Oh no. Dometic RM-2410 fridge flatlines...

crazycal · 05-17-2010, 03:31 AM

Well that sucks. So the fridge has to be perfectly level to work? The world was flat 500 years ago, but that's not the case today. What happens when you are driving in the mountains? Does it turn from fridge to oven?

bus-ted · 05-17-2010, 09:48 AM

I have an old dinosaur of a Dometic RM 77, and while it's a solid and dependable fridge, it's pretty finicky. Like you discovered, in order to operate, it's got to be level. That's the downside to absorption- type fridges. They really only work when you're stopped and set up to stay somewhere for awhile.
And for those that may not know- it's never safe to run your fridges off of gas while mobile, and it's not permitted to run/burn gas while filling up at a gas station.

bus-ted · 05-17-2010, 10:00 AM

cinci- on the 110/ 12v operation, it can take quite awhile. If it's been setting inoperable for a while, it can take even longer, as the ammonia separates out of solution. An old trick, but which is hard to do if the fridge is mounted, is to tip it from side to side, and then front to back. This can help mix the chemicals.
Also, operation on gas should give you quicker results.

But... if you're hearing rather loud gurgling from it, then that's a bad sign that the cooling unit is shot- very costly to replace. Often times if it's a good fridge, it's cheaper to repair than to replace, like by half in some instances. Also, are you sure it's level front to back, side to side? Good luck.

Locutus · 05-17-2010, 11:27 AM

My RV has a Norcold fridge. The owner's manual says it must be with 3 deg. of level when operating it parked. I asked a local RV dealer about use in transit and they said that the motions of travel compensate for not being level, but that it should be run on DC while underway for safety. Like you I found that it did not work properly unless level. Works fine otherwise. Trying to operate it out of level when parked can actually do costly damage to your fridge.

crazycal · 05-17-2010, 01:08 PM

I have a propane electric fridge, but I think I want to do the chest freezer refer conversion for the Man Cave. Do you think that has to be perfectly level also?

bus-ted · 05-17-2010, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarrenDriven

bus-ted - why is it unsafe to run propane while mobile? The PDF specifically mentioned that it would operate fine while moving and there weren't warnings about doing it. I can understand the gas station thing (although I will probably realistically ignore that advice), but I've seen crazy stuff at gas stations and when is the last time you ever heard of a gas station fire? My gas filler is on the opposite end of the vehicle as the propane anyway.

It's just a safety precaution. A wreck or blowout can turn nasty quick if a gas line's ruptured. 8 p.p.m. of propane to air is all that's needed to ignite it. People do it,though, with the main reason being to operate the fridge and gas heat/water heater, but it's not advisable.
Personally, with how my bus handles (it's no cadillac!), I'd rather not take the risk, even with the extra care taken to stabilize the gas lines and all that. I can easily picture a leak developing, and while I have a gas detector, I still would rather not risk it, a main reason being that it's usually just me and my kiddo that are in the thing.
As far as gas stations go- yeah, they kind of take the safety thing to extremes, and while you can put a cigarette out in gasoline, I still won't smoke around the pumps. I'd rather err on the side of caution as well.

bus-ted · 05-17-2010, 01:25 PM

crazycal- I don't think it's as critical to a compressor type fridge/freezer, but it's still wise to keep them as level as possible.

Jarlaxle · 05-17-2010, 04:14 PM

Many people run with the reefer on propane...it's fine.

lornaschinske · 05-17-2010, 10:18 PM

http://www.rvmobile.com/
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?s...l=refrigeratorTopic: Traveling with the refrigerator on

jkindt · 05-18-2010, 12:55 AM

RV refridgerators require specific clearances to ensure proper convection currents to cool the coils. Usually they are 0" clearance on the sides and bottom, 1" clearance on the back. The bottom of the lower vent is usually even with the bottom of the refridgerator, and the top vent is usually above the upper coil assembly either through the wall or out the top. These are very general guidelines and you should try to find out the specs for your specific refridgerator unit, but I do know that if not vented properly, they tend to overheat and not work well.

jkindt · 05-18-2010, 01:08 AM

More clearance is not necessarily better. In fact the owners manual for my Norcold unit specifically states to add baffles if needed to keep the rear clearance at 1", no more, no less, especially around the coils. Air needs to move through them and if the space is too large it will not move fast enough to create the convection currents.

jkindt · 05-18-2010, 01:24 AM

Here's something I stole from another site...

Just to clarify a few things about the RV absorption refrigerator -

The heat source, meaning the propane flame or the electrical heating element, is used to "elevate" the amonia/water mixture to the top of the cooling unit. There after it is gravity and the PHYSICAL change of state of the chemicals that does the rest of the cooling work.

The air flow across the back of the refrigerator is also gravity controlled - hot air rises and flows out the roof vent. Cooler air is drawn in through the bottom or side vent to replace this rising air. This rising air collects heat from the evaporator fins as it passes by, thus removing heat from the cooling unit.

Any assistance, especially in HOT weather, will help with this heat dissipation. A fan to move the air need not be a large one to effect a higher efficiency. Also, the addition of sheet metal baffles to direct the moving air through the evaporator fins can be very effective.

Use a mirror to look up into the back of the refrigerator compartment. There should be a maximum of one inch clearance between the evaporator coils and the facing wall. If the clearance is more than this then your refrigerator will benefit by the addition of baffles. It may be necessary to remove the refrigerator to install the baffles, but that is not a hard task to do and may result in a very much improved cooling efficiency.

Les Doll
RVerscorner.com

bus-ted · 05-24-2010, 10:12 PM

Yes, keeping it packed is very beneficial to the fridge. Those gel packs to the gills in the freezer, and as many of the available sq. inches in the lower box filled. Water jugs are good filler.
It helps maintain more even temps, which I believe helps the fridge work less, and if you should ever have it off line, the goods will keep the temp longer the more stuff is stuffed.

Glad you got the glitches worked out. Cheers!

crazycal · 05-27-2010, 11:33 AM

Those propane fridges seem like a lot of hassle.

baadpuppy · 05-27-2010, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazycal

Those propane fridges seem like a lot of hassle.

Not to mention the risks... do you realize how many recalls have been done for them because they start fires?

I won't have one ever again. They're expensive, temperamental, and dangerous. Of course, that's just my opinion...

jim

crazycal · 05-27-2010, 02:33 PM

I have one. It's not hooked up and I probably won't use it. I like the chest freezer conversion better. I think that is the route I am going to take.

jkindt · 05-27-2010, 03:12 PM

Can you post some pics of your current install? I am curious as to how you have it vented.

Also, I don't know if you already stated or not, but how old is this fridge and what did you get it out of?

jkindt · 05-28-2010, 12:25 AM

Try not to get frustrated with this. These refridgerators are great once you get them up and running. The air intake should come from outside, through a vent in the side of the bus that is at the bottom of the fridge. The second vent at the top of the fridge should also vent to the outside. This will eliminate any problems with air circulation due to pressure differences between the inside and the outside of the bus (especially when in motion). You also don't want to vent the rear of the fridge to the inside of the living space due to the possibility of combustion exhaust getting into your living space (not a big risk, but still a risk). I will try to find a better picture of what I mean.

jkindt · 05-28-2010, 12:27 AM

Better yet, heres a good link describing what I mean. LINK

jkindt · 05-28-2010, 12:34 AM

Here's some pics of how mine is installed...

The first pic shows the upper vent. I had to install the baffle to reduce the clearance to the top coils to about 1". The top edge of the baffle is inline with the top of the coil so the air has to go through the entire coil before it can get up and out.

The second pic shows my ugly mug poking through the bottom vent. It shows how big the vents really are.

The third pic shows the vent cover installed on the outside of the bus. I don't have a great pic of the top vent outside, but it is really just an aluminum louvered grill covering a hole.

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