Insulating question

[wmkbailey]

To insulate my bus, I putting down 1” of foam board, then spraying in 2” on top.

My question is should I insulate first then cut out for windows, or put windows in and spray around them?

[Diesel Dan]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

To insulate my bus, I putting down 1” of foam board, then spraying in 2” on top.

My question is should I insulate first then cut out for windows, or put windows in and spray around them?

I say spray first, then cut out windows. Otherwise you have to mask, and also I think the sprayed fill would not end up level unless you built out a form to hold it. Too much hassle.

[nat_ster]

Need more info on what kind of windows, ect.

To properly trim your windows inside and out, they should not be free floating. You are going to need wood to shoot your finishing nails into. I would box in the openings with a 2x2 or the equivalent, and mask the surface around the window where your inside wall covering will get installed. That way you simply peal the tape off the studs\boxing to get a nice clean mounting surface. Then flush cut saw the excess that sits out passed the studs. That's how I do residential houses that we spray foam.

Here closed cell 2 pound foam cost $1.10 a square foot, one inch thick. That's around $13 a cubic foot. Whats the price there?

Nat

[wmkbailey]

I'm using RV Insulated windows. They mount with a clamp ring. No framing needed.

I'm using foamit green. One 600 sqft kit for $627.97 = $1.05 sqft

http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/

[bapos]

Just curious do you have all your wiring done on the bus. I have rustled with the thought... do I run all the wiring in maybe a chase or leave it empty and pull it after you insulate?

This has been one of the things I have asked here and I guess didn't get the answer that sealed the deal. I know each build is different but I would think there is a step by step process to do this so you don't have to redo or waste money doing things out of step.

[wmkbailey]

My wiring will be done outside the walls. Along a chase at the top near the roof line. I screwing the 1/4 plywood to the walls and will run the electrical under that.

The only thing that will run in the wall will be 12 VDC (Light switches and LED lights). Any 120 VAC outlets will be in a cabinet, either the kitchen or my computer desk. Even my refrig is 12 VDC.

So far the 120 VAC I will have is the hot water heaters, induction cook-tops, microwave convection oven and computers. Oh and an air conditioner.

[bapos]

Good idea.

Mine is pretty much following your plan as well. What you laid out makes sense. I think at times I loose track that I will be using 2 sheets of 1.75 thick polyiso to get my thickness. So if I use that on the sides it will leave a void when it transistions to the curve of the roof so I can use that as my chase...

[nat_ster]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

I'm using RV Insulated windows. They mount with a clamp ring. No framing needed.

I'm using foamit green. One 600 sqft kit for $627.97 = $1.05 sqft

http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/

Here using kits like that is more expensive then having a commercial company spray it on for us.

Nat

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

Here using kits like that is more expensive then having a commercial company spray it on for us.

Nat

I live near DC and it is much more expensive to have a pro do it for me. Almost twice the cost, about $2.00 sqft. I was told the cost could be higher because it is a small space, they need to get back the prep cost.

[jazty]

Perhaps you could drive the bus to a site where they're already setting up and spraying a house? That would likely make it quite appealing to the company. Easy cash.
I used the Spray It Green stuff and though it functions well, if I were ever doing it again I'd probably source the job out to a pro. I ended up with a whole lot of waste by the time I was done. The guys who do it all week long are just more skilled than a DIY person is likely to ever get..
It's a fun experience playing with the stuff, though!

[wmkbailey]

I just discovered you can't spray it in the winter. The sides of the bus have to be at least 60 degrees. Now I'm leaning to using all foam board. It is costing more because I need little over two kits. which means I have to buy three. My cheap genes are kicking in.

[bapos]

When I was doing HVAC install at a commercial building and they were spraying foam there. I asked him how much to do my bus. Needless to say I was floored at the price. He wanted about 1500 for closed cell. Just a side note... I paid 1300 for the bus. I asked if bringing it on site would help the price he said no. Most of his cost is in prep or masking (labor) to get it ready to spray. I told them I would make it ready to spray and he let me know it would only be like 100 less.

I know this was only one vendor but just passing my experience.

I think I am going to get a smaller diy kit to get in the voids I cant reach with polyiso board. I am going to plan on doing my ceiling now so this will help me do a section at a time and not have my wallet slayed.

[Accordion]

Put as MUCH insulation that you can. Actually put MORE than you think that you need.

Being that I am not able to afford to run all my propane heaters, it was cold this morning. 13 outside, 38 inside. Fortunately, my electric blanket keeps me toasty at night.

[bansil]

At Christmas we stayed in the bus,I have back 12ft partitioned off.

One 1500watt heater kept it at 51* and outside was 12*, front of bus was damn cold...as in lick the window...tongue stuck!

So partitions to make space smaller is also key, insulation helps with not loosing/gaining heat or cold.....if you leave anything w/o a heat/cool source long enough it will be same temp as environment