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Old 01-09-2007, 09:26 PM   #21
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We used wood pannelling. It has a design already on it, so no painting nessisary and it was about $17 for a 4 by 8' sheet. So the price was great. We looked at other materials, but the price was right with this, and it did not require any additional work to get it finished. There is not texture or indents in it the way traditional pannelling has either, so we could paint it later if we chose.

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Old 12-23-2017, 09:59 PM   #22
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I'm wondering if a subfloor of 1" hard foam insulation glued to the metal floor with a vapor barrier on top and then just snap together laminate flooring on top of the foam creating a floating floor would be a viable option? No nails or securing devices to interfere with heating strips.
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:07 PM   #23
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I'm wondering if a subfloor of 1" hard foam insulation glued to the metal floor with a vapor barrier on top and then just snap together laminate flooring on top of the foam creating a floating floor would be a viable option? No nails or securing devices to interfere with heating strips.
Almost ...

I would use 1 1/2" for the extra insulation, but that's me.

You don't need the vapor barrier, the steel floor does that job. You do need a sub-floor on top of the insulation, before the laminate. Even the good foam board only has a compression strength of 25 lb per sq in, so you need to spread the load, and have something to fix other items to. Three quarter inch plywood is best, five eigths will do. Then put the laminate on top.

You don't have to screw it down although some construction adhesive between the layers will stabilize the floor and help prevent squeaks.

Caulk around the edges to prevent spills and condensation running under the floor.
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:15 PM   #24
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Almost ...

I would use 1 1/2" for the extra insulation, but that's me.

You don't need the vapor barrier, the steel floor does that job. You do need a sub-floor on top of the insulation, before the laminate. Even the good foam board only has a compression strength of 25 lb per sq in, so you need to spread the load, and have something to fix other items to. Three quarter inch plywood is best, five eigths will do. Then put the laminate on top.

You don't have to screw it down although some construction adhesive between the layers will stabilize the floor and help prevent squeaks.

Caulk around the edges to prevent spills and condensation running under the floor.
I was referring to the foam/vapor barrier that the laminate calls for. The only reason I used 1" as an example was to reduce head room issues. As short as I am I could go 2" and still be safe. While the foam board has only a 25#psi how often do you have something that puts more than 25#psi on the floor, keeping in mind the compression strength of the added laminate floor. I'm always looking for ways to save weight.
Securing other things to the floor does raise thought.
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:32 PM   #25
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I used the vinyl plank flooring from home depot, looks fantastic with out all the issues of laminate
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:38 PM   #26
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I used the vinyl plank flooring from home depot, looks fantastic with out all the issues of laminate
I just laid some of that in a home entry way, and saw it on the floors in some Airstreams lately. To me it feels like vinyl flooring and just doesn't have the same feel as a wood laminate floor. The plank flooring just feels cheap to me.
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Old 12-23-2017, 11:41 PM   #27
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All I can do is strongly advise you to lay a proper sub-floor on top of the foam.

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Old 12-24-2017, 04:45 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I was referring to the foam/vapor barrier that the laminate calls for. The only reason I used 1" as an example was to reduce head room issues. As short as I am I could go 2" and still be safe. While the foam board has only a 25#psi how often do you have something that puts more than 25#psi on the floor, keeping in mind the compression strength of the added laminate floor. I'm always looking for ways to save weight.
Securing other things to the floor does raise thought.
Not everyone does the subfloor on top of the foam. It goes against my common sense also, but seems to work just fine. Am toying with the idea myself.

Foam board goes higher than the 250 series- there is 400,600 and 1000, as well (but not at Lowes)

Screen Shot 2017-12-24 at 4.41.16 AM.png


What you put on top matters, as well. Carpet won't fly, but the thick vinyl laminate from Home Depot called LifeProof is the way to go. Would distribute loads.
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:41 AM   #29
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Not everyone does the subfloor on top of the foam. It goes against my common sense also, but seems to work just fine. Am toying with the idea myself.

Foam board goes higher than the 250 series- there is 400,600 and 1000, as well (but not at Lowes)

Attachment 18015


What you put on top matters, as well. Carpet won't fly, but the thick vinyl laminate from Home Depot called LifeProof is the way to go. Would distribute loads.

I'm talking about the 5/16 snap together wood laminate flooring, I think that would hold plenty of weight and not need a subfloor of plywood.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficM...-206354450-_-N
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Old 12-24-2017, 01:28 PM   #30
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I used the 1/4"-foam underlayment made for floating floors and 1/2" thick bamboo and teak mix flooring(cause it was free) but I did all of my framing first and left the floor floating per the directions with the 1/8-1/4" gap on the edges and set the trim shimmed up with a piece of typewriter paper to allow for movement but I did use silicone (lightly) to seal the edges of the trim
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