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Old 06-18-2016, 12:15 AM   #11
Bus Crazy
Elliot Naess's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,148
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
I bought Millicent from First Student almost ten years ago. The asking price was $6,000, and I struggled to get it down to $5,500 by describing in gory detail some minor body damage.

I found it difficult to negotiate with a pro, and by e-mail at that.

Recently I inquired about a couple buses with them (by e-mail). I received a price, and that was it. When I asked for additional information, including arrangements to inspect the bus, I received no answer. And when I e-mailed the bus barn, they referred me back to FS.
They sell buses "by the case" to dealers who take them to Mexico. We're not worth their time.

The best way to buy a bus is surely to visit local bus barns in person. Look sharp. Drive a sharp car (borrow your Mom's). Read a lot first, so you can ask relevant questions. I never met a bus mechanic who wasn't friendly and helpful.
Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:40 AM   #12
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 609
Read before bidding.
1. Come prepared.

Never begin to negotiate on the price of an item that you haven't researched and understand the value of. In order to get the best deal, it's essential to know what the market supports for the item in your area. Ask yourself: is it a good deal to begin with? What have other items like it sold for recently? How is this one better or worse? What's my ideal price and what's my maximum price?

2. Be polite.

Negotiating should be less of a battle and more of a dance. Have a conversation with your seller, kick the dirt, and find some common ground. Realize that both parties have an investment in the outcome, and that a happy seller is as important as a happy buyer. Sellers who leave feeling like you drove a hard but fair deal will be more likely to "dance" with you again.

3. Don't make the first move.

This is where a bit of psychology comes in. If you're in a situation where the price of an item is not stated, let the seller toss out the first number. Whoever quotes this magic figure first takes the most risk in negotiation — is the price so outlandish that the seller has alienated the buyer? Is it so low that he could have gotten twice that amount? If you can't avoid naming the first price, opt for a fair, if slightly low-ball offer. Remember, you can always increase your offer, but decreasing it is like trying to unlay an egg.

4. Time it right.

Don't start haggling the minute you meet your seller...or worse, on the phone or in email. A few months ago, I was selling some antique furniture and advertised one piece online with the photo and price. I got three calls within an hour from folks asking me to come down on my price before they even went to the trouble of coming over to see it. This method is tactless and shows little skill and even less effort. (See also: 9 Secrets of Highly Successful Craigslist Sellers)

5. Get creative.

Negotiating on price is the most obvious way to employ your skills, but there are many other things that can tip the deal in your direction. Don't get stuck on dollars and forget other factors that can equal dollars. If the item is large and hard to move, ask the seller to include delivery. How about a few lessons on how to use that guitar instead of the $20 discount you're looking for? Maybe that cell phone carrier would include a free car charger and earbud to win your business.

6. Be able to walk away.

If you're working hard on a deal that you believe just isn't going your way, be prepared to politely wrap things up and walk away. Remember, in the game of negotiation, walking away is the ultimate card to play, so don't overplay it or play it before you're ready. Typically, seeing a potential buyer heading toward the door will motivate most sellers to make a deal.

7. Flash the cash.

If you've gone to all the trouble to close a sweet deal, don't spoil the moment by not having cash in-hand. Remember, cash is still king — showing up with the green is a huge bargaining chip in itself. Leaving to hit the ATM gives your seller time you don't want him to have — time to reconsider or get a better offer. Oh, and while we're on the topic, have exact change. There are few things that show worse form than explaining your tight financial circumstances to a seller and then sorting through your c-notes to pay for that $40 bicycle. Think in advance and expect success — have the money ready

The 7 Laws of Negotiation

PS. Always make a face when they give you the price. Make it look like they just hurt you.
Former owner of a 1969 F600 Skoolie.

1998 Ford B700 Thomas body 65 passenger. 5.9 Cummins 12 valve with MT643 Transmission 123,000 miles.
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Old 06-18-2016, 09:34 AM   #13
Bus Geek
EastCoastCB's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,731
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Very good post, Versatile!
Roll Your Own Build Thread
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:41 AM   #14
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 266
Buying buses from First Student is a waste of time, imo.

(1) Overpriced as hell

(2) They are JUNK. One of my managers ran a First Student terminal for a number of years and he's confirmed that FS only unloads buses when they can no longer pass inspection or have too many mechanical issues.

(3) First Student is a global corporation that makes profits by cutting costs wherever possible. This means they buy buses with NO options on them. Hydraulic brakes, cheap interiors, etc.

In general, school bus contractors will keep buses until they can no longer be used in service.
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