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03-19-2016, 11:06 AM
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#1
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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How do I get r?ust off the floor of the bus?
Hmm..... what's the right tool? Jitterbug? Pad sander? Grinder? Steel wirebrush?
I know! Sharks! With frickin' laser beams tied to them!
Have you ever seen one of these before? I don't think I even want to know what one costs. A kilowatt laser!
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03-19-2016, 11:16 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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If you buy it, you could charge people to remove rust on their buses and do tattoo removal on the side.
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03-19-2016, 02:08 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 15
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Very nice!
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03-19-2016, 02:14 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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Yea it cost like a million dollars, I was reading about them the other night
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-19-2016, 03:44 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 403
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
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I would think a wirebrush followed up with Ospho would be the best way, depending upon the amount of rust you have?
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03-19-2016, 04:10 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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I was thinking floor buffer, like we used in basic...and some branches still use
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03-19-2016, 04:20 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD
I would think a wirebrush followed up with Ospho would be the best way, depending upon the amount of rust you have?
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That's how I would do it. Scrape any loose rust and pour on the rust reformer overnight then prime and paint.
Ospho is a well known brand of rust reformer but anywhere that sells paint should be able to sell you their house brand. Ask for phosphoric acid which is what converts the rust into iron phosphate which is a very good base for paint.
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03-19-2016, 06:50 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycal
If you buy it, you could charge people to remove rust on their buses and do tattoo removal on the side.
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Ooh! Ouch! Do they really use lasers for that? That would hurt! (What do I know? I don't have any tattoos.)
I started this thread just to show a cool new tool I ran across. You're welcome to discuss it all you want, but I'm not really looking for advice.
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03-19-2016, 09:52 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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03-20-2016, 08:41 AM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
That's how I would do it. Scrape any loose rust and pour on the rust reformer overnight then prime and paint.
Ospho is a well known brand of rust reformer but anywhere that sells paint should be able to sell you their house brand. Ask for phosphoric acid which is what converts the rust into iron phosphate which is a very good base for paint.
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I never have used this stuff. Will it take care any rust that is/might be left in any pitting? When you poor it out does it need spread around? Again never used the stuff.
Thanks
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04-07-2016, 09:22 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
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Noticed you hadn't really gotten an answer about using the Ospho.
I did my floor last week and put the first coat of Ospho on my entry steps this morning.
It's the same consistency of water. I originally put some in a small plastic paint cup and brushed it on with a regular 3" brush. Easy.
For the second coat on the floor (there were some areas I wasn't sure got converted) as well as the entry steps I just poured a bit out (making sure you don't splash yourself or anything else "fragile") on the rusty areas and spread it around with the paint brush. Leave overnight, brush off any loose crumbs the next day and paint.
The stuff stinks something awful once it starts doing its magic so I suggest a respirator or at least an open wide bus with ventilation. Rubber gloves are highly recommended too.
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04-07-2016, 10:01 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzabus
Noticed you hadn't really gotten an answer about using the Ospho.
I did my floor last week and put the first coat of Ospho on my entry steps this morning.
It's the same consistency of water. I originally put some in a small plastic paint cup and brushed it on with a regular 3" brush. Easy.
For the second coat on the floor (there were some areas I wasn't sure got converted) as well as the entry steps I just poured a bit out (making sure you don't splash yourself or anything else "fragile") on the rusty areas and spread it around with the paint brush. Leave overnight, brush off any loose crumbs the next day and paint.
The stuff stinks something awful once it starts doing its magic so I suggest a respirator or at least an open wide bus with ventilation. Rubber gloves are highly recommended too.
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Yep. smells awful. Like eggs and rust.
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