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Old 08-04-2016, 10:30 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 28
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 5.9 Diesel Cummins
Gutting the interior roof vs. leaving it

Hello! Just picked up our 1997 Blue Bird and the interior ceiling is in really good shape.

Obviously i'm going to rip out the floor and the walls below the windows as well as the panels directly above the windows, but I'm curious how many people go ahead and rip out the curved ceiling as well? What are the advantages (as obviously the disadvantage of the labor and the refinishing)? We are planning on using the bus for camping in the Spring and summer (and a little bit of the Fall) months and while obviously the need for temp control is great, i wasn't sure if the effort was necessary?

Obviously anything mounted/ installed into the roof becomes more difficult if you are messing with an already finished ceiling. But I did;'t know if that was easy to work around. Also, if I end up doing solar panels on the roof, i figured I could mount brackets on the side of the bus and bring bars across.

What are the thoughts of people either way? Your insight is VERY much appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:05 AM   #2
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The general consensus of thought is that if you are just using it for camping then it's really not worth the time and effort to take down the ceiling and replace it. But if you were ever going to live in it full time then it is highly recommended that the ceiling is removed and new insulation is added. Also this gives you the ability to see where any roof leaks may be occurring.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:10 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Is the encouragement for gutting it in you're planning on living in it mostly because the insulation would be better "blown" in vs. what's already in there?
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:12 PM   #4
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WHat's in there is garbage. And metal makes a horrible headliner for thermal efficiency.
Only way I'd leave it in is if its going to be used as a work van.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:23 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by lanegordon View Post
Is the encouragement for gutting it in you're planning on living in it mostly because the insulation would be better "blown" in vs. what's already in there?
Evidently everyone who's ever revealed the original fiberglass insulation has gone "EWWWWW!". Keep that in mind also.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:54 PM   #6
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Evidently everyone who's ever revealed the original fiberglass insulation has gone "EWWWWW!". Keep that in mind also.
gotta get the moisture and mold out and not give them a place to hide in the future. Even if its bone dry up there and immaculate- its still a tin can with a steel ceiling. Not very cozy.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:38 PM   #7
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
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If we could get a good enough seal to pull vacuum....
Why couldn't we incorporate the technology that Yeti uses on their stainless steel mugs/glasses?



Just spit ballin' here, don't shoot the messenger
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:33 PM   #8
Skoolie
 
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Year: 1998
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Chassis: ford e350
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke
I am leaving it as is. I really like the structural integrity of the roof as it is. The only thing better would be to pull the insulation out . Reinstall and river the roof panels back in and blow expanding foam density 2 in.

If you make cabinets above the windows for closing and bedding then that will add insulation as well.

We plan to install solar over the whole roof. By now solar is cheaper then expanding foam insulation. And it shouldbe good enough for the summer. I will put a sheet of 4 ft wide polyiso 1" thick on top of the roof and below the solar. We will see how it does in the winter.

Later J
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
I am leaving it as is. I really like the structural integrity of the roof as it is. The only thing better would be to pull the insulation out . Reinstall and river the roof panels back in and blow expanding foam density 2 in.

If you make cabinets above the windows for closing and bedding then that will add insulation as well.

We plan to install solar over the whole roof. By now solar is cheaper then expanding foam insulation. And it shouldbe good enough for the summer. I will put a sheet of 4 ft wide polyiso 1" thick on top of the roof and below the solar. We will see how it does in the winter.

Later J

I have taken a heavy 2" winch strap to my top eyelets, and taken it to my bottom eyelets and cranked down hard on them! You can twang the strap like a banjo string!!!!

Popped it loose and watched for deflection... Less than 1/8 inch deflection!
And that's just in one location/sq. ft.

With that test, I'd have no problem feeling comfortable putting anything on my roof! Or suspending from my ceiling.
In my case... The military used the eyelets to strap down cargo nets.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:20 PM   #10
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Engine: 7.3 powerstroke
yea. The air force knows all about structural integrity. may be they even beefed your bus up left and right for it to pass mil spec?
For mine being aluminum it is all about profiles and design to get the best strength out of the weight.
Accidents are hard to model and repeat. But I have rather two layers of metal in a roll over then one.
I agree on the tin can effect, may be some wall carpets can help.
If I ever decide to improve on insulation and strength I will be taking the inner skin of , removing old insulation, get 2 component polyurethane insulation kit and put the inner metal sheet back in with an added nylon washer between the sheet and the framing ( cold bridge ) . With every set of fasteners I would spray a layer of foam in between so that everything bonds together.

later J
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