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01-09-2007, 09:26 PM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Rossland BC, Canada
Posts: 433
Year: 1985
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: 366 propane
Rated Cap: 56
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We used wood pannelling. It has a design already on it, so no painting nessisary and it was about $17 for a 4 by 8' sheet. So the price was great. We looked at other materials, but the price was right with this, and it did not require any additional work to get it finished. There is not texture or indents in it the way traditional pannelling has either, so we could paint it later if we chose.
-Richard
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12-23-2017, 09:59 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I'm wondering if a subfloor of 1" hard foam insulation glued to the metal floor with a vapor barrier on top and then just snap together laminate flooring on top of the foam creating a floating floor would be a viable option? No nails or securing devices to interfere with heating strips.
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12-23-2017, 10:07 PM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I'm wondering if a subfloor of 1" hard foam insulation glued to the metal floor with a vapor barrier on top and then just snap together laminate flooring on top of the foam creating a floating floor would be a viable option? No nails or securing devices to interfere with heating strips.
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Almost ...
I would use 1 1/2" for the extra insulation, but that's me.
You don't need the vapor barrier, the steel floor does that job. You do need a sub-floor on top of the insulation, before the laminate. Even the good foam board only has a compression strength of 25 lb per sq in, so you need to spread the load, and have something to fix other items to. Three quarter inch plywood is best, five eigths will do. Then put the laminate on top.
You don't have to screw it down although some construction adhesive between the layers will stabilize the floor and help prevent squeaks.
Caulk around the edges to prevent spills and condensation running under the floor.
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12-23-2017, 10:15 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Almost ...
I would use 1 1/2" for the extra insulation, but that's me.
You don't need the vapor barrier, the steel floor does that job. You do need a sub-floor on top of the insulation, before the laminate. Even the good foam board only has a compression strength of 25 lb per sq in, so you need to spread the load, and have something to fix other items to. Three quarter inch plywood is best, five eigths will do. Then put the laminate on top.
You don't have to screw it down although some construction adhesive between the layers will stabilize the floor and help prevent squeaks.
Caulk around the edges to prevent spills and condensation running under the floor.
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I was referring to the foam/vapor barrier that the laminate calls for. The only reason I used 1" as an example was to reduce head room issues. As short as I am I could go 2" and still be safe. While the foam board has only a 25#psi how often do you have something that puts more than 25#psi on the floor, keeping in mind the compression strength of the added laminate floor. I'm always looking for ways to save weight.
Securing other things to the floor does raise thought.
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12-23-2017, 11:32 PM
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#25
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: MIAMI, FLA USA
Posts: 19
Year: 1999
Coachwork: 34 foot blue bird
Engine: CUMMINS 5. 9
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I used the vinyl plank flooring from home depot, looks fantastic with out all the issues of laminate
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12-23-2017, 11:38 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999bluebird
I used the vinyl plank flooring from home depot, looks fantastic with out all the issues of laminate
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I just laid some of that in a home entry way, and saw it on the floors in some Airstreams lately. To me it feels like vinyl flooring and just doesn't have the same feel as a wood laminate floor. The plank flooring just feels cheap to me.
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12-23-2017, 11:41 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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All I can do is strongly advise you to lay a proper sub-floor on top of the foam.
It's up to you ... your bus
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12-24-2017, 04:45 AM
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#28
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I was referring to the foam/vapor barrier that the laminate calls for. The only reason I used 1" as an example was to reduce head room issues. As short as I am I could go 2" and still be safe. While the foam board has only a 25#psi how often do you have something that puts more than 25#psi on the floor, keeping in mind the compression strength of the added laminate floor. I'm always looking for ways to save weight.
Securing other things to the floor does raise thought.
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Not everyone does the subfloor on top of the foam. It goes against my common sense also, but seems to work just fine. Am toying with the idea myself.
Foam board goes higher than the 250 series- there is 400,600 and 1000, as well (but not at Lowes)
What you put on top matters, as well. Carpet won't fly, but the thick vinyl laminate from Home Depot called LifeProof is the way to go. Would distribute loads.
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12-24-2017, 10:41 AM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
Not everyone does the subfloor on top of the foam. It goes against my common sense also, but seems to work just fine. Am toying with the idea myself.
Foam board goes higher than the 250 series- there is 400,600 and 1000, as well (but not at Lowes)
Attachment 18015
What you put on top matters, as well. Carpet won't fly, but the thick vinyl laminate from Home Depot called LifeProof is the way to go. Would distribute loads.
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I'm talking about the 5/16 snap together wood laminate flooring, I think that would hold plenty of weight and not need a subfloor of plywood.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...-206354450-_-N
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12-24-2017, 01:28 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,988
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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I used the 1/4"-foam underlayment made for floating floors and 1/2" thick bamboo and teak mix flooring(cause it was free) but I did all of my framing first and left the floor floating per the directions with the 1/8-1/4" gap on the edges and set the trim shimmed up with a piece of typewriter paper to allow for movement but I did use silicone (lightly) to seal the edges of the trim
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12-24-2017, 01:50 PM
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#31
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
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Negative on the pergo-style. It's particle board, doesn't like moisture, despite their advertisements.
Look at the vinyl- zillion colors and styles. Won't swell and get moldy.
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12-24-2017, 07:59 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Have to agree on avoiding particle board. Anywhere in a bus for that matter. Total crap!
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12-24-2017, 09:21 PM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Now that I've built my partical board sailboat you go and start talking bad about particalboard.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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12-24-2017, 09:26 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Now that I've built my partical board sailboat you go and start talking bad about particalboard.
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It makes a decent core for a fiberglass lay-up
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12-25-2017, 09:36 AM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I just hope your particle board sailboat outlasts my particle board submarine.
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12-25-2017, 10:43 AM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That depends on weather or not you installed the ubiquitous submarine screen door.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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12-25-2017, 11:25 PM
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#37
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: MIAMI, FLA USA
Posts: 19
Year: 1999
Coachwork: 34 foot blue bird
Engine: CUMMINS 5. 9
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my suggestion as a long time woodworker is go first class and lay down a real wood floor,endless possibility's, tats the cowboy way.
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