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03-05-2018, 07:41 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 4
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Galvanic corrosion on aluminum floor?
I’ve searched the forums for info on this subject with no luck. It appears my subfloor is aluminum and not steel! I’ve been so caught up in ripping up the plywood that it didn’t even occur to me that this could be the case. There are several holes, presumably due to galvanic corrosion with steel bolts. I was getting ready to use the ol’ rust-converter-rustoleum-paint technique, but now...what do I do? Fiberglass the holes? Epoxy?
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03-05-2018, 09:46 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbus
I’ve searched the forums for info on this subject with no luck. It appears my subfloor is aluminum and not steel! I’ve been so caught up in ripping up the plywood that it didn’t even occur to me that this could be the case. There are several holes, presumably due to galvanic corrosion with steel bolts. I was getting ready to use the ol’ rust-converter-rustoleum-paint technique, but now...what do I do? Fiberglass the holes? Epoxy?
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Interesting...how would the floor be connected to the bus structure? Not sure if dissimilar metals can be welded... Is it a gillie?
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03-06-2018, 12:43 AM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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So no magnet sticks to the floor? If anything other than wood I would be tempted to epoxy/fiberglass, after cleaning the floor of all loose scale and figure out what coating to put on, then plywood on top of foam board. It'll last a hundred years, if not, ten.
Crowns were aluminum bodied, but the floor was a thick marine-grade plywood, or so I have read (and by looking at a few too.)
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03-07-2018, 07:17 AM
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#4
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 4
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I’m not sure how it’s attached to the chassis, seems like it’s riveted? Confirmed that no magnet sticks to the floor. I’m also thinking fibreglass/epoxy.
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03-07-2018, 07:41 AM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 67
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Looks fairly ugly in your pic, how extensive is it? Unfortunately, when aluminum starts to corrode, it won't stop by covering it up with epoxy, or anything else. You must remove the corroded area completely, maybe with a hole saw? Then I would fill the hole with a plywood plug installed wet with epoxy.
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03-07-2018, 07:51 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbus
I’m not sure how it’s attached to the chassis, seems like it’s riveted? Confirmed that no magnet sticks to the floor. I’m also thinking fibreglass/epoxy.
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So what kind of bus you got? Not only do you need to remove the corroded area completely...if you can, you need to see if you possibly have some kinda electrical issues...that can cause problems...if it's typical road chemical stuff...maybe you could get some zinc blocks to prevent further corrosion...they use them in maritime industry...not totally sure it'd work...check with a maritime outfitter like West marine...
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03-07-2018, 08:01 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty
So what kind of bus you got? Not only do you need to remove the corroded area completely...if you can, you need to see if you possibly have some kinda electrical issues...that can cause problems...if it's typical road chemical stuff...maybe you could get some zinc blocks to prevent further corrosion...they use them in maritime industry...not totally sure it'd work...check with a maritime outfitter like West marine...
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Sacrificial anodes won't work here. They rely on a complete electrical circuit made by (usually salt) water connecting the anode to the rest of the structure.
When aluminum is used in this kind of structure it is usually isolated from the steel with insulation, often teflon.
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03-07-2018, 08:07 AM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Sacrificial anodes won't work here. They rely on a complete electrical circuit made by (usually salt) water connecting the anode to the rest of the structure.
When aluminum is used in this kind of structure it is usually isolated from the steel with insulation, often teflon.
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Thx...I really didn't know...also the Houston transit buses have to static strips...which is interesting and probably unrelated to the topic
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03-07-2018, 10:43 AM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 280
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
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If it were me I would cut the edges of the corrosion off and patch panel it with aluminum plate the thickness of the original floor cutting the patches as close to supports and overlapping seams wherever possible instead of mechanical fasteners I would use one of the many panel adhesives I have used Evercote Maxim with good success you will never"feel" the patches once insulated and floored probably not feel them under flooring as long as you don't try to install flooring direct to metal.
__________________
Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
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03-07-2018, 03:15 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 280
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
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The patches could be alumabrazed in but is probably not for the novice hang in 1 spot 2 seconds to long and a hole much worse than you had can appear as the parent material disappears in a puddle under the bus, panel adhesive works great no special skills needed.
__________________
Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
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03-07-2018, 05:06 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,973
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Be careful with the brazing idea if the floor was undercoated at one time or you have any body bushings within inches of the heated area.
If there is undercoating then it might be a good time to inspect it also for problem areas underneath that's not showing up inside.
Just cheek for combustibles on the underside if you go the torch route
Good luck
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03-07-2018, 05:08 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 171
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 40' Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126 7.2L
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I’d be looking for bad grounds for sure
I have seen DC cause severe corrosion in aluminum when a DC has to search for a ground back to the steel frame main battery ground
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