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Old 05-13-2016, 09:28 PM   #21
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The roof it's self is pretty light, movement we're talking about is springing out when the ribs are cut
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:38 PM   #22
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Smile

Ok, I see.
I was picturing the entire roof flexing left and right along the length and the ribs widening as well as curling front to back. I had the whole 6 axis twist in my head.

I think, I would be safe lifting with the assisted alignment bolts and brackets and floor jacks.

If not, we were certainly hear about it here haha.
Thank you.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:45 PM   #23
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You should Still use something to keep it stable like tube and all thread
You don't want it getting away from you, far as lifting one person can push it up a couple inches while one person or two run the all thread
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
DO you have any pics of that? Thanks!
Here ya go
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:06 PM   #25
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Cool

Yes,
I fabricated round tubing to fit around 5/8ths 3' all thread.
I will weld it to four (two on each side, second rib from the front and rear) to help stabilize and prevent movement. As well as, help with some of the weight between incremental lifts.

Once it is lifted, I will weld 1x1 tubing in the rib channels with at least a foot above and below the cuts. I have sheet steel and I made a metal break to produce the thin sheet angles to mimic the surface area of the original ribs for riveting the new sheet steel onto the ribs.

Oh, another important aspect is that I am leaving the first section above the driver's seat and door alone. It will not be lifted and the second section between ribs will be removed prior to the lift. I will finish the lift and then add reinforcements from rib to rib over the exposed area and cover with sheet steel to give it a nice aerodynamic flow.

I personally don't care for the look of lifting a truck nose bus when, it is lifted complete from front to back. It looks very unnatural and appears to create horrible drag. So, I will give it a nice air diverter look.

Now, as far as the lift, I have the full length rain edge above the windows. I plan to remove the screws and attach the top of the new sheet steel to the area under the drip edge and down to the first horizontal exterior rib on the body. It gives me roughly a 16 inch lift.

Should I predrill the holes in the sheet metal bigger than normal to allow for expansion in different seasons (Northern Minnesota temp sways of 100 degrees)?

Thanks
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:43 PM   #26
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Yes,
I fabricated round tubing to fit around 5/8ths 3' all thread.
I will weld it to four (two on each side, second rib from the front and rear) to help stabilize and prevent movement. As well as, help with some of the weight between incremental lifts.

Once it is lifted, I will weld 1x1 tubing in the rib channels with at least a foot above and below the cuts. I have sheet steel and I made a metal break to produce the thin sheet angles to mimic the surface area of the original ribs for riveting the new sheet steel onto the ribs.

Oh, another important aspect is that I am leaving the first section above the driver's seat and door alone. It will not be lifted and the second section between ribs will be removed prior to the lift. I will finish the lift and then add reinforcements from rib to rib over the exposed area and cover with sheet steel to give it a nice aerodynamic flow.

I personally don't care for the look of lifting a truck nose bus when, it is lifted complete from front to back. It looks very unnatural and appears to create horrible drag. So, I will give it a nice air diverter look.

Now, as far as the lift, I have the full length rain edge above the windows. I plan to remove the screws and attach the top of the new sheet steel to the area under the drip edge and down to the first horizontal exterior rib on the body. It gives me roughly a 16 inch lift.

Should I predrill the holes in the sheet metal bigger than normal to allow for expansion in different seasons (Northern Minnesota temp sways of 100 degrees)?

Thanks
Thats pretty much what I did except my 1in tube butts up to the roof frame, mine has what I can best describe as a 2 in square tube Ibeem that runs the full length of the bus above the windows & then the tubes below the cuts go almost all the way to the floor.

One thing I'm sorry I did was I made the transition cap from lower to lifted portion out of fiberglass, If I could go back I would have had a metal shop make one for me.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:56 PM   #27
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While we are on the subject, I know Burlking has an international 3800 but, has anyone with a 3800 completed a lift?

If so, what should I expect for movement and flex in the roof?
I raised my 3800's roof 16". Not a huge lift, but there was absolutely not a single bit of flexing in my roof when it was cut free. I also used allthread to do my lift. Went up square and lined up pretty much perfect. But then again I have almost no rust on my bus at all so that could be why nothing sagged for flexed weird. Not sure if I got lucky or what. Pics in my build thread called "Somethin' Happened!"
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:10 PM   #28
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Excellent!
Thank you, 16 is a good lift.
It is about as much as I want to do.
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:22 PM   #29
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Slaughridge

Slaughridge,

Were the all thread bolts the only thing you used to do your lift?
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:42 PM   #30
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Here ya go
Thanks, and if you have ANY more, please post em up somewhere or PM them to me, I'm absorbing all I can before undertaking this now that summer is upon us.
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