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Old 07-27-2007, 04:21 PM   #11
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Location: North Dakota
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Re: rollers worked good for us.

We rolled the paint on with a very small napped roller. I think it was 1/4" or 3/8". We used Rust-o-leum professional grade paint because it adheres well to metal and it inhibits rust. It also is available in spray cans with the same colors. We used the spray cans first in areas where we knew the rollers would do know good. Then we rolled as smooth and steady as possible. We painted in a control environment (a pole barn) on a 65 degree day and it worked great. We used two coats most places. After a year there were a few areas that needed touch up, mostly in crevices and areas where we didn't sand good.

I think a key to a good paint job is the prep work. We spent 3 times longer on sanding and priming than we did on painting. Every inch was sanded first with 120 grit and then with 400 grit sandpaper. We also spent alot of time taping the edges. I get asked all the time what body shop painted it for us and the folks are all very surprised to find out we did it ourselves with rollers!
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:11 AM   #12
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Year: 1988
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Re: Need advice on rolling on paint!

If you don't have a compressor there's always one of these:

$50 -

I had one similar. It may not spray thicker paint too well so thinning would be required. I broke the gun on mine partially my fault and partially because they are very cheap guns. This happened before I painted my bus. I have a big compressor so I used a standard spray gun. It's still an option if you don't have a compressor and want to spray your bus.

On my bus I used implement paint made by Valspar (usually sold at farm and fleet stores). It was about $20 a gallon and gives a nice glossy smooth finish when thinned and hardener added. It does have adhesion problems with bare metal.

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