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Old 02-03-2004, 01:45 PM   #1
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Insulation?

In our first bus conversion we only insulated the floor. I used 1 1/2" ridged foam and put 3/4" Plywood over the top of that. Where we had a problem was with the side walls. When we slept in the bunk bed our shoulders would be frozen when we woke up in the morning. With this bus I think I want to insulate the side walls under the windows. I have seen on some pictures that it look like the metal under the windows has been removed and then insulation put in there. Is this the best way? Does anybody have any advice for insulation the walls and floors for me?



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Old 02-03-2004, 02:03 PM   #2
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windows cause major heat loss. I think you'd be wasting your time just insulating the wall below the windows. I covered more than half the windows in my schoolie with insulation. I used 3/4 " rigid foam board for the walls and the floor. I couldn't come up with a cheap simple method for insulating the cieling, so i left it alone. The ceiling currently causes the majority of my heat loss. Before I covered my windows, i went to home depot and bought house window tint, and mirror tinted all my windows.
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:05 PM   #3
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For the ceiling just drill holes every couple inches and spay in expanding foam. My neighbor is doing that on his Eagle
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:11 PM   #4
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my cieling and walls already has insulation in it from the factory. Fiberglass roll type insulation. When the furnace is running, it's easy to see where all the beams criss cross the roof as these conduct heat and melt the snow off the roof of the bus in a checkerboard pattern.



I don't live in my bus, so i'm not too concerned about the heat loss. If i actually used my skoolie for camping in the winter, i think i'd sacrifice some ceiling height for better insulation of some sort. Perhaps a few layers of 1/4 inch foam board. This should be flexible enough to follow the curvature of the roof without breaking. Then the trick is finding a cheap simple method of covering the insulation..................
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:22 PM   #5
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Celing Insulation

We have the sound panels in the celing so I am sure we would have a funny looking celing after all the foam came out of all the holes
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:24 PM   #6
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Removing the windows

Did you remove any of the windows and put sheet metal in it's place?

That is what I was thinking about doing.
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:25 PM   #7
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I don't know what you mean by sound panels...
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:29 PM   #8
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Sound Panels

In our old bus, the front roof panels where the driver sits is full of 1/8" holes, hundreds of them. In our new bus the entire celing is like that. Thousands and thousands of them.... I would not want to count them....
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:24 PM   #9
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i just left my windows in place. The mirror tiniting keeps people from seeing through the windows from the outside. Inside, i just covered the majority of them with the foam board insulation inside. Then i bought the cheapest wall board i could find at home depot and used that to cover the insulation.



When i installed the hot tub, i had to remove some windows to make the jacuzzi fit. I put flip up steal panels along side the hot tub in place of the windows. These panels open by remote keyless entry.



The mirror tiniting from home depot was about 100 dollars for enough to do the etire bus, mine is a 71 passenger.
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:56 AM   #10
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Storm Windows

No practical experience for reference, only theoretical ideas that I am considering in the future.......



In the situation where one has removed side windows from some portions of the bus yet kept other windows in place, how about taking the removed side windows and using them to create storm windows/insulated windows for the remaining windows? It would be a whole lot of work, I'm sure. If the windows sections were separated by a 1/4" spacer, and sealed airtight with caulk, they would provide some additional insulation for the bus, kind of like double glazed windows on houses. If you really wanted to tinker and get "high tech", it would be possible to build an air tight cabinet with a window and rubber gloves (like the cabinets for handling hazmat stuff) and then flood that cabinet with nitrogen gas before making the final seal on the windows. Capturing nitrogen gas between the panes would eliminate condensation inside the windows.



Alternatively, the removed windows could just be mounted in the same frame opening as the remaining windows with a larger (maybe 1/2" or more) air gap between them.



May not provide enough results to be worth much effort. Just an idea.
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