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Old 09-30-2016, 02:04 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: North CT
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Chassis: B600, 545 Allison Auto
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Framing the walls

Hi Guys
I am at 'the framing the walls' stage.
I am wanting to add 2x3 to the uprights from the floor to just above the window top.
Question is, do you leave the bolts and washers that hold the Windows in?and screw around them? Or do you go with longer bolts and use these holes?
And the sides are plated as well.
I am then adding insulation board between these battins, then covering.

So I am wondering what the best option is re this.
As usual I welcome all feedback.

Thank you.
Howard.
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:54 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Chassis: B600, 545 Allison Auto
Engine: Cummings Dimple Block 12Cyl.
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Hi Guys

I really could use some input please..

I have seen Youtube videos where they were just screwing directly into the steel pillar.
Are these special screws?
Do you need to pre drill the holes?

Thank you!
Howard
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:21 PM   #3
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Pics would help

I use Teks screws

for just about anything I need screwed into sheetmetal or steel.
If it's at a right angle, I'll add Simpson metal L brackets.


I also use Spax Washer Head screws if I'm screwing stud plates to walls...
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:40 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Chassis: B600, 545 Allison Auto
Engine: Cummings Dimple Block 12Cyl.
Rated Cap: 70
Hi milkmania

Many thanks!!

I will try and post a picture

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/member...ture14467.html

Re screwing into the steel - Do I need to pre drill it first?
And re the Windows and their mounting washer screws - do I leave these in?

Thank you!!
I have to get this done this weekend...

Cheers
Howard
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:53 PM   #5
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I can't answer anything about your windows... Mine are non-typical.
(Horizontal sliders)

As far as using the Teks self tapping screws... I don't pre-drill anything!
I start the screw (with nut driver bit on cordless drill) and if the steel is too thick and the self tapping screw gets dull, I grab another screw with fresh cutters on it... Rarely have to go to 3rd screw.
I save the dull screws and use them elsewhere, where I've drilled a hole with fresh screw.

Waste not, want not


Even the Spax washer screws are hardened and coated.... With enough pressure, they have a pretty aggressive point and will pierce the sheetmetal to get started. Was able to pierce floor sheetmetal. The torx head helps A LOT!
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Old 10-01-2016, 02:02 PM   #6
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
I know the fastening methods mentioned above will let my 275lb fat ass, do pull ups on my dual pocket door rails!

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/bu...oor-14708.html
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:28 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Hi Guys

I am still stuck on this -

Do I take the sheet metal off the walls first?
If so How as it has been spot welded very inch below the window.

If not, how can I quickly get around this as I am now 3 days behind and I only have until the end of the month.

Thank you
Howard
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:50 PM   #8
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It's going to be OK. Take a step back and enjoy some deep, relaxing breaths. I'm sure that part of the reason why your question hasn't been answered, is because the readers might not know a good answer. I can tell you that I dont know the direct answer to your question, but I can tell you how to find out. Take a drill bit and try to drill into the space somewhere between the screws in question. If it's really really hard to do, try taking the screws out and see what happens. Then you can decide for yourself which route is better, and let us know what you think. Trial and error is the best route with these kind of things in my experience. I feel your pain, but you gotta remember that this is all part of the fun and enriching journey that we have chosen to embark apon. Best of luck!
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:00 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Chassis: B600, 545 Allison Auto
Engine: Cummings Dimple Block 12Cyl.
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Hi foresterjon05@gmail

THANK YOU...
I am trying everything - but I am doing it on my own with no power - only battery tools and a limited budget - And against the clock...

I have been watching everything I can re this and I have seen a 3rd way I am going to try tomorrow.

I did try taking the window screws out - and the windows fell out... So I guess they need to stay there..

If I did not know how cold it was going to get here I would skip this stage and get on with my build. But it gets ******** freezing here..

Thank you again....
Howard
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Old 10-04-2016, 01:41 AM   #10
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If you just trying to get into the wall for adding insulation rip that sheet metal out. The question is adding insulation will it even make a difference to how cold it will be where you'll be at. Unless your spray foaming a thin roll of insulation is nothing. I assume all this insulating we see on line is for helping the air conditioner out. Its much easier to add BTU's than to take them out. Just frame it up if your in a hurry the way its easiest for you. Then in vest in a bigger heater for winter. Later when your not under the gun you can decide how to deal with it in an more efficient way. since it has wheels and drives I might recommend Yuma this winter. You'll need a ice machine for your drinks.
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