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Old 05-11-2016, 04:57 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Post Floor Replacement

Hello All,

My next question is about the rusted, wavy, flimsy first floor panel.
The section below the Driver's seat to the stairway.
It is in pretty rough shape.

I have a 4'x10' 10g sheet of steel and I would like to remove and replace that first panel.

I would like to pull it up, add angle iron, tubing anything I need to reinforce that entire section before replacing it.

Is this a good idea?
Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:18 PM   #2
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Do you know that you don't need to start a different thread every time you move on to a new part of your project? Most people have one ongoing thread throughout their build.
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:35 PM   #3
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I did not, sorry.
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:06 PM   #4
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Post some pics of it if you can, the top and the bottom would be most helpful.

-Doc
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:23 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
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Pictures

Here we go.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

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These are the primary problem rust areas.

Any suggestions would he helpful.

Thanks
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:36 PM   #6
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I'll be glad to help a fellow Minnesotan out! we both got a model 3800 yours is new but floor looks the exact same, my drivers area actually had the least rust. wheel well section in the back was the worst for me. they are all about 9 1/2" c-channel pieces butted up next to each other and the riveted along the legs of the "C" other than that big piece for the drivers area. so i tore out the bad stuff and replaced it with square tubing over the two main beams of the chassis (with rubber padding in between the tubing and frame) then made a frame work with small angle iron in between the square tubing and laid 11Gauge metal on top. it worked great but you may find any easier way. So im assuming you could just do the same up front and then put that big sheet you got on top of the tubing. it is in between pages 9-12 in my build i believe if you want to check it out.


http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/92...tar-11151.html


Some quick pictures, more in the build.


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Old 05-11-2016, 06:41 PM   #7
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You're making some impressive progress.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:42 PM   #8
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Smile Minnesota

Hi Burl King,
I am glad to find another 3800 in the same region.
I have seen tons of flat nose bluebirds and the 3800's Ive seen have always been from the southern half of the country.

You knocked that floor work out of the park.
Good job.

The floor panels on my bus are huge. As wide as the bus and they appear to be 3 to 4 feet long sections. So we differ in that way but, I am follow your example and patch them up.

I had to ask because, I wanted to remove the lower interior wall section / chair rail but was told by several it was structural and to leave it.

So, I was worried if I popped a floor panel out it would end up being structural and my bus would fold in half. You did a very good job with your floor replacement and it will save me a lot of time and research.

Thank you.

I am assuming you are located in the cities or Iron range.

This evening I pulled 90% of the wiring from the control panel to the front and rear of the compartment. It was easy, the most time was removing the dead wires one at a time since, they were twisted together.

Another quick question;
Should, I focus on the floor and rust removal first or lift the roof?

Thanks,
DLJIII
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:04 PM   #9
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Do the floor first. When you raise the roof and add panels, it will be heavier to lift if you need structural replacement as bulking did. That is exactly what I have to do to my Thomas MVP ER.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:14 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
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That makes perfect sense.
Thank you,
To be honest, I have been very eager to start the lift.
Rather than doing rust removal.
Thanks
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