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Old 04-22-2015, 09:12 PM   #11
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I didn't think about the whole bladder needing support thing, that is a good point. The ones I have are decently robust but they definitely would benefit from total support rather than metal ribs around them only.

I am doing 4 tanks total, 4 of the 46 gallon ones. Two will be up front, one on each side outboard the frame, next to the air tanks. This is where I will use the design I posted, plus plywood all around (much to Nat's disapproval).

I was thinking some beefy C channel steel may be appropriate. My frame doesn't have holes in it though, is it kosher to drill a couple of 1/2" holes in the side of the frame? I have another idea in my head.
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:20 PM   #12
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As long as you stay 1.5 inches from the shoulder of the frame, drilling holes under one inch should be fine.

The plywood will just hold moisture, and cause the metal frame to rust out in 5 years or so.

Do what you must, just be aware of the issues that will arise down the road.

Nat
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:12 AM   #13
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Just use the green marine ply wood
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
As long as you stay 1.5 inches from the shoulder of the frame, drilling holes under one inch should be fine.

The plywood will just hold moisture, and cause the metal frame to rust out in 5 years or so.

Do what you must, just be aware of the issues that will arise down the road.

Nat
Thanks. I would love to do it the Nat way but I just don't have the money to and I'd rather it be functional and imperfect than it be perfect and me be 35 years old

And Bansil, that was my plan. Same for the bottom / sides of the storage compartments. Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:16 PM   #15
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Instead of plywood, go buy some lengths of galvanized steel decking. Install it in your pan frame (with hopefully some more vertical supports) so the deck ridges are left to right (the shortest possible span)

You can use the same stuff for supporting the tank walls, as well.

Make sure you treat the edges where you cut the decking, so it doesn't rust. It'll be strong or stronger than the plywood, completely waterproof, and probably lighter.

Don't have to buy it from here, this link is just as an example of what you want:

Galvanized Steel Decking | Metalmart


Quote:
Originally Posted by porkchopsandwiches View Post
Thanks. I would love to do it the Nat way but I just don't have the money to and I'd rather it be functional and imperfect than it be perfect and me be 35 years old

And Bansil, that was my plan. Same for the bottom / sides of the storage compartments. Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:23 PM   #16
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Pork chop has to use what he has due to budget.

He is young, and has the time and energy to redo it if need be later.

Unlike a floor that can't be changed later without wrecking the entire bus, the tanks can be swapped out later.

Nat
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:40 PM   #17
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Don't have to buy it from here, this link is just as an example of what you want:

Galvanized Steel Decking | Metalmart
I might buy it from there; they're just down the road from me.

One thing I didn't like about the decking is its thickness. Even the B deck is still 1.5" thick. Any thoughts about the fiberglass core material? A randomly selected online vendor lists Divinycell 4x8 3/8" thick H80 at $102 vs marine plywood 9mm Sande at $59 or 9mm Okoume at $111. Doesn't mention the size of the plywood sheets. Anyway the Divinycell looks to be as much as twice the price per surface area. I wonder whether it would be good enough.

For comparison, Metal Mart wants $111 for the 3x20 ft B deck. I've been thinking about using that for the floor of my basement.
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Old 04-23-2015, 02:52 PM   #18
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B deck would make great basement storage floor.

I'm using metal I cut from the sides of C-Can shipping containers left over from when I used to sell them.

Any time you bend ribs into thin sheet steel, you make it much stronger. This is how they are able to stack shipping containers so high, without them weighing to much.

The Shipping container steel is a bit thick. It's around 10 ga. All we really need is around 16 ga. Much less weight. For more strength, add more ribs when getting it formed at the metal shop.

Nat
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:05 PM   #19
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A 4x8' (32 sq ft) sheet of marine grade treated 1" plywood from the local lumber store here (Seattle, WA) area is $85/sheet.

$2.65 /sq foot

A 12x3' (36 sq ft) 20 gauge 1" form deck panel from a local steel building supply costs $100/sheet.
$2.77 /sq foot

The steel decking, when installed on 5' centers, has a live load rating of 210 lbs/sq foot.

I didn't look up a comparison rating for the plywood, but I bet if you lay it on two centers 5' apart, it's not going to hold 200 lbs in a single square foot in the center.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Pork chop has to use what he has due to budget.

He is young, and has the time and energy to redo it if need be later.

Unlike a floor that can't be changed later without wrecking the entire bus, the tanks can be swapped out later.

Nat
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:10 PM   #20
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Hey man, I hate wood, and vote steel all the way.

I think pork chop already has the plywood.

Nat
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