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Old 07-20-2018, 02:07 PM   #1
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Need help with height issue and insulation

Hi everyone,

So I have done an extreme amount of research on here and I know there are countless threads regarding somewhat of my issue, but I needed a bit more clarity.

My boyfriend is ridiculously tall, I think 6'3", or something along those lines. With shoes on, his head brushes the roof.

We are trying to figure out insulation on the roof, sides, and flooring.

We are looking at Waterproof floors that have a "smart core" and supposedly don't need a subfloor... Here is the link so you can see what I mean.

[URL="https://www.lowes.com/pd/SMARTCORE-Ultra-8-Piece-5-91-in-x-48-03-in-Savannah-Oak-Locking-Luxury-Commercial-Residential-Vinyl-Plank/1000193309"]

I'm guessing we would still need some type of insulation or something other than putting it directly on the metal... but again, we have issues with height.

We don't want to do spray foam, due to cost and health concerns. We both have asthma and want to make sure whatever we put in is safe.

We are leaning towards foam board or the "cotton candy" insulation (which ever we can find that's healthy-ish) for the sides and would like to do that for the roof too... We are super new to all of this, so I don't know the layers of materials involved or what the best options would be for our predicament.

We will be full timers and there is a chance we will be in cold weather from time to time. We will be painting roof white and the deck will be added later so we know that helps... we also will be using a portable ac and a wood stove.

Any help would be so appreciated, I hope my post makes some sense lol. I'm learning so much every day but still have SOOOO much more to learn. I appreciate you all!
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:25 PM   #2
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If he is 6'3" and your bus is a standard height 6'3", you have an issue. You can remove the ceiling panels and insulate that 2" area without loosing headroom. Remove the 3/4" plywood floor and replacing it with rigid foam insulation loses you a bit more if you go more than 1"2 foam and 1/4" flooring. A roof raise would be an option that would solve all your headroom issues, but it is time consuming and expensive if you can't do one yourself. I don't know of any health concerns related to spray foam or board foam. Most of the cons involving spray foam are all related to installation.


https://www.reedssprayfoam.com/spray...-vs-rigid.html
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
If he is 6'3" and your bus is a standard height 6'3", you have an issue. You can remove the ceiling panels and insulate that 2" area without loosing headroom. Remove the 3/4" plywood floor and replacing it with rigid foam insulation loses you a bit more if you go more than 1"2 foam and 1/4" flooring. A roof raise would be an option that would solve all your headroom issues, but it is time consuming and expensive if you can't do one yourself. I don't know of any health concerns related to spray foam or board foam. Most of the cons involving spray foam are all related to installation.


https://www.reedssprayfoam.com/spray...-vs-rigid.html
Thank you so much for you advice. I would love to do a roof raise but don't have the money or skills to do so.

We didn't have any wood under our floors (we were hoping that was the case so we could have gained some space... but it was rubber then the metal.

Can you screw the wood paneling you put on the roof directly to the metal or do we need to add wood pieces?

For the floors, I'm honestly not sure what to do.... with the floors I mentioned above do you think it would be okay to place them on the metal (it mentioned other surfaces without subfloor) or maybe insulation board then those floors. I am trying to avoid insulation and subfloor, but I want the floor to be sturdy too if we are gonna spend a good buck on it. The struggle 😣
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:22 PM   #4
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There are those that will argue we are wasting our time insulting at all if we leave the windows in. While I disagree with this, I think not insulating the floor is a huge mistake. What comes to mind are the road signs that say "Bridge freezes before roadway." You will always have cold/hot feet and waste a big percentage of cooling or heating. At minimum I would go 1/2" rigid board and then the vapor barrier and top flooring for the least amount of thickness.
Some fur the ribs to secure the ceiling boards, some secure to the ribs them selves. Again the argument of wasting insulation because the ribs will radiate heat through them right through the wood. Someone recently posted that they just experienced the heat that can be felt through the board. But without numbers to explain how much difference it makes, I will secure directly to the ribs with possibly a thin vapor barrier. If I can get my interior to 30 or 150, that's great. If the rib heat and window heat make me lose 25% (liberal) I could still cool and heat to 38 and 112. Well within the parameters of comfort.
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Old 07-20-2018, 04:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
There are those that will argue we are wasting our time insulting at all if we leave the windows in. While I disagree with this, I think not insulating the floor is a huge mistake. What comes to mind are the road signs that say "Bridge freezes before roadway." You will always have cold/hot feet and waste a big percentage of cooling or heating. At minimum I would go 1/2" rigid board and then the vapor barrier and top flooring for the least amount of thickness.
Some fur the ribs to secure the ceiling boards, some secure to the ribs them selves. Again the argument of wasting insulation because the ribs will radiate heat through them right through the wood. Someone recently posted that they just experienced the heat that can be felt through the board. But without numbers to explain how much difference it makes, I will secure directly to the ribs with possibly a thin vapor barrier. If I can get my interior to 30 or 150, that's great. If the rib heat and window heat make me lose 25% (liberal) I could still cool and heat to 38 and 112. Well within the parameters of comfort.
Thanks so much, Marc. This is really helpful.
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Old 07-20-2018, 05:44 PM   #6
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I still do not understand why there are no threads about insulation on top of the roof, takes care of the heat transfer thru the ribs and saves head room at the same time.


later J
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:03 PM   #7
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I still do not understand why there are no threads about insulation on top of the roof, takes care of the heat transfer thru the ribs and saves head room at the same time.


later J
Just seems so impractical and probably can't be done esthetically pleasing.
Why don't you give it a shot and post your results here?
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:19 PM   #8
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I still do not understand why there are no threads about insulation on top of the roof, takes care of the heat transfer thru the ribs and saves head room at the same time.


later J
Im curious about that. I know the white color is suppose to help with the heat, as well as a roof deck, which we plan to have in half the top.

I wouldn't know how to insulate on the outside other than that though.
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:31 PM   #9
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I am trying double alu faced poly iso board with alu taped sides below the solar panels.


Later j
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:08 PM   #10
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I will, but I think putting a 6 ft wide 1" layer on top under solar panels will be hardly visible. Besides the practical part seems to be pretty easy to me, especially seeing the advantages.

The esthetically pleasing part,......if school buses would be then most RV's would have been shaped like school buses.


Later j
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