Oops... Driving to Lowes today to get some lumber to build my motorhome insides, I had to brake sharply. I think I locked the wheels. Anyway, the speedo stopped working.
I reckon the speedo cable popped out. Not sure what it looks like, where I'd find it etc. I did notice that my accelleration and top speed seem better now. There is a kind of rattle from the transmission. Perhaps the prop shaft rubber mounts need replacing?
How do I fix the lack of a speedo and since the governor is seemingly attached, how do I remove or adjust it?
While I was shopping today I found a USB charger that can bolt onto a flat surface and which is wired in. It's rated at 2.1A. That should charge my phones and run my GPS adequately. I might wire it into the strobe switch since the strobe has been removed. I just hope the strobe was 12v.
My dash displays started going out intermittently, then eventually stopped working altogether. In my case it ended up being the ribon cable socket on the board in the dash. It was visibly disconnected. Eight screws and some easy soldering later I was able to get it working again. Zephod, your problem sounds like it might be closer to the wheels, but I bet Bansil's problem is the same as mine.
And I agree about getting a multimeter. It's essential for any electrical troubleshooting.
Every yellow bus I have seen that was built after 1956 has been 12VDC.
The only buses I have seen that were 24VDC were motorcoaches.
If your bus is newer than 1995 it is most likely everything in the dashboard is electronic.
If you are having problems with stuff in the dash it might be easier to pull the dash and replace it with a flat panel and cut in circles to mount standard Stewart-Warner gauges. Between printed circuits, ground issues, etc. you can spend a lot of time and effort crammed in under the dash and be no further in discovering the problem than when you first started. You would also have the benefit of knowing how everything is wired in and where all of the senders are located. Finding all of the OEM senders can be a challenge.
Of course you could go back to the OEM and get OEM movements but be prepared to pay some serious $$$ to do so.