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Old 11-17-2016, 09:59 PM   #11
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
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I used readily available steel – a rectangular tube and two sizes flat stock. Put together, they fill the “hat” channel.
It would be stronger to install something equivalent on the outside of the “hat”, but… gosh… do I need it to meet Pupil Transportation standards? I added a few diagonals in the walls, and two diagonals in an X across the “forehead” above the windshield, for good measure.



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Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...gate-1564.html
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:37 AM   #12
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I cut a piece of the rib out and took it to a local metal shop so I could get square tubing that would fit inside. I had them cut me 20 pieces, each piece being 46 inches long. I raised my roof 20 inches and I bolted the tubing in. It is really solid. I paid just under $100 for the steel tubing. I also got 4 x 8 sheets of 18 gauge cold rolled steel for skinning the bus and each sheet was $30.25.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Elliot Naess View Post
I used readily available steel – a rectangular tube and two sizes flat stock. Put together, they fill the “hat” channel.
It would be stronger to install something equivalent on the outside of the “hat”, but… gosh… do I need it to meet Pupil Transportation standards? I added a few diagonals in the walls, and two diagonals in an X across the “forehead” above the windshield, for good measure.



This is exactly how I did mine as well. So far it's been rock solid and my bus has done about 5 or 6k miles since I raised the roof... No swaying, rocking, buckling or any kind of movement at all...
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:25 PM   #14
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About bolting the extensions in.... I will definitely bolt mine in next time. Mind you... this will have to be done properly, and I'm thinking...:

High grade bolts -- at least Grade 5, maybe Grade 8 -- no unmarked hardware store bolts.
Matching grade nuts. And definitely self-locking nuts -- at least ny-lock, but better the crimped all-steel nuts that practically weld themselves in place if you run them in fast with a power tool.
Hardened washers on both sides.
And install these on very solid steel -- at least 1/4 inch walls, or better with a spacer inside, so the structure being clamped by the bolt does not give under the pressure.
Bolt diameter... 3/8 ought to do.

Two of these at each end of the extension, several inches apart. Drill and bolt with the insert clamped tightly to the bottom of the hat channel (the top of the hat).

Dang, that ought to do it!
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Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:37 PM   #15
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,116
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
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Originally Posted by slaughridge85 View Post
This is exactly how I did mine as well. So far it's been rock solid and my bus has done about 5 or 6k miles since I raised the roof... No swaying, rocking, buckling or any kind of movement at all...
60,000 miles on Millicent so far.
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Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
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Old 11-19-2016, 12:20 PM   #16
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess View Post
I used readily available steel – a rectangular tube and two sizes flat stock. Put together, they fill the “hat” channel.
It would be stronger to install something equivalent on the outside of the “hat”, but… gosh… do I need it to meet Pupil Transportation standards? I added a few diagonals in the walls, and two diagonals in an X across the “forehead” above the windshield, for good measure.



I was thinking about going the route you did. It looks like you've got it to fit perfectly! Do you remember the dimensions of your ribs and rectangular tubing you used? Looks plenty strong too
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:56 PM   #17
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,116
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
The box tubing is 1 x 1 1/2. Wall thickness measures a bit over 1/16, so that's probably .065.

One flat stock is 1 x 1/4.

The other is 1 1/2 x 3/16.

This adds up to 1 3/4 x 1 3/16.
This went inside the hat with the factory skin still on the outside of the hat -- the visible strip of skin between the factory windows (against the work bench in the two photos).

Then I figured out to remove that original strip of skin, since the new skin goes there. Of course, the difference in fit is trivial unless you are a rabid perfectionist.

But removing that strip makes it possible to insert the... uh... inserts horizontally, instead of jacking the roof up several extra inches to insert the new material from the top, and then lowering the roof again.
And if welding, you get to weld inside the hat, which improves strength considerably.

I fabricated all 30+ inserts before I began cutting the roof free.

Edit to add:

Be sure the inserts are all the same length, and that you have even stops at top and bottom so the roof winds up level. On Millicent, there were already bolts thru the hats at the top.

Next time, I plan to let the inserts protrude thru the roof skin, to form mounting points for a luggage rack and/or deck. This also eliminates the extra roof jacking for insertion there.

Of course, this creates nasty water leak points, but I figure this can be handled with diligent caulking and painting, and annual maintenance of same.
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