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Old 10-02-2016, 12:43 AM   #1
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Smile furring strips ok, but what type of wood ?

Hi.

I finally removed all rivets with a total of 6 40 grit sanding 5" discs attached to my angle grinder, this was faster that anything else I tried. Cleaned the inside and got rid of the old insulation and now the fun begins.

I was thinking on installing 1x1 furring strips to get more thickness for the injected insulation( total equal to a 2x4 would be ideal) that will come after and to be able to start attaching ceiling and walls but after looking around I have some questions :

Compression treated, fir, regular pine, oak ? what will be the best for moisture( in case of leak) and strength ?

Will the decision change if I installed on top of the existing ribs along side or across the ribs ?

Is it matter for adding strength to install them in a specific way ? ( I have read that the sheet metal originally installed on buses is part of the overall strength, that is my concern)

Metal studs could be a better option ?

An lastly, injected insulation to be installed in the winter ( pacific coast) is a bad idea ? moisture trap ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:14 AM   #2
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many ways to do it. i went with 2" of spray foam, i will now lay 1/2" foam board over that to keep the thermal transfer from the ribs at a minimum. im putting t&g on the ceiling.
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:55 AM   #3
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So 2 inch spray foam and then foam board on top to avoid heat transfer ?

is the heat transfer that big of a deal ?
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Old 10-02-2016, 02:27 PM   #4
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yes you should have a thermal break of some kind no mater what you use to insulate.
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Old 10-02-2016, 02:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepepito View Post
So 2 inch spray foam and then foam board on top to avoid heat transfer ?

is the heat transfer that big of a deal ?

Test it out...

Put up two pieces of polyiso on each side of a rib.
Put bus out in hot sunlight.
Feel the rib, it acts as a conductor and will store that heat or cold longer than a thin piece of sheetmetal.
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:32 PM   #6
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so let say 2 inch injected foam and then 1 or 2 inch of pink insulation on top, then whatever wood or paneling you want, so what about attaching the paneling or wood?

you go trough the insulation back to the wood, is that ok?

or do you still need to go wood on wood to install walls and ceiling using some kind of support board?

thanks.
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:45 AM   #7
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Rip a sheet or two of 3/4 to 1 inch plywood. Strong, dimensional, and less likely to split when you drive screwa through it. You can easily lap the ends of your strips together and glue/screw them together.
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Old 10-03-2016, 01:36 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepepito View Post
Hi.

I finally removed all rivets with a total of 6 40 grit sanding 5" discs attached to my angle grinder, this was faster that anything else I tried. Cleaned the inside and got rid of the old insulation and now the fun begins.

I was thinking on installing 1x1 furring strips to get more thickness for the injected insulation( total equal to a 2x4 would be ideal) that will come after and to be able to start attaching ceiling and walls but after looking around I have some questions :

Compression treated, fir, regular pine, oak ? what will be the best for moisture( in case of leak) and strength ?

Will the decision change if I installed on top of the existing ribs along side or across the ribs ?

Is it matter for adding strength to install them in a specific way ? ( I have read that the sheet metal originally installed on buses is part of the overall strength, that is my concern)

Metal studs could be a better option ?

An lastly, injected insulation to be installed in the winter ( pacific coast) is a bad idea ? moisture trap ?

Thanks.

DO NOT USE pressure treated lumber anywhere in an enclosed space, it is actually treated with a poison that does out gas. It is not terribly potent so in open air it is okay but in a closed space that can be airtight it can be bad.
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:40 PM   #9
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Thermal Block

So I found this :

Aerogel | Aerogel Insulation | Aerogel Price

I email and prices are very reasonable and is compressible so I could put it in between the steel rib and the plywood/wood strip to create a thermal break.

how does it sounds ? anyone have used this before ?

Thanks.
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