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Old 04-24-2018, 09:21 AM   #1
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Genny sound deadening...

Instead of jacking Twigg's thread, thought I'd start a new one...

What have you kids done about quieting your genny's? I think I might have room in the engine compartment for one. That got me thinking about trying to quiet the bus engine as well (RE). Has anyone considered using this?

Don't get too hung up on the exact link. It was a 3 second search and was fairly cheap on price. I've no idea how temp resistant it is. Use some kind of spray-on barnacle spit (glue) and stick it directly to the metal inside the engine bay. Frame over the bench for the bed... hmm, no reason I couldn't foam the inside of the bus or both outside and inside.

I tried to quiet jenny once (the ex) and it cost a $hit load more than $36. Well worth the money it cost but I'm hoping a little cheaper this time.



If you guys have tried anything else, post it even if it didn't work. Save someone from making the same mistake.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:48 AM   #2
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im using a hondas eu2000i which is already really quiet.. im thinking if you have a noisy unit like an ONAN diesel or such you could Dynamat or such the area it is in... dynamat (and similar less pricey alternatives) does really good esp for the fact it isnt super thick..
-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:05 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im using a hondas eu2000i which is already really quiet.. im thinking if you have a noisy unit like an ONAN diesel or such you could Dynamat or such the area it is in... dynamat (and similar less pricey alternatives) does really good esp for the fact it isnt super thick..
-Christopher
I was thinking the stick on mat stuff too but there's more than enough room for even the 2" thick stuff. I also thinking the shiny reflective stuff for heat but I dunno if that's a good idea or not. Reflecting heat back at the engine... the radiator should handle it just fine. In the winter, it would be nice to have the (bus) engine heating the bed.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:24 AM   #4
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thats always been a question ive wondered about for those putting the bed above the engine on an RE is how hot is the residual engine heat in summer when trying to sleep..

I also am not sure id put any generator right below the bed.. not only is there sound propagating in the air but also being resonated through the framework and such. unless you are heavily isolating the genset from the frame of the bus somehow..
-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:30 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
thats always been a question ive wondered about for those putting the bed above the engine on an RE is how hot is the residual engine heat in summer when trying to sleep..

I also am not sure id put any generator right below the bed.. not only is there sound propagating in the air but also being resonated through the framework and such. unless you are heavily isolating the genset from the frame of the bus somehow..
-Christopher
Can't forget the vibration being transferred through the frame. Though I've seen a motel or two where you could pay for that sort of thing.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:50 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
thats always been a question ive wondered about for those putting the bed above the engine on an RE is how hot is the residual engine heat in summer when trying to sleep..

I also am not sure id put any generator right below the bed.. not only is there sound propagating in the air but also being resonated through the framework and such. unless you are heavily isolating the genset from the frame of the bus somehow..
-Christopher
How much sleep you gonna mix with your driving? And there was a row of seats back there...back to sleeping and driving...that always created quite the adventure for me...admittedly I've never driven a skoolie
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:52 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Instead of jacking Twigg's thread, thought I'd start a new one...

What have you kids done about quieting your genny's? I think I might have room in the engine compartment for one. That got me thinking about trying to quiet the bus engine as well (RE). Has anyone considered using this?

Don't get too hung up on the exact link. It was a 3 second search and was fairly cheap on price. I've no idea how temp resistant it is. Use some kind of spray-on barnacle spit (glue) and stick it directly to the metal inside the engine bay. Frame over the bench for the bed... hmm, no reason I couldn't foam the inside of the bus or both outside and inside.

I tried to quiet jenny once (the ex) and it cost a $hit load more than $36. Well worth the money it cost but I'm hoping a little cheaper this time.



If you guys have tried anything else, post it even if it didn't work. Save someone from making the same mistake.
There is a genny built for tractor trucks...they are fairly quiet
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:55 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Instead of jacking Twigg's thread, thought I'd start a new one...

What have you kids done about quieting your genny's? I think I might have room in the engine compartment for one. That got me thinking about trying to quiet the bus engine as well (RE). Has anyone considered using this?

Don't get too hung up on the exact link. It was a 3 second search and was fairly cheap on price. I've no idea how temp resistant it is. Use some kind of spray-on barnacle spit (glue) and stick it directly to the metal inside the engine bay. Frame over the bench for the bed... hmm, no reason I couldn't foam the inside of the bus or both outside and inside.

I tried to quiet jenny once (the ex) and it cost a $hit load more than $36. Well worth the money it cost but I'm hoping a little cheaper this time.



If you guys have tried anything else, post it even if it didn't work. Save someone from making the same mistake.
I don't think it's waterproof or fireproof...
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:59 AM   #9
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thats always been a question ive wondered about for those putting the bed above the engine on an RE is how hot is the residual engine heat in summer when trying to sleep..
In your case it would make a difference. In the RV setting not as much. You drive until you sleep and repeat whereas RVing I could be staying put for a month.

It would probably cool off in a few hours anyway.

Quote:
I also am not sure id put any generator right below the bed.. not only is there sound propagating in the air but also being resonated through the framework and such. unless you are heavily isolating the genset from the frame of the bus somehow..
-Christopher
I would want to put some heavy rubber bushings between the two. Not literally hockey pucks but you get the idea. Buy some cheap motor mounts and use those.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:07 AM   #10
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I don't think it's waterproof or fireproof...
Waterproof would be good but fireproof isn't needed. If the engine is on fire, I've got bigger problems to worry about. As long as it isn't starting a fire... and again I think there's enough room in there. Enough to avoid direct contact anyway.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:31 AM   #11
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In your case it would make a difference. In the RV setting not as much. You drive until you sleep and repeat whereas RVing I could be staying put for a month.

It would probably cool off in a few hours anyway.

I would want to put some heavy rubber bushings between the two. Not literally hockey pucks but you get the idea. Buy some cheap motor mounts and use those.

true you are right im thinking daily vs weekly or monthly motion of the bus..

look into A/C compressor spring mounts.. we used them for rooftop units on buildings.. (or make your own).. they pretty much consisted of donut shape rubber isolators on the pad and the compressor foot and a spring in between the 2 rubber parts.. a bolt went through the center with a locking nut so as you never fully tightened it down. the spring could flex. as long as the isolators have an indenation in them, the spring stays centered and wont touch the bolt the vibration was greatly reduced.

-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:32 AM   #12
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How much sleep you gonna mix with your driving? And there was a row of seats back there...back to sleeping and driving...that always created quite the adventure for me...admittedly I've never driven a skoolie
if you read what i wrote it had nothing to do with ENGINE noise.. but engine HEAT residual... and also Generator noise since bob talked about putting his genny in the engine bay....

-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:47 AM   #13
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true you are right im thinking daily vs weekly or monthly motion of the bus..

look into A/C compressor spring mounts.. we used them for rooftop units on buildings.. (or make your own).. they pretty much consisted of donut shape rubber isolators on the pad and the compressor foot and a spring in between the 2 rubber parts.. a bolt went through the center with a locking nut so as you never fully tightened it down. the spring could flex. as long as the isolators have an indenation in them, the spring stays centered and wont touch the bolt the vibration was greatly reduced.

-Christopher
Interesting. The spring is significantly bigger diameter than the bolt? It either has to be held in place top and bottom or it's going to slide on the bolt.

You could make your own easy enough assuming you can get your hands on a "normally open" spring. Maybe something like a porch swing spring. That would leave you room for a sizeable bolt still.

WeBoughtaBus,
By the way, ... I've sat on the back deck of my bus with the motor running. I thought the same about the motel bed. Seriously tho, the beds have a fair amount of shake to them. The bus didn't vibrate that much. I've no idea about the frequency or anything else. It's been quite awhile since I've seen one of those beds.
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:27 PM   #14
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The foam stuff pictured earlier in this thread won't do what you want. It is designed to prevent REFLECTED sound, not to BLOCK sound. The foam is what you use in a recording studio so the microphone 'hears' only the musician, rather than the musician plus the sound reflected off the wall.

To BLOCK sound you need mass. They make a nifty sound-blocking rubber mat that you can sandwich in your wall (it's for houses). Might help here. I can't find the link, though I do see a lot of automotive products like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK...&pd_rd_w=yBfre
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:39 PM   #15
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The foam stuff pictured earlier in this thread won't do what you want. It is designed to prevent REFLECTED sound, not to BLOCK sound. The foam is what you use in a recording studio so the microphone 'hears' only the musician, rather than the musician plus the sound reflected off the wall.
Yeah, I was wondering about that.

Also wondering if noise cancelation could be used. I would think the sound of a genny would be fairly "simple".
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:41 PM   #16
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https://baltimore.craigslist.org/hvo...529507988.html

$3k for a 10kW genny isn't too bad a price, right? More than I'd ever need tho. Was curios about the engine dimensions.
  • Model: DN4M / LP4W / LP460
  • Type: Four cylinder, four cycle, liquid cooled diesel
  • Bore/Stroke: 3.38/3.12 in. (86/80 mm)
  • Displacement: 113.5 cu. in. (1.8 liters)
  • Horsepower Rating: 24.1 BHP 1800 rpm
  • Compression Ratio: 18.5:1
  • Length: 24.56 in. (623.82 mm)
  • Width: 17.77 in. (451.4 mm)
  • Height: 20.57 in. (522.5 mm)
  • Weight: 305 lbs. (138.4 kg)
  • Shipping Weight: 375 lbs
  • Rotation - looking at flywheel: Counterclockwise
  • Mean Piston Speed (1800 RPM): 954 ft/min (288 m/min)
  • Number of Flywheel Ring Gear Teeth: 96
  • Idle Speed: 1745 RPM
  • Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
  • Lubrication System Capacity: 5.9 qts (5.6 liters)
  • Coolant System Capacity (engine only): 0.79 gal (2.99 liters)
  • Oil Pressure ( 1800 RPM): 36 psi (248 kPa)
  • Oil Pressure Relief Valve Setting: 45-59 psi (310-407 kPa)
  • Capacity Between Dipstick Marks: 38.4 oz (1.2 liters)
  • Oil Filter Capacity: 8.5 oz (0.25 liters)
  • Starter: (Optional) 24 VDC - 3.2 kw
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:46 PM   #17
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Jeez, that looks like a home standby generator. Based on the Manual I just found, it appears that it's certainly sized that way. I'd love to see this get shoehorned into someone's build, though.

Dimensions LWH (in) 62 x 32 x 37 (Cube:41 ft3)
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:50 PM   #18
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Dimensions LWH (in) 62 x 32 x 37 (Cube:41 ft3)
That's the whole thing including the cabinet. You're going to want the controller and gauges inside the bus anyway.Engine size is MUCH smaller. This will definitely fit:

Length: 24.56 in. (623.82 mm)
Width: 17.77 in. (451.4 mm)
Height: 20.57 in. (522.5 mm)

I dunno how much more is on the output shaft tho.
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Old 04-24-2018, 12:53 PM   #19
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That's the whole thing including the cabinet. Engine size is MUCH smaller. This will definitely fit:

Length: 24.56 in. (623.82 mm)
Width: 17.77 in. (451.4 mm)
Height: 20.57 in. (522.5 mm)

I dunno how much more is on the output shaft tho.
That's true, but you're definitely going to have to make some space for mounting and the generator head and whatever control electronics would go with it. I guess if you could make a run out to visit with your tape measure you could get an idea of the minimum amount of room you'd need.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:02 PM   #20
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Waterproof would be good but fireproof isn't needed. If the engine is on fire, I've got bigger problems to worry about. As long as it isn't starting a fire... and again I think there's enough room in there. Enough to avoid direct contact anyway.
Unless you blow a fuel line before the fire...
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