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Old 06-01-2010, 12:06 PM   #21
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenDriven
...I ran out of propane...
It happens...

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Old 06-01-2010, 01:49 PM   #22
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

Quote:
I ran out of propane.
My first good laugh of the day. Sorry, I'm not being mean, but it was funny. I do stuff like that all the time. You're man enough to admit it. That speaks volumes. I know plenty of people that wouldn't fess up.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:47 PM   #23
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

Someone correct me, but doesn't the cold air flow from the freezer flow to the fridge? Maybe there is an obstruction.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:13 PM   #24
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

the facts and only the facts: the fridge worked when it was bought; it worked in your garage; yet it won't work in your bus,what could the problem be? Your install. I HAD the same problem you now have and it was my vents. If you look at most trailers and RV's they have a lower vent and a vent in roof, VERY POSITIVE CONVECTION. I looked at your pics and you don't have near enough upper vent, mine is 16x16 and I bent the lovers a little more like level to get more convection and air movement. You can't turn a corner with the air and get it to move correctly like you have, it's got to be changed and the vent enlarged greatly. Also the vent needs to be raised for better performance, out the roof for best performance. 2) the propane heat is way more BTU'S over what is needed to get it to cool properly and the extra heat is getting trapped in the rear area and killing the cooling. It gets worse when the sun is heating the side of the bus. I actually installed an exhaust pipe to exhaust the propane heat and fumes to get them outside the fridge area and get rid of that heat and that helped a lot. In my ancient 3 way Dometic I run gas to get it going or during the night and electric during the day or when ever I can to make sure my stuff stays cold, especially in hot weather. The pipes don't corrode on the inside or these things wouldn't work for decades. Try running yours without the grill and I bet it works better. Sorry but you are going to have to completely redesign your fridge install but in the long run you will be very glad you did, they kick ass. Also it takes mine 24 hours to get to optimum temperatures. sportyrick
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:40 AM   #25
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

I don't know if you've seen the manual yet. It has troubleshooting steps as well as the all important installation criteria.

http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/2552.pdf

I hope this helps,
jim
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:25 PM   #26
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Re: Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

Pup;

Thanks for the information! I'm filing it for reference.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:36 AM   #27
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Hey all, great thread! I am about to build the box and install my propane norcold. The directions are a tad overwhelming..but it seems easy enough. I just want to make sure on a few things. I have figure out what the hell a baffle looks like lol. And did anyone need to install insulation on either side of theiR fridge? Noticed some rv folks had them on some youtube vids but i dont think that it is totally needed...
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:31 PM   #28
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Any added insulation will just make the compressors work that much easier. But only if properly vented. Those puppies generate quite a bit of heat making cold.
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:00 PM   #29
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Thanks! Good to know. I do plan on taking the manual and other advice on venting on the bottom wall and through the roof. My fridge came with neither vents...i think its just covers tho so shouldnt be too hard to find. I was just getting lost with the baffles, insualtaion, and the whole bottom vent needing to be level with the floor of the fridge..i overcomplicate things loo
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkindt View Post
Here's something I stole from another site...

Just to clarify a few things about the RV absorption refrigerator -

The heat source, meaning the propane flame or the electrical heating element, is used to "elevate" the amonia/water mixture to the top of the cooling unit. There after it is gravity and the PHYSICAL change of state of the chemicals that does the rest of the cooling work.

The air flow across the back of the refrigerator is also gravity controlled - hot air rises and flows out the roof vent. Cooler air is drawn in through the bottom or side vent to replace this rising air. This rising air collects heat from the evaporator fins as it passes by, thus removing heat from the cooling unit.

Any assistance, especially in HOT weather, will help with this heat dissipation. A fan to move the air need not be a large one to effect a higher efficiency. Also, the addition of sheet metal baffles to direct the moving air through the evaporator fins can be very effective.

Use a mirror to look up into the back of the refrigerator compartment. There should be a maximum of one inch clearance between the evaporator coils and the facing wall. If the clearance is more than this then your refrigerator will benefit by the addition of baffles. It may be necessary to remove the refrigerator to install the baffles, but that is not a hard task to do and may result in a very much improved cooling efficiency.

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Omy this RV fridge stuff sounds too complicated and scary, I rather sell mine and install a 110v house refridge, posting for sale! If looking for one dm me
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:14 AM   #31
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Hold on while I put on my Flack Jacket

I bought my first absorption refrigerator in 1994. I ran it while traveling full time in my bus for five years. Then one morning I woke up gagging on ammonia fumes. Eyes burning & watering so bad I had a time finding the front door.

My experience in those five years that the "must be perfectly level" is WAY overstated. Let's call it 1800 days parking in all sorts of places. Some far enough from level that I had trouble sleeping. The fridge didn't care. I found that outside temperature did have a significant effect on performance. Keeping ice-cream could be challenging in hot weather.

I also found that they are energy pigs.

Ventilation is also critical.

So, I have owned three rigs with absorption refrigerators. I wound up replacing all three with conventional refrigerators. In my current bus I am starting out with a conventional refrigerator.

In my current travel trailer i replaced the 6.8 cu.ft. absorption refrigerator with a 10.8cu.ft. conventional refrigerator and it fit nicely with only a minor cabinet modification. There was a storage compartment under the fridge that was pretty useless. I took the door off, removed the shelf and cut the rail. 30 minutes and we were ready to go. The extra space compared to the old one is fantastic. We spent a month in Mexico and grocery shopping could be a challenge in some places so the extra space made the trip so much easier. Oh... And it keeps my ice cream solid when it is in the high 90's outside.

I speak only from my own experience with RVing over the last 25+ years. Around 8-9 years of that was full time. I am calling "full time" any time we were in the RV for three months or more. 44 US states, 3 Mexican states and 4 Canadian provinces.

I am not making this s#!t up
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