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Old 03-24-2016, 09:35 PM   #11
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If its not moldy, I'd say you'd be fine to do that.
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Old 03-25-2016, 04:49 PM   #12
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Would it be bad to spray foam, then press in the panels? Might affect the drying or curing of the foam. I'm saying that because going around the insulation panels with Great Stuff wouldn't seal the same as spray on insulation.
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Old 03-25-2016, 10:21 PM   #13
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spray foam

Neither spray foam nor Great Stuff will cure properly if in a confined space--in fact, they liquify and then harden without forming the air pockets that do the actual insulation. I tested both under these conditions when I was building my bus. I chose foam board sealed around the edges with Great Stuff both trimmed with a hand held hacksaw blade after curing. Also, when it comes to foam board more is better all the way up to R 27. Beyond R 27 more layers don't help. The R values are summative up to R 27. You might want to consider under floor insulation as well. Jack
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:35 PM   #14
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Thanks for the info Jack. I was afraid of problems like that with the spray foam. I've heard before that applying it to thick in one application also causes a curing problem, so it makes sense that burying it behind slabs of Styrofoam or other rigid insulation would have the same deleterious effect.
The floor is my primary insulation goal. I've taken note of all the places that sweat when there's heat in the bus and it's cool outside. I really can't complain for spending my first winter in this totally uninsulated bus. I had cold feet much of the time and it feels like the windows radiate cold, but it was livable in a camping cabin sort of way. I actually thought it would hold heat better than it does.
Thanks again.
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Old 03-26-2016, 01:43 AM   #15
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I would avoid using great stuff wherever possible. I think the adhesion properties are a negative and not positive. Like others said it will not foam properly if not given a place to vent to.

Those foam panels are great, are they just across the middle section or fully from left to right?

If I had that "gift" of insulation, I think I would put it right back, then get some of the Styrofoam boards and cut into strips and use as "chinking" you know, like how a log cabin has rope as caulk between the logs. The trick is to get the size right so you don't compress the foam.

I would then follow up by taping all the joints with HVAC tape, then add thermal break strapping (wood planks) screwed into the roof ribs for something to attach stuff to later.

After THAT, I would add another layer of insulation that sits flush with the wood strapping to try and bulk your insulation up some more.

After that insulation is in, tape the seams between new foam and the strapping strips.

Don't forget to insulate your floor. If you can, do it from underneath - don't you have plywood floors? It might make a great attachment point from under the bus so you don't loose height on the inside.

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Would it be bad to spray foam, then press in the panels? Might affect the drying or curing of the foam. I'm saying that because going around the insulation panels with Great Stuff wouldn't seal the same as spray on insulation.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:39 PM   #16
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I would avoid using great stuff wherever possible. I think the adhesion properties are a negative and not positive. Like others said it will not foam properly if not given a place to vent to.

Those foam panels are great, are they just across the middle section or fully from left to right?

If I had that "gift" of insulation, I think I would put it right back, then get some of the Styrofoam boards and cut into strips and use as "chinking" you know, like how a log cabin has rope as caulk between the logs. The trick is to get the size right so you don't compress the foam.

I would then follow up by taping all the joints with HVAC tape, then add thermal break strapping (wood planks) screwed into the roof ribs for something to attach stuff to later.

After THAT, I would add another layer of insulation that sits flush with the wood strapping to try and bulk your insulation up some more.

After that insulation is in, tape the seams between new foam and the strapping strips.

Don't forget to insulate your floor. If you can, do it from underneath - don't you have plywood floors? It might make a great attachment point from under the bus so you don't loose height on the inside.
The foam panels are throughout the bus - the whole ceiling and the lower walls beneath the windows. I like the idea of filling in, then taping over instead of great stuff. I think I'll go that route. The thermal strapping is exactly what I plan to do for the ceiling, with another layer of rigid insulating foam between the wood.

Is there a special kind of tape I should use?
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Old 03-26-2016, 01:14 PM   #17
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Hvac ducting tape. It's the silver metallic shiny stuff at HD or lowes. You can find it in with the air vents and ducting for home systems.
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Old 03-26-2016, 01:33 PM   #18
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The stuff from home depot is only 2" wide and rather thin I did some
research on line and found a 3" wide heavier tape for less money even
with shipping. The extra inch of width really helps with covering gaps.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:19 AM   #19
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This is a good idea just make sure you order enough at one go, its crazy how much tape gets used up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
The stuff from home depot is only 2" wide and rather thin I did some
research on line and found a 3" wide heavier tape for less money even
with shipping. The extra inch of width really helps with covering gaps.
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Old 03-29-2016, 04:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
The stuff from home depot is only 2" wide and rather thin I did some
research on line and found a 3" wide heavier tape for less money even
with shipping. The extra inch of width really helps with covering gaps.
Hey Dragon, would you happen to have the website link for that tape you found?
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