 is a big difference. How important is it in your opinion?
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:42 PM   #19
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Never saw a Skoolie that didn't have a leak somewhere or get the floor wet from something.


Also never saw regular plywood survive getting wet very well.



Since it will be the "foundation" for everything inside...well...
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:31 PM   #20
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Ready to lay flooring insulation.
I’ve been told—given the very very good condition of the metal sheeting—that I don’t ‘need’ to paint it first.
I have a 38' rear-engine. I ripped up the floor then used a wire cup brush to blow off any and all rust, I then primed with Rustoleum rust converter and put two coats of Rustoleum gloss white down. It took a couple hours at best (minus wait times) and its BULLETPROOF- I'll sleep better at night knowing I did it.

I had my tarps fly off in the middle of the night a few times on me when it rained- had pools of water in the corners. Didn't matter- I painted every bare metal surface I could reach and I don't worry about it. I've made drain holes for any place that pockets up water so it can get out when it needs to.
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