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Old 07-27-2012, 10:04 PM   #11
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordion
I have seen a large pile of grass clippings catch fire in the middle of a New England winter.
Ah, the power of composting! That's why folks in the medieval periods would use grass and hay in their shoes during the winter. The decomposition of the vegetable matter helped keep the feet warm. Except for the possibility of unexpected fire, it sounds like a fairly ingenious method you've discovered to keep the bus warmer in the middle of winter.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:51 PM   #12
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

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Originally Posted by chev49
you have to be really careful spray foaming under the bus as there are going to be bolts, brake lines and so forth that will be very hard to discover if insulated.
all of my bus wiring and air lines etc. run along the frame which i do not intend spraying. havent decided I if im going to fit the tanks and remove them to spray or spray over them. Probably spray over them in case I use the bus in cold weather. Great for sound proofing. The wiring I add under the bus is minimal and will be in a chase.
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Old 08-16-2012, 12:37 PM   #13
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lornaschinske
Quote:
Originally Posted by bapos
.....I think adding 6" to the floor is a great idea but it would reduce my head room ...
Crawl under your bus. Look up. THAT'S where we will be putting the floor insulation. Not on the inside. I would like to fill the space of the beams with insulation when add a protective sheet of something to protect the insulation sheets from damage. By going with multiple layers, we can stagger the seams and reduce any air flow. The only insulation we add on the inside will be the side walls.
Considering that for me, headroom is at a premium even in a bus with a 6'-6" ceiling, Lorna's idea sounds like a wonderful alternative to stealing vertical height by insulating on the inside. I'm curious about how to keep moisture and road salts from getting trapped between the insulation and bus metal, and if surface rust must be removed first.

The necessity of floor insulation is made obvious by my experience. Winnebago didn't add insulation to the van cab floor; they just put unpadded shag carpet down. The doghouse has plenty of factory (Dodge) fiberglass insulation. All that engine heat is sucked under the rig and out the back. Between that and the location of the exhaust pipes, it got hot enough between the cab seats to melt chocolate inside my girlfriend's purse on the floor. The coach floor is insulated well enough to be comfortable in the summer. (We don't winter camp.)
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:33 AM   #14
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

We can vouch for the spheres, these things are real, bought 12 pounds for $112 and mixed with elastomeric paint for the floor and roof... metal floor and roof went from too hot to hold a hand on in direct sunlight to cool to the touch with the first coat...we put two coats on. We'll be adding it to the primer on the entire outside and to the interior paint we put on the inside. According to hytech, apply to the outside for lower cooling costs in the summer and inside for lower heating costs in the winter. Vacuum "filled" ceramic beads. They work. As for the floor we're going with 1/2" insulation (R3 for the pink stuff) and 1" of combined flooring over the ceramic paint...and we'll head south for the winter
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #15
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

Good info, but much still missing. When I feel like typing more I have some good info to add.

Nat

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Old 08-29-2012, 11:50 AM   #16
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

Nat, I for one would really appreciate reading your thoughts on insulation. Hope you find time to type soon. Jack
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:57 AM   #17
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Re: Insulation.... an editiorial.

Just a quick question on flooring. What type of flooring seems to work out the best overall for year round use? Have been considering using the artificial wood glue down planks. Carpet I feel would wind up being a mess in the winter but would probably be a good insulator.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:39 PM   #18
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It's 2017 and Nat still hasn't found the time to type. Jeeze!

This is easily found on Google (it's how I stumbled upon it today). Maybe we could make this thread more exhaustive.

I for one am planning to lay down a polyethylene sheet on the bare metal floor - then putting wood framing on that, wedging Roxul between the beams and girts. On top of the Roxul I will put a layer of Reflectix, then setup some PEX tubing for hydronic radiant heating (will pump hot water through the tubes). Aka heated floors + efficient heat source. Will probably cut notches in the framing to plumb in the PEX flush with the framing. Then on top of the PEX, I will likely have a thin metal diffuser plate so there are not floor "hot spots" above the tubes. Then subfloor. Maybe some Mahogany plywood (could serve as a floor - but can also be covered with wood flooring or Vinyl easy).

For the walls and ceiling, I will probably put Reflectix on the bare metal. Then framing (wood or metal, not decided), then Roxul again. Might put a vapor barrier on this internal side. Then wood siding, likely.

Those are my thoughts atm..
Will be insulating within 2 weeks, most likely.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:46 PM   #19
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Just get some bubble wrap and mylar and save yourself a ton of money.
Reflectix is mad expensive for virtually no R value at all.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:55 PM   #20
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That's a good tip; I keep accidentally calling it Reflectix when I actually mean foil-backed bubble wrap. It's like how some people call "tissue paper" Kleenex. It is likely I will not actually use Reflectix. And, since I already have some spare Mylar sitting around...I might just buy bubble wrap.
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