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Old 10-12-2008, 07:54 PM   #1
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Floor question

OK, I read another poster's question about the rubber, and I think we will be leaving our rubber in. I am, however, thinking of laying down 3/4 inch plywood on top of the rubber, with linoleum and/or carpets on top of that. One reason is simple: I don't want to have to crawl under the bus everytime I have to fasten something down. While I know I will need to go through with the seats and seatbelts, it seems like it would be easier to anchor cabinets and certain fixtures to the 3/4 inch subfloor. Plus, wood is a decent insulator, so it would add that as well.

My question, then: Is this sound reasoning or am I all wet? I'd hate to have to spend the money only to have to rip things out because I flubbed up. I appreciate any advice on this.

Also, I believe I read somewhere that the RV hookups need to be on the driver's side. Is this the normal setup?
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:30 PM   #2
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Re: Floor question

i left the rubber floor in all of my buses. They also had 3/4 marine grade plywood under the rubber from the factory. I really like to fasten things down with self drilling tek screws. A couple of those babies through the floor or walls and your all set!

puttign 3/4 over top of the rubber sounds like a fine idea to me. can't think of a good reason not to do it.
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:47 PM   #3
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Re: Floor question


Correct -- the waste outlet is standardized on the left side. Hecka lot easier to drain it into the dump stations when you don't have to pick up the bus and turn it backwards first.

And I believe water and electricity hookups are also on the left, but I'll let someone who has used RV park hookups confirm this.

As was mentioned, a 1/4 inch "self drilling" screw will get a great bite in the steel floor, no matter how weak the plywood may be. I drill a 3/16 hole first, to make it easy.
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:39 PM   #4
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Re: Floor question

They do put almost all of them on the left side near the rear. Some rv owners have complained about hookups being on the wrong side. Those are the ones that have them every other one water electric water electric. I have seen a few trailers were thy put the electric plug at the rear end and not on the side.
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:08 PM   #5
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Re: Floor question

I ripped up all my rubber up and then install 5/8 ply with pex for radiant floor heat in grooves I left then put 3/8 over all that yet but if I werent doing the in floor heat I might leave the rubber in. Its not all that much work though! A couple of hours and it was out. Hook ups definately on the drivers side up here in Canada anyway.
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:04 PM   #6
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Re: Floor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Franklin
I ripped up all my rubber up and then install 5/8 ply with pex for radiant floor heat in grooves I left then put 3/8 over all that yet but if I werent doing the in floor heat I might leave the rubber in. Its not all that much work though! A couple of hours and it was out. Hook ups definately on the drivers side up here in Canada anyway.
Say ... What are you thinking about using for heating for the radiant heating? I've been thinking about tying some into the coolant lines, but I'll need something for when the bus isn't running.


Anyhow, our plan is to rip up the rubber and wood (especially since pulling up some of the seat bolts yielded water that, when dried, left salt deposits), then putting down 3/4" planks and some rigid pink insulation. We're debating 1/2" radiant tubing in this 3/4" space, then some 1/2"-3/4" oak or maple tongue-and-groove over most of it. I expect the bathroom area will be tiled over some 1/2" plywood or cementboard.

Now, my question to add to this:
When ripping up the floor, do you all plan to do so all the way up to and including the driver's seat?
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:34 AM   #7
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Re: Floor question

I ripped up my floor. There was plenty of nastiness under that rubber. Everything seemed solid, but there was mold and mildew on the underlying wood, some slight rust on the steel floor in places, and that smell of rubber. I ended up doing furring strips and insulation. I would strongly suggest that you at least pull up a small amount of the rubber and check it out. Sure, most of my wood was good, but the areas along the central aisle and the edges where water had a path through were pretty ugly.

I ripped my floor out up until a convenient break in the boards directly behind the drivers seat. This gives me a bit of an entryway for dirty/wet shoes. Nevertheless, my carpet is pretty well trashed.

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Old 10-31-2008, 12:38 PM   #8
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Re: Floor question

Quote:
Hex said
Say ... What are you thinking about using for heating for the radiant heating? I've been thinking about tying some into the coolant lines, but I'll need something for when the bus isn't running.
Hey sorry for taking so long to respond. I am seriously looking at Precision Temps "Twin Temp-2" After inquiring they said it would heat domestic water and radiant floor heat with electric and or propane. I have to find out a little more info before buying though. http://www.precisiontemp.com/pt_rvmd_twintemp2.html
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