It'll only require a couple of pipe wrenches and a few hand tools to disassemle the current setup.
Just disconnect the empty tank(s), open the valves on the stove to clear whatever residual propane is in the lines, and you won't have any problems with the removal. It's just plumbing, basically. (Plumbing that can kill you or burn up your bus if you don't do it right, but it's not hard to work with.) Run your lines using regular black iron pipe (I used 1/2" pipe in mine, I think); use YELLOW (gas) teflon tape for the joints (available at most hardware stores that sell black iron pipe); and use one of those home-style flexible gas lines for connecting water heaters, stoves, dryers, etc. to house gas lines. It says DO NOT USE IN RVs on the flexible pipe connection piece, but I've never had a problem with it -- you pays your money and you takes your chances -- I think the issue is vibration cracking the flexible steel line, but I drive rarely, so it's not an issue for me (I have decided). You can shut the gas off to the stove at the TANK before you drive, then pressurize the system when you are set up somewhere, and then check for any damage to the flexible line. It's overkill, IMHO. If you do much driving, just make sure to secure the flexible line so that it does not vibrate. Maybe use some of those screw-down zip-ties every six inches or so (the whole flexible part on mine is just 18" long).
There's probably some expensive "RV rated" stuff like this at an RV dealership (shoot you can scrounge it from the camper installation!)
I have some information about how I installed an RV range in my bus on my pages in the Gallery. It has worked flawlessly for 5 years.
All you need for the plumbing are a couple of small pipe wrenches; yellow teflon tape for the joints; a tape measure; the right amount of black iron pipe and fittings (Ells, Tees, whatever your plan calls for); a replacement regulator for a gas grill (hooks to you LP tank); and the flexible stove connection. (Plus some brass fittings that will match the stove connection to the fittings on your range -- just have to see exactly what you have to figure out what you need.)
If you work with black iron pipe, you can get your pieces cut and threaded at the hardware store (usually) or by a plumber. Or you can just buy stock lengths and make the installation fit your needs somehow without cutting it. Nipples are used to join the joints that join pipe sections together at the fittings (ells or tees, or unions. They are just short pieces of pipe that are threaded on both ends.The nipple sizes for black iron pipe start at "close" (which means that the nipple is so short as to not add any length to the joined pieces, and go up to 12" by 1/2" increments, so you can generally make a length of pipe come out within 1/2" of what you need (E.G. Need 11' 8 1/2" piece of pipe = 10' length + coupling + 12" nipple + coupling + 8 1/2" section = 11' 8 1/2" -- [edited bad math] -- actually, each coupling adds about one pipe diameter to the length of the set-up, so you have to take that into account -- it's mostly trial and error, lay it out close, hook it up, see what you got, diddle it until it fits.)
I don't mean to minimize the safety aspects of this. Vibration does crack fittings, and a cracked LP fitting can kill in a few ways. BUT -- this ain't rocket science, just basic plumbing.
Check out my installation pages for pics.