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Old 08-21-2019, 08:40 PM   #1
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Getting ready to reseal the seams in my roof

The dry season has been interupted by a day of rain here on the Oregon Coast, the first real rain since before I started removing my ceiling. So I've been carefully inspecting the whole interior, looking for wet spots.. Only 3 out of the 4 windows I expected to see leaking actually leaked today. Recaulking windows is getting near the top of my to do list.

What I did not expect to see was small quantities of water seeping from a few rivet holes in most of the ten or so roof supports I looked closely at. So I think I'll start on the roof seams tomorrow because the rain appears to have stopped now.

I'm open to suggestions from people who have resealed their roof, but unless I come across a better idea, I will attack the old seam sealer with the same brush in my angle grinder that I used on the rust and seam sealer on the floor.

I have 2 tubes of Dynatron 570 left over from doing the seams in the floor. As far as I can tell 570 is the white version of 550. I don't think 2 tubes will be enough for the whole roof, but will be a good start, and give me a good idea of how many more tubes of Dynatron I'll need.

Thanks for reading. Comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:18 PM   #2
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My seam was leaking as well. I wire-wheeled the seam, primed it, added more rivets, and then sealed with Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. Check out my build thread for what worked for me (on a van cutaway short bus).

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Old 08-21-2019, 09:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
The dry season has been interupted by a day of rain here on the Oregon Coast, the first real rain since before I started removing my ceiling. So I've been carefully inspecting the whole interior, looking for wet spots.. Only 3 out of the 4 windows I expected to see leaking actually leaked today. Recaulking windows is getting near the top of my to do list.

What I did not expect to see was small quantities of water seeping from a few rivet holes in most of the ten or so roof supports I looked closely at. So I think I'll start on the roof seams tomorrow because the rain appears to have stopped now.

I'm open to suggestions from people who have resealed their roof, but unless I come across a better idea, I will attack the old seam sealer with the same brush in my angle grinder that I used on the rust and seam sealer on the floor.

I have 2 tubes of Dynatron 570 left over from doing the seams in the floor. As far as I can tell 570 is the white version of 550. I don't think 2 tubes will be enough for the whole roof, but will be a good start, and give me a good idea of how many more tubes of Dynatron I'll need.

Thanks for reading. Comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
sounds like a good plan to me.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:28 PM   #4
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@farok, thanks for the suggestion. Is your roof flat? Mine's not so I don't think self-leveling any kind of caulk is what I need on my curved roof. I had no idea there were so many different caulks out there, but I'm learning.

I do have one tube of non-sag Dicor, but I bought that specifically for applying two 16 gauge patches to the holes where the emergency hatches currently rest. That project is upcoming soon. One more duck to get in the row first.

And I have a dozen tubes of Sikaflex 1A for recaulking the windows. Another big job to finish before the rainy season hits.

Most recently I bought 4 tubes Dynatron 570 Seam Sealer before I did the floor, planning on using any leftovers to start on the roof seams, and it took exactly 2 tubes to do the floor. I'm not sure how much it will take to do the roof seams. There are fewer seams in the roof than there are in the floor, but they look a little wider and have a larger bead of caulking, so it may take nore than 2 tubes for the roof.

@ECCB, thanks for the encouragement. I appreciate that.
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:55 AM   #5
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Scrub and scuff your roof with a tri-sodium phosphate solution, rinse, and allow to dry. Apply Henry's Tropi-Cool paint per manufacturers recommendation, i.e. thick and quick.

Do things like use a small wire brush around the rivets and seams while you're doing your wash.

The stuff is a seamless silicon rubber roof on top of your bus. Your rivets and seams won't leak, hopefully, for at least ten years.
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Old 08-22-2019, 06:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
The dry season has been interupted by a day of rain here on the Oregon Coast, the first real rain since before I started removing my ceiling. So I've been carefully inspecting the whole interior, looking for wet spots.. Only 3 out of the 4 windows I expected to see leaking actually leaked today. Recaulking windows is getting near the top of my to do list.

What I did not expect to see was small quantities of water seeping from a few rivet holes in most of the ten or so roof supports I looked closely at. So I think I'll start on the roof seams tomorrow because the rain appears to have stopped now.

I'm open to suggestions from people who have resealed their roof, but unless I come across a better idea, I will attack the old seam sealer with the same brush in my angle grinder that I used on the rust and seam sealer on the floor.

I have 2 tubes of Dynatron 570 left over from doing the seams in the floor. As far as I can tell 570 is the white version of 550. I don't think 2 tubes will be enough for the whole roof, but will be a good start, and give me a good idea of how many more tubes of Dynatron I'll need.

Thanks for reading. Comments and suggestions will be appreciated.
My bus was originally leaking through many of the roof seams. A previous school system owner had attempted a fix by slopping something like Dycor sealant along the left side of each seam. In a number of places this stuff had hardened and shrunk and formed little holes that water was getting through.

It was still firmly attached to the roof, though, so I just ran my Dynatron-550 seams over the old sealant without bothering to remove it. I cleaned the seams thoroughly first, then scuffed them with sandpaper, masked off each side of the seam and smeared on the 'tron. They're kind of rough-looking since I didn't know about using mineral spirits, but I'm going to be putting tropicool on which will cover them up anyway. They are leak-free now.

Since my windows are black, I was actually hoping to find black Dynatron (not the '70s superhero) which I'm guessing at some point in the distant past was Dynatron-560? Doesn't seem to exist any more.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:25 AM   #7
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My bus is a Collins, which has more of a flat profile than most. The self-leveling caulk doesn't run much as long as the roof is close to flat where applied. They do make the non-self leveling stuff, but I suspect the leveling stuff got more into the cracks, as I didn't actually pry up the seam. Now, it's covered with an elastomeric paint, and was leak free before that, so I've got high hopes that the issue is resolved for the foreseeable future (until the next coat of elastomeric paint).

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Old 08-22-2019, 10:33 AM   #8
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Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
Thanks to everyone who posted their suggestions and experiences. I appreciate that. The clouds are pretty much gone already.

It looks like it's going to be a nice day today, and there's more sun in the 10 day forecast, with no significant chance of rain through the whole time period.

So in a little while I intend to get up on the roof with my angle grinder, attack a seam just to see what happens, and then take it from there.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:52 AM   #9
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I didn't grind away the old caulk - I spent a day with a pack or razor blades and cut it away. Most of the old caulk was gone and the roof leaked a lot - the caulk that was left was mostly inside the seams and I needed the blades to get it out. I used Henry's clear caulk on all the seams (but not the individual rivets) and had only one leak when I finished. I hit the rivets near the leak when it dried out again, and I was leak-free. Eventually, I'm going to use the Tropicool paint, but I'm having no issues right now (except for a couple leaks I caused when I replaced the hatches).
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:14 AM   #10
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Join Date: Jul 2016
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Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
Thanks for relating your experience. My case is different. My bus does not leak a lot, just very, very slightly, but it appears to be leaking in quite a few places. The seam sealer that's there is solid and looks in good shape, but it's 25 years old, and so I assume it's just starting to leak. There's no rust, water stains or anything on the inside of the roof that would contradict that opinion.

So I intend to remove all the old seam sealer before replacing it with new Dynatron. What else I end up doing depends on how much paint comes off too. I have enough Rust-Oleum primer and paint to do every seam. I do want to put elastomeric paint on the roof, but there's so much to do before the rainy season that I probably won't get that done this year before the rainy starts.
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