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Old 09-21-2016, 06:21 PM   #21
Bus Crazy
Stu & Filo. T's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
I went down to Meeks Lumber & the smallest they can get them is 2 1/2"
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:15 PM   #22
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 406
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
Originally Posted by GreyCoyote View Post
Press the palms of your hands together. If a bolt is now drilled through both palms as they move in opposite directions, that bolt would be in shear.

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Example for discussion. If you put a bolt through a piece of metal where there lower metal has to support the upper metal and then the two foot piece(roof raise ) bolted have to support the roof raise roof? Then your shear weight is on the lower bolts.( with of the structure is on the lower bolts? Your upper bolts will might give up before the lowers?
Bolts are yugoes. Rivets are better and welding is solid.
Shear weight is two pieces fastened together with several methods and each method is tested to there shear point which means until they break?
Shear test.
A 1" steel plate vertical concreted in with a 10"x10" x10" X 1" piece of angle bolted with 1/4" home improvement bolt test at 150' the same piece with solid rivets test at 250',with grade 8 bolts 5000' ,with a solid weld joint 10,000
Thanks guys! Completely different than what I thought, your explanation is very much appreciated!

Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
an open propane or natural gas flame indoors produces a TON of moisture...

ever notice houses that have gas or propane heating systems all that white steam that comes off the flue? all moisture that would be Inside your bus if you use a portable propane heater...

if you run a heat exchanger you will lose a little bit of the heat produced by the flame but also exhaust that moisture...

the ultra high efficiency furnaces like the one in my house with a 3 stage heat exchanger condense that moisutre inside the exchanger and gain a lot of extra heat from it.. its entirely possiuble to build your own high efficiency heat exchanger..

I knew I put in my roof vents for a reason! if I could figure out a practical heat exchanger I would put one in, but propane heating is a winter problem!
I figure if I put in a wood furnace with a propane heater then maybe the fire would help keep the moisture minimal?

Originally Posted by syke View Post
I'd recommend metal studs.

It's more expensive than wood but so much easier to work with.... at least for me as I'm neither a framer nor a carpenter. It was so easy to make the radius up at the ceiling.

There are no rattles (none from the metal studs) and no foam or any sort of thermal break between the studs and the bus walls.

If I had to do it over again I would go with the same gauge metal but probably just a 1" stud and track if there is such a thing. (The track is the bottom and top "stud" that has a different profile to allow the "studs" to snap into place.)

Metal is the way to go....
Good to have you join us with your input! Big fan of your build, and the speed in which you completed it! How many miles would you say you drove and how's that been working out for you? I too like the idea of the elusive 1" stud. Still unsure to what extent I'll stud it up, but I like the idea of using studs for walls, ceiling mounts and possibly cabinetry.

Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
This isn't the best video in the world, but gets the idea of what you can do with a simple tube bender. I have a cheap one with dies for square tube. It's a little tricky to make a progressive curve like a bus roof but it's just a matter of measuring off some points with a sharpie pen and turning the crank.

Aaron you should be sponsored (if you arn't already) by Harbor Freight, every time you link a harbor freight buy I book mark it on my "shopping list". Do you know if it comes with a die which supports 1" tube?
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:16 PM   #23
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 406
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
Adding one more thread on here.

The b-s-u-r bus.
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