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Old 08-29-2019, 10:48 PM   #1
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Friggin door nix help

Howdy,
I removed the original swing open door because I simply detested it, as well as the steps. The main entrance will be via the door to the old lifet, which was sold.


I plan on framing the old door space up with 1.5x1.5x1/8" steel tube, covering the area over the steps with a 1/8" steel plate reinforced with angle steel to mount a passenger seat to.


As far as securing the 1.5x1.5 steel frame to the opening, I am using 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive and some steel screws. I am also considering spot welding the frame to the bus skin every foot or so. What do you all think?
Overkill, unnecessary, utter stupidity?


Also, I'll paint the steel with the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer before attaching. Anyone have an input if I should leave the side that will get the adhesive un-primed/bare metal? Will the primer screw up the adhesive's contact to the bus? Does that also include the bus paint? Should I sand it to metal where the adhesive goes?



Also planning on using this adhesive to seal all the former rail holes in the floor. Plan is to use those small metal disks for roofing with a little bit of that adhesive to secure them to the floor over each hole.
Thank you!!!

G0014641.jpgIMG_7756.jpg
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Old 08-31-2019, 01:42 AM   #2
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I love the shot with the stairs removed and the ominous "watch your step" sticker at the top of the 3 foot drop!
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Old 08-31-2019, 06:50 AM   #3
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3M 5200 is a good adhesive, but would want a good mechanical bond too.

If bonding to primer then the strength of the primer becomes the weak point. I would do bare metal and then prime over it once bonded.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:49 AM   #4
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Haha Native,, he has glass steps, just saw them in corning glass museum.

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Old 08-31-2019, 09:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post



I plan on framing the old door space up with 1.5x1.5x1/8" steel tube, covering the area over the steps with a 1/8" steel plate reinforced with angle steel to mount a passenger seat to.


As far as securing the 1.5x1.5 steel frame to the opening, I am using 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive and some steel screws. I am also considering spot welding the frame to the bus skin every foot or so. What do you all think?
Overkill, unnecessary, utter stupidity?
As a Master of Overkill on my own build, I'm hesitant to ever advise against adding bulk.......but if I read you right, you're asking about attaching 1.5" sq tube vertically to the existing door frame? My door frames are 2" sq. tube, as I would guess yours are....plenty strong enough on their own.

I bracketed and screwed 1.5" sq tube horizontally across the opening in 4 places, then welded those joints, then used tek screws to fasten the skin (originally a ceiling panel) to the crosspieces and the verticals....it's very solid.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:00 PM   #6
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I bought a 20' stick of 1.5"x1.5"x1/8" square tubing.


I could weld cross bars to the existing door frame, but seems like framing it with the same material would be better.

You think that's overkill/waste of steel?
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:08 PM   #7
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I don't think framing helps you with anything. I like PFL's construction better.. weld across. Put one cross piece at the height of your new floor pieces so that it can rest on top. Then you have the beginning of a storage compartment below.


Good luck, J
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:25 PM   #8
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Another thing; its September, so I have about a month or two before the temps start dropping into the 40s at night, and then to freezing and below soon after.


I have no intention of painting until Spring or Summer, unless I decide to drive down to the lowlands for a few days.


Anyway, I figure as long as the bus is sealed up, I can work fine in there with a kerosene heater running.

What I am concerned about is possible issues with welding and adhesion of adhesives.
Anyone done this in the cold?
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:30 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
I don't think framing helps you with anything. I like PFL's construction better.. weld across. Put one cross piece at the height of your new floor pieces so that it can rest on top. Then you have the beginning of a storage compartment below.


Good luck, J





Interesting idea. I guess framing the whole door would indeed be a waste of time, effort, and material. After all, the original was a swinging door. The skin I'm using to cover this opening is a sheet of 16 gauge steel, so that adds a lot to the strength.



I think I'll go the cross bar route.


Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2019, 08:26 PM   #10
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You are welcome, but it was not my idea . Plf showed the way.


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Old 09-05-2019, 01:02 AM   #11
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You are welcome, but it was not my idea . Plf showed the way.


Johan



Oh, but sir... thou didst continue the showing of the way, which makes thee a guide of skoolie love and guidance...
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