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Old 04-14-2004, 08:04 PM   #1
staggerlee917's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 37
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: International
Engine: International Loadstar
Rated Cap: 60

Just wondering if anyone removed the rubber flooring before starting thier conversion project. I am thinking about doing this to make it easier to put down linoleum in the kitchen area.

Thanks, Keith
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Old 04-14-2004, 09:14 PM   #2
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: CO
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HEY 917-

I would defineltey (SP?) pull up the old rubber. It's not too hard if you have a warm day (90+) , or a heat source of some kind. Not only will it give you a flat floor, it will let you see what shape the plywood is in!
Go for it & good luck!

"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits" - Albert Einstein
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Old 04-14-2004, 09:32 PM   #3
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: near flint michigan
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pulling up the rubber flooring sounds like a lot of it necessary?

The rubber floor was in excellent condition on my skoolie, so i just left it alone.

I put foamboard insulation on top of the rubber floor, followed by plywood, then carpet/tile.

The rubber flooring should help with sound deadening too.

One downside to leaving the rubber floor in is that my floor isnt square. It bows up slightly in the center.
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Old 04-14-2004, 11:41 PM   #4
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 448
I don't know for sure but I am just guessing that if water gets under the rubber you could have some problems. I would think it is more likely that water could get under there from the holes where the seats were attached. It could just be me though I always like to start with a clean slate. When we bought our house we gutted it down to the studs.
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:39 AM   #5
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Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A
Posts: 101
I also wanted to start with a solid foundation, so I ripped the rubber floor up.
I have a 1/16" steel floor in mine, so I wanted to see what rust damage there was.
Fortunately, there was not much rust and only thru in two small places less than 3/8" diameter, so after I cleaned, treated the rust and primed it with 2 part epoxy primer, I patched those and all the seat mount and screw holes with galvanized tin caps held down with butyl caulk.
There was a little caulk sticking out the sides of a few, but that was trimmed off with a wood chisel.
This made for a relatively flat and well sealed floor.
I have carpet everywhere except the bath where I used vinyl tile.
The vinyl is pretty flat with no padding, but is covered with a rug!
If I was going to use tile or sheet vinyl on a whole bus with a steel floor, I would probably install a subfloor or float out the seams with bondo or something to make it as flat as possible.
1976 International Wayne - ON THE ROAD!!
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