|
|
10-01-2017, 06:35 AM
|
#21
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Fairfield Bay, Arkansas
Posts: 163
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: Ward?
Engine: 8.2 liter ?
Rated Cap: 24 Passenger
|
I started by caulking the holes. That didn't work so good. Then I used pieces of window screen and caulked them up. Better but time consuming and left a bump on the floor. Finally wisened up and used the bondo with glass. Happy camper. Fast and sandable. Easy to do a bunch in a short time.
Ross
|
|
|
10-10-2017, 10:26 AM
|
#22
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
|
I put seamsealer on the bolt shank & drove the bolts back in the holes then covered the floor with 2" foam insulation.
|
|
|
10-10-2017, 06:33 PM
|
#23
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Arizona
Posts: 46
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: Cat 7.2 C7 I6 Turbo
Rated Cap: 66 ankle biters
|
The guy that tore up my floor used Liquid Nails to fill in the holes (after cleaning the surface). He then glued the plywood to the floor and caulked the sides.
|
|
|
10-18-2017, 10:39 AM
|
#24
|
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2
|
I also used the Fiberglass on my floor and ended up loving it. If anyone else is debating what to use, I would recommend it.
|
|
|
10-20-2017, 02:17 PM
|
#25
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Posts: 18
Year: 2003
Chassis: BlueBird
|
I sanded then painted the floor with a first coat of Rustoleum white. Afterwards, I took aluminum HVAC tape and cut it into small squares to tape over the holes in the floor, then did a second coat of paint over the entire floor hiding the tape. Laid down 1/8" inch aluminum backed styrofoam with spray adhesive, then topped it off by bolting a new layer of plywood to the sheet metal floor.
|
|
|
10-20-2017, 08:33 PM
|
#26
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
|
Weld'em!!!
|
|
|
10-21-2017, 06:41 AM
|
#27
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Kansas
Posts: 224
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins, 643
|
I used galvanized roofing caps and NP1 I'll probably do something similar on this bus when I get there. Welding would be the best but the underside of the weld should be painted after to prevent corrosion. My current bus has an undercoat to prevent rust which appears to have mostly worked. I wouldn't want to burn to much off.
|
|
|
12-10-2017, 04:06 PM
|
#28
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
|
Here's a thought most are 5/16 or 3/8 . large headed pop rivet with tip dipped in silicone and popped in wet
Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
|
|
|
12-10-2017, 04:26 PM
|
#29
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
|
Epoxy and pennies.
|
|
|
12-14-2020, 05:57 PM
|
#30
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 124
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins
Rated Cap: 37'
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss
That's awesome. I haven't put my flooring in yet...It's been a year now of stepping all over them everyday and those plugs are tough.
I really like the Henry's crystal clear 212 and find I'm using it alot during my build. But also, all I do is plug up the tube with a screwdriver...can pick it up to use it a couple weeks later and it's not clogged and good to go. I also use it as glue for the felt strips I put around the windows when insulating. And... I fill in all gaps where water might enter around the window. And...I run a fat line of it along the bottom edge of the windowsill before replacing the windows.
It's good stuff. If you make a mistake, wait for it to set and peel it off easily.
I can't say enough good things about it and the many ways I've used it. I might even name my bus Henry when I'm all through LOL
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
|
Hello Tobeamiss -
Super helpful to read everyone;s methods for water prevention! Using Henry's, how are your windows holding up 4 years later?
|
|
|
01-23-2021, 10:38 AM
|
#31
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevier
Hello Tobeamiss -
Super helpful to read everyone;s methods for water prevention! Using Henry's, how are your windows holding up 4 years later?
|
So far so good but I hate to jinx myself!
|
|
|
01-23-2021, 10:41 AM
|
#32
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
and, sorry it took so long to reply..... you know, holidays and life...... ;D
|
|
|
03-04-2021, 08:32 PM
|
#33
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 570
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstewrat3
I used 3M Dynatron 550 seam sealer to fill mine. The Bondo products aren't waterproof so you will have to get underneath and coat them to keep them from absorbing water.
|
Holding up pretty good? Thinking of going this route
|
|
|
03-06-2021, 11:17 PM
|
#34
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 570
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstewrat3
I used 3M Dynatron 550 seam sealer to fill mine. The Bondo products aren't waterproof so you will have to get underneath and coat them to keep them from absorbing water.
|
You used just that one product?
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 PM.