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Old 07-23-2019, 06:44 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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How to attach wood to the ceiling?

I have been unsure of this for awhile and canít find what Iím looking for.

I plan on ripping 1/2Ē plywood down and painting it white and doing a ship lap type ceiling. My question is, how do you attach the wood to the ceiling without having exposed fasteners?

Iím not even against exposed fasteners but with the umpteen million holes in each rib i think Iíd have a lot of broken self tapers or gaps that werenít even.

Iím having some closed cell foam sprayed on the walls and ceiling done Friday and would like to start on the ceiling ASAP after as itíll be in the low 90s.

Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:49 PM   #2
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Attach furring strips to the hat channels.
I installed mine to the sides, to minimize further encroachment on the minimal headroom.
It helps to negate thermal bridging, and give you some nice, compliant wood to screw to.
I used some pretty, brass-finished Torx screws to attach the luaun panels to the furring, and pre-tapped to ensure uniformity.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:00 PM   #3
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I'm with HazMatt. Attach wooden "ribs" to the existing ribs, then attach your finish ceiling to that. I know on guy who didn't even remove the metal ceiling...just screwed about 1.5 inch wood to existing, insulated that space, then attached tongue and groove siding
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:33 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
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So to the bottom of the rib? Like a 1x2?

My bus has a tall ceiling but I’d like to maintain as much headroom as possible.
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:50 PM   #5
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Presupposing the steel ceiling panels are gonzo: the hat channel surfaces, along the top curvature, which are perpendicular to the ground.
Front n back faces, if you like...
Zero loss of head space, like would happen by attaching the furring on the inwards-facing hat channel faces.
I found screwing my furring strips on only one side of each rib to be more than adequate to attach my thin, finished plywood to.
Mine was several mm thick, but I'm confident your thicker lapboard treatment would fare equally well.
PS: Yes, 1" x 2"
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:03 PM   #6
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Yes the ceiling panels are gone. I’m having some 1” thick closed cell foam sprayed on the ceiling and walls on Friday.
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:36 PM   #7
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To avoid fasteners showing, I'm using a construction adhesive. That will hold my weight hanging from it, between 2 ribs. But can be pried loose if access is needed. I avoided as much wiring under those panels as possible, incase I have to go back in there someday.
Here's the neighbors kid hanging from a glued piece of 2 x 2. I cut curved "T" braces to hold the panels wedged against the ceilng.
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:45 PM   #8
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If you go my route, installing those strips will be mondo easier before the bus starts foaming at the mounds...
It is a time-consuming process, however.
On consideration, you may want to reschedule...
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:17 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
To avoid fasteners showing, I'm using a construction adhesive. That will hold my weight hanging from it, between 2 ribs. But can be pried loose if access is needed. I avoided as much wiring under those panels as possible, incase I have to go back in there someday.
Here's the neighbors kid hanging from a glued piece of 2 x 2. I cut curved "T" braces to hold the panels wedged against the ceilng.
Marc,

What adhesive are you using?

I have tried the Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive from the big box stores and found it to be nearly useless

I had considered using 3M 5200 but have never tried using it with wood.

Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Marc,

What adhesive are you using?

I have tried the Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive from the big box stores and found it to be nearly useless

I had considered using 3M 5200 but have never tried using it with wood.

Thanks.
I thought I had discussed it in my build thread, but after 20 minutes of searching, it's not there. I'm pretty sure its a LocTite product. Here I am hanging my whole 165lbs from it about 20 minutes after gluing it up.
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