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Old 01-12-2016, 09:15 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 47
Sweeeet ride.

More pictures and less garage time...lol
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:33 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 113
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Phantom Schoolbus
Engine: Detroit Diesel 6v92TA
Rated Cap: 84
As I understand it, you'll want to use single-weight oil on a Detroit Diesel 2 stroke... gettin' rather hard to find, but you can still pick up Delo 100 in 30w or 40w (I'd go with 40w) at O'Reilly Auto Parts. They might not have it in the store, but they can usually have it for you the next day.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:40 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Posts: 66
100% correct on the oil, don't run multi grade!
Eric
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:52 PM   #14
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6,154
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Roger that. 2-strokes like single grade. My old DD 6V53 took straight 40. But my little Cummins 4BT lives on 15W40.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:37 AM   #15
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gonvick MN
Posts: 255
Year: 1975
Chassis: Gillig
Engine: Cat 3208t/10 speed transmission
Nice bus!
Enjoy!
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:08 AM   #16
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 1,607
One of the only oils that is specifically designed to use in a 2-cycle DD is Delo 100 in either 30 or 40 weight. DO NOT use multi-weight oil in a 2-cycle DD unless you want oil to run out of every knothole and go past the rings to blow out the exhaust. If you live in cold country I would use the 30W. But if you live where it doesn't go below 30* or below 30* on a regular basis I would use the 40W.

I can't stress how important it is to use only Delo 100. Delo 400 is a great oil but it isn't formulated for 2-cycle DD's. Even worse, Delo 400 LE or any of the other heavy duty diesel rated oils that are rated as low emissions can cause you to lose the top rings on each piston.

The panel you showed in the engine compartment is your auxiliary control panel. It allows you to start and run the engine from the ground. It is really handy if you are working on the engine. Just make sure you keep the controls in the right position to use the in cab controls. There have been many a Crown that "wouldn't" start because the switch was in the wrong position.

As far as leaks are concerned, clean everything up to determine what is leaking from where. You may just have a loose clamp or cover.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:55 PM   #17
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tepme AZ
Posts: 96
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Engine: Detroit Diesel 6-71
Rated Cap: 52 pax
Ok, its time to really start getting to know the bus. I do not have a manual for it and need to know what oil filter it takes. How can I find this info? Also there are some large red filters of some sort.. What do they do? I'm guessing the oil filter is in the cylindrical case that is the same color and attached to the oil pan next to the dipstick?

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Old 01-14-2016, 09:27 PM   #18
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 1,607
The two red Baldwin filters are the fuel filters.

The only way to know for sure which oil filter is in that canister is to take it off and see if you can find a number. DD used a lot of the same filters for both fuel and oil but some applications used odd numbers.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:59 PM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Winter Haven, Florida
Posts: 21
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 88 souls
Welcome to the site and congratulations on finding such a beautiful bus!
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:39 AM   #20
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
Posts: 819
Looking through your pics on Photobucket, I see one of the dashboard. There's a button labeled "Transmission neutral bypass". What's up with that? Anyone?
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