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Old 03-23-2016, 12:46 PM   #1
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How to attach walls?

How to attach walls to a bus?
I am so 100% confused, Iv had a great stripped down bis for 5 years now with new floor. But I cant make the first "Cut" I cant make a line for ****. I have a garage with all power tools.

Do you screw the wall dividers into the floor or ceiling?
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:14 PM   #2
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my floor is plywood and my walls have 2x4s horizontally.

the partitions in my bus are only attached to the floor and wall. i used a woodworking tool called "kreg jig"...... makes it easy
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:20 PM   #3
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My walls have all been figured to come out under a rib, so I can anchor to ceiling floor or walls, I am a firm believer of over kill, if one screw will hold something then 2 will hold it better.
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:02 AM   #4
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Here is how I got the sides in. Hope this helps.

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Old 04-13-2016, 10:51 AM   #5
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RE: walls/partitions dilemma

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Originally Posted by Skoolydoo View Post
My walls have all been figured to come out under a rib, so I can anchor to ceiling floor or walls, I am a firm believer of over kill, if one screw will hold something then 2 will hold it better.
Good luck and keep us posted
As i don't have a very deep subfloor or walls (subfloor is only one sheet or 1/4" plywood, walls are original bus thickness/direct sheetmetal) i thought about either using some type of an anchor to secure in wooden bases to screw partitions onto, or mount partitions directly using either 90degree corners (like those for gates/fences), or longer segments of 90degree metal strips (possibly aluminum for easy drilling/lighter mat'l).

Reason for the anchor is I've read other threads where the use of self-tapping sheet metal screws ONLY for attaching partitions and cabinet in the long run did not last. Things came lose...
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:58 PM   #6
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Screws wouldn't last on something that flexes frequently. There's lots of metal anchors brackets at the home store that don't cost much and won't interfere with your build.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:05 PM   #7
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RE: screws vs anchors

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Screws wouldn't last on something that flexes frequently. There's lots of metal anchors brackets at the home store that don't cost much and won't interfere with your build.
Exactly the feeling i got by reading other threads...
I'll go look today at the orange box store
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #8
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My whole bus body ('1946 Wayne) is held together with big, fat sheetmetal screws. Not a rivet anywhere. You just have to let them rust in place long enough to secure them.
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Old 04-13-2016, 01:24 PM   #9
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Tango, I'm sure your screw are quite secure. Metal to metal screws should hold up good. Putting wood partitions into a bus body that is meant to flex is where the problems begin. Sure you can build your bus partitions with screws, and you may never have problems. Most of us here seem to be aiming for a super adequacy in our builds.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:47 PM   #10
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I'm sure we'd all agree not to use those plastic anchors, even if rating is 100lb.
First point against those that comes to mind is the barb from the drilled sheet metal cutting and splitting the plastic over time...so i'm thinking either toggle bolts, or simply (in my case won't need many) get regular bolts long enough to go through your mounts/blocks/2x4s/framing and floor, and use compression washers for the extra "lock".

With this last option, me thinks, you can measure pretty close how long of a bolt you'll need, adjust the coutersink to make it flush, and not have 3" of the bold sticking at the bottom...in case you need to put a tank or something else at the bottom.

Am i overthinking this?
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