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Old 10-05-2017, 09:52 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mainland Mexico
Posts: 123
Year: 2006
Chassis: IC bus
Engine: VT365
Rated Cap: 35C24A
Gutting & panelling doubts

Now that I have my bus, I am realizing that how I choose to gut and panel the bus is not so cut and dry. It is a newer 6-window bus, 2006 IC.

1) The lower wall panel... the one with the litttle ledge where the seats bolt to on the sides. I had assumed that I would be paneling floor to window but now that I see it, it seems convenient to have that ledge to bolt furniture to... any opinions? I was planning to spray foam. Will I be able to get behind them well enough to insulate without removing them?

2) The back wall panel. I have a pretty heavy metal panelling along the back wall which runs floor to cieling and extends forward around the curved back corners of the bus. It moulds around the back windows. What are people doing about that back panel? Can it be removed to insulate behind it? Is it thick enough to put back? Or how are people panelling around the curved corners and around the back windows? What is the norm?
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:10 PM   #2
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mainland Mexico
Posts: 123
Year: 2006
Chassis: IC bus
Engine: VT365
Rated Cap: 35C24A
Still hoping for some replies on the wall panelling choices.
Also,
3) wondering what people do to keep the floors waterproof. I am planning to use luxury vinyl plank flooring that claims to be waterproof but what about where the flooring meets the wall? What can be done to keep water from getting in on the edge?
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:26 PM   #3
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
1) bolt away to that rail, just don't remove as is structural. My bus has horizontal 2x4's to screw everything to, but you loose a few inches of width.

2 Bendy Board

wall copy.jpg
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:26 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 4,570
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
The first thing I would do is avoid flooding the bus... Don't hose the inside out the way that many schools do.

Seal any roof or window leaks.

"Waterproofing" the floor, from the top, should not be needed. Make sure you use a flooring appreciate for bathroom applications in the bathroom.

Look at how our homes and conventional RV's are built. Framing members are topped with plywood then flooring is installed on top of the plywood.
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Old 10-08-2017, 08:22 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mainland Mexico
Posts: 123
Year: 2006
Chassis: IC bus
Engine: VT365
Rated Cap: 35C24A
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
The first thing I would do is avoid flooding the bus... Don't hose the inside out the way that many schools do.

Seal any roof or window leaks.

"Waterproofing" the floor, from the top, should not be needed. Make sure you use a flooring appreciate for bathroom applications in the bathroom.

Look at how our homes and conventional RV's are built. Framing members are topped with plywood then flooring is installed on top of the plywood.
I was thinking more of the occasion spill on a bus parked on unlevel ground getting to the edge and under. I have a 2 year olf on board.. And I spill a thing or 2 myself on occasion.
What do you mean by flooring appreciate for bathroom applications?
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Old 10-09-2017, 11:24 AM   #6
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 4,570
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
The material s we are building with will tolerate SOME moisture. The occasional kitchen spill is not going to be a serious issue as long as it is cleaned up.

When you are shopping for bathroom flooring check with the manufacturer to make sure that the material is suitable for damp locations. Some laminate flooring is not suitable for this application.
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