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Old 04-24-2018, 01:07 PM   #21
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by weboughtabus View Post
.
How's this?

Weight:
400 lb (181 kg), wet

Size:
Length 34.5 in (876.0 mm), width 22.9 in
(581.2 mm), height 20.3 in (514.7 mm)

Sound: 68 dB(A) at 10 ft (3 m), before installation,

That's for their 5kW unit.

https://powersuite.cummins.com/PS5/P...556.1524591800
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:08 PM   #22
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
I was thinking the stick on mat stuff too but there's more than enough room for even the 2" thick stuff. I also thinking the shiny reflective stuff for heat but I dunno if that's a good idea or not. Reflecting heat back at the engine... the radiator should handle it just fine. In the winter, it would be nice to have the (bus) engine heating the bed.
This is a concern of mine as well. What works for the desert in the summer isn't what you need in the mountains in the winter and I live in the mountains near the desert! Yesterday I started Mobi and used a laser thermometer to check the temperature all around the metal near the engine. I ran the engine for 45 min or so and checked it again and was surprised to see that there was hardly any temperature difference except for in one small section. I'm going to check that section for the insulation. The good stick on mat stuff is exensive and there are a LOT of sq ft to cover with a RE!!

I wonder if those foam squares that lock together would work either underneath stuff like the generator or on top of the engine. Maybe I could Velcro them on for winter? Considering something similar for the windows for winter vs summer, day vs night. I have thermal curtains and if I beefed them up with reflectix or foil backed XPS in the windows behind the curtains (reflective out in the summer, in in the winter with windows open spring and fall, it might be the best of both worlds. Seems like I would have to do something to protect the XPS rectangles tho so that they didn't get damaged putting them up and taking them down. Denim slip covers maybe with Velcro to hold them in place? Or spray glue on something like vinyl floor covering and furring strips around the edge like a frame to keep the corners square? I've also considered doing something permanent over the lower part which doesn't open anyway, and doing something changeable for only the upper part.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:09 PM   #23
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty View Post
Unless you blow a fuel line before the fire...
With or without insulation, a blown fuel line is going to be nasty at best. Stuck on the side of the road with an empty tank is about as good as it'll get. Downhill from there.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if you read what i wrote it had nothing to do with ENGINE noise.. but engine HEAT residual... and also Generator noise since bob talked about putting his genny in the engine bay....

-Christopher
I don't think residual heat is an issue either...how much ledge is back there? 2 feet? And a mattress is 7' long...8 to 12" deep...so a typical mattress will dissipate the heat quite easily...I'm sorry, my humor gets on folks nerves
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:14 PM   #25
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins View Post
I've also considered doing something permanent over the lower part which doesn't open anyway, and doing something changeable for only the upper part.
I wouldn't do that but it's up to you of course. I'm not keeping my bus windows (roof raise) but if I had stock windows, I wouldn't want to block half the view. It would look funny both inside and out.

Block them off for a week/month with cardboard and see if you can live with it before busting out the torch and welding sheet metal over them!
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
With or without insulation, a blown fuel line is going to be nasty at best. Stuck on the side of the road with an empty tank is about as good as it'll get. Downhill from there.
Yep...That's for sure
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:33 PM   #27
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Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Interesting. The spring is significantly bigger diameter than the bolt? It either has to be held in place top and bottom or it's going to slide on the bolt.

You could make your own easy enough assuming you can get your hands on a "normally open" spring. Maybe something like a porch swing spring. That would leave you room for a sizeable bolt still.

WeBoughtaBus,
By the way, ... I've sat on the back deck of my bus with the motor running. I thought the same about the motel bed. Seriously tho, the beds have a fair amount of shake to them. The bus didn't vibrate that much. I've no idea about the frequency or anything else. It's been quite awhile since I've seen one of those beds.
the spring is fairly heavy and the rubber isolators have an indentation where the spring sits.. and yeah the spring is much larger diameter than the bolt ..
-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2018, 02:12 PM   #28
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 329
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Corbeil
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Ford PowerStroke Diesel 6.0
Rated Cap: GVWR 11,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
How's this?

Weight:
400 lb (181 kg), wet

Size:
Length 34.5 in (876.0 mm), width 22.9 in
(581.2 mm), height 20.3 in (514.7 mm)

Sound: 68 dB(A) at 10 ft (3 m), before installation,

That's for their 5kW unit.

https://powersuite.cummins.com/PS5/P...556.1524591800
That seems like a much more feasible setup to work with. Especially factoring in less modifications. I'd imagine the shroud it comes in has some noise dampening properties, but you could probably beef those up and maybe add a better muffler to improve things further. And the fact that it weighs about a third of what the other does is pretty critical.
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Old 04-24-2018, 05:02 PM   #29
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I saw a you tube vid. on making generators quieter. Seems like someone used the reflecting angle idea, and it worked pretty good. He may have limited his test to units on concrete, but I remember the sound level was reduced quite a bit.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:09 AM   #30
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by weboughtabus View Post
That seems like a much more feasible setup to work with. Especially factoring in less modifications. I'd imagine the shroud it comes in has some noise dampening properties, but you could probably beef those up and maybe add a better muffler to improve things further.
Hmm, what if you were to put a Y pipe in the bus exhaust upstream of the muffler? Being that it's a 4", 5", 6" (???) exhaust, it certainly isn't going to restrict the genny AT ALL. Could it quiet the genny? Hmmm....

Quote:
And the fact that it weighs about a third of what the other does is pretty critical.
Weight isn't a good thing but I'm sitting at 20,600 lbs with a GVWR at 33,000. I've got a LONG way to go.

Wait, you're right. The first was a 10k unit and that was a 5k unit. Two of them would be lighter than the one. I didn't read thru the specs much. The 10k was 120, 204, and 240 VAC. I don't know if the 5k did all that. Without a dryer, I don't need 204 or 240. Even my MIG is only 120V/20A and it'll run on 120V/15A.

Is the weight difference the 3 phase? If nothing else, the 10k should be "lighter" because it's a single controller, single cabinet, etc. vs. 2 of the 5ks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1olfart View Post
I saw a you tube vid. on making generators quieter. Seems like someone used the reflecting angle idea, and it worked pretty good. He may have limited his test to units on concrete, but I remember the sound level was reduced quite a bit.
Haven't seen your video but I'm guessing it depends on how you define quieter. If I have 3 foot thick walls of sound deadening foam and everything is directed out of my window straight at you parked next to me, I won't hear a thing. Sucks to be you but it's quieter in here for me. Just thinking the directional... if the sound is being redirected (instead of absorbed), it's louder somewhere else but quieter in another.

I don't know the specs but all of the noise specs include a distance from source, at sea level, humidity level, etc. Change those and it will be "quieter".
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