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Old 05-19-2016, 04:19 PM   #61
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Rail

The rub rail is the seat rail inside?
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:22 PM   #62
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Nope, the rails on the outside that run from front to back in several elevations.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:31 PM   #63
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Oh ok, I've never known the correct name. So, I've been calling them the exterior ribs. I thought about them if full body replacement was selected, I could restore them, get others to select the best or add others for additional support.

I am lucky because the garage that did the service on my bus has another International gutted out in their bone yard. The engine and tranny are gone and it is just sitting there. I thought about offering the owner a hundred bucks for the rub rails.

A couple of my ribs are rusted through in spots. I would want to replace or replace those sections. I can weld and restore them if need be but, I would rather not just for safety and structure. Adding another 1 or 2 per side wouldn't hurt or look bad overall.

I plan to do a lift of the roof as well, if I were to replace the body panels I would just coordinate the lift and body panels. Replace the body panels, once it is buttoned up, do the lift, add the new body panels where the windows once were.

I have enough sheet metal to encircle the bus top section now, ordering the same to replace the bottom half would be a couple hundred bucks. Well worth it if, it came to it.

So, I don't know. I have so much work into the bus and it is low mileage, I don't want to scrap it just because of rust.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:32 PM   #64
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the rub rails are structural.. but you should be able to take them off to replace metal... if most of the rust is right under the windows then im thinking you would be able to CAREFULLY cut that skin say a 6 inch height of it out and then lay in new pieces.. remember to always overlap your metal in the direction the wind flows.. so if you took off the top 6 inches.. you would replace with a 7 inch height of it overlapping the bootom that you left on the outside by an inch.. so water would run off... just a thought anyway
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:40 PM   #65
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Chris,
That is the problem the window areas are fine. It is the bottom half of the exterior walls that are shot. From floor level down is pretty much rotten. The upper rub rails below the windows are also touchy at best.
I can shine light from the inside and see small pitting and openings behind the highest rib.

If I couldn't save the rub rails, I could replace with a 1/8th by 4" strips. I am betting that over the structural aspect.

Yes, I would have to start from the bottom back corner and work my way forward over lapping as I go. Not only top to bottom but back to front.

It is a mess so far but, if I did full replacement I could glue and screw new sheet metal to the body and probably have to remove the inside lower wall.
Replace it with something or more metal bands for interior structure.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:57 PM   #66
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actually you want to overlap front to back.. generally.. at least thats my thought.. so water tends to run off as you drive as opposed to being forced into the joints..

so you would you remove the rub rails then weld metal into them? or just try and find a bus like it and replace them.. ive seen the skirting below floor level rust but thats not nearly as structural for the bus... I havent seen the rails themselves rust out before though..
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:13 PM   #67
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Hahaha

Yes front to back, I was picturing the installation.
Starting in the back and overlapping as I go forward.

The rub rails, I could do either.
I could cut out the rusted hole sections and replace with fresh material and weld in.
Or, I could replacement all together.
Or, I could just use 1/8th" x 4" flat strips to replace the rails all together.
I believe the local metal supply store sells long (20x28 feet) thin flat bars for pretty cheap. A hundred bucks and I could have numerous single bands running front to rear or bending all the way to the rear of the skin.

I have 8 sheets of 4'x10' 18 gauge sheet metal that was intended for the lift and window covering.

If I replace the body panels, I would just measure a few dozen times and hang full sheet vertically from back to rear with a aerodynamic overlap. If I am going to replace the skin, I would also lower the skirts as well.

I have several file cabinets, desk sections of drawers and planning to make other larger storage boxes to mount under in time. I would like to extend the skirt lower to give it a more unique, couch style look.

What do you think?
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:20 PM   #68
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I cant speak for the percrntage of structural reinforcemen the rub rails give.. but part of the rigidity is the fact they are not flat.. the shape of them prevents flex and movement in more than one direction.. whereas a flat strip is going to have a harder time fighting inward / outward flex of the body... my own personal thought is esp if you are roof raising I want want all the inward / outward rigidity I could get on the walls..

im only going on what I THING would be the case pertaining to how much structure those rails provide.. theres enough metal there that I feel if they were not needed then the bus company would not have installed them. it may be a side impact safety thing... but I could also imagine them helping with "ballooning" movements..
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:45 PM   #69
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That is a damn good point.
That didn't occur to me.
Thank you.
I will have to stick to repairing them or replacing them.

Here are a couple of pics of my rub rails and exterior rust sections that are crumbling on the inside.

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Plus, who knows what type of damage I would do removing them.
Drilling rivets, grinding rivets, gentle as possible tends to go wrong with me.
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:07 PM   #70
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you say you have not removed the interior walls? I'd do that first and check the ribs out. If they are degraded to a point of needing replaced, I'd look for another bus that needs the trans/motor combo you have. That looks like it may have leaked inside too.....
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