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Old 11-29-2018, 02:05 PM   #1
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Paint stripping question

I'm painting my bus with Sherwin-Williams DTM acrylic. I don't necessarily have to strip the paint down all the way , but if I do the paint job is going to look a lot better.

So the three paint stripping methods I'm considering are, polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder, pressure washer sandblasting, or chemically stripping with Klean strip. Anyone here have any suggestions?
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:42 PM   #2
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I tried paint stripper on my hood of my bus and it was nothing but a huge mess that required sanding anyway.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:07 PM   #3
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Nothing beats sanding and elbow grease for a nice paint job.
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:26 AM   #4
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Nothing beats sanding and elbow grease for a nice paint job.

Yup. Most body shops use a DA sander air powered. DA stands for dual action. I have a 6" air powered with vacuum port for dust collection, and an electric 5" with dust bag, Dewalt. Slower then the air but does a nice job.
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:44 AM   #5
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Yup. Most body shops use a DA sander air powered. DA stands for dual action. I have a 6" air powered with vacuum port for dust collection, and an electric 5" with dust bag, Dewalt. Slower then the air but does a nice job.
Yep- gotta get a DA for the best results!
I mostly use the electric one because its more convenient. My buses are out in a big field.
Bout to start stripping the decals and tape off my shorty and commence with a long winter of sanding and prepping.
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:15 AM   #6
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Yep- gotta get a DA for the best results!
I mostly use the electric one because its more convenient. My buses are out in a big field.
Bout to start stripping the decals and tape off my shorty and commence with a long winter of sanding and prepping.
Unfortunately I have to have this done in about 3 days. My redneck friend hooked me up with his homemade pressure sander attachment.
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:26 AM   #7
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just roll something over whats there you'll only make more work for yourself.
you don't have to remove the paint. we only sand it to smooth it.
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Old 11-30-2018, 01:10 PM   #8
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All depends on the condition of the old paint. If it is in good physical condition (not flaking off) and just grimy looking...leave it and just scuff it really well. Once you get down to bare metal it is really difficult to come anywhere near the bond of factory paint without going into a spray booth with something like epoxy primer.


Scuff pads and maybe some "Liquid Sandpaper" type prep product will provide an excellent bond to the old finish. A final wipe down with a real "paint prep" wash will have it ready to paint.


Best of luck with it.


I had no choice on mine but to go down to bare metal. NOT fun.
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Old 11-30-2018, 03:49 PM   #9
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All depends on the condition of the old paint. If it is in good physical condition (not flaking off) and just grimy looking...leave it and just scuff it really well. Once you get down to bare metal it is really difficult to come anywhere near the bond of factory paint without going into a spray booth with something like epoxy primer.


Scuff pads and maybe some "Liquid Sandpaper" type prep product will provide an excellent bond to the old finish. A final wipe down with a real "paint prep" wash will have it ready to paint.


Best of luck with it.


I had no choice on mine but to go down to bare metal. NOT fun.
Thanks so much! Yeah I talked to the guys up at the auto paint store and even they said don't bother sending it down all the way.
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Old 11-30-2018, 04:19 PM   #10
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This has my attention...

My attempts at removing the reflective stripes that run the full length of the bus have been lame.

I tried the "eraser" gizmo, a heat gun & scraper and a flap wheel on my angle grinder.

The eraser left a great finish behind but after two hours and a nearly all of the usable eraser gone I had removed about 2' of the 70+'.

Heat gun leaves a mess and takes it down to bare metal in spots.

The flap wheel seems like the most expedient method but, again, I am going down to bare metal.

When I read your comment regarding paint not sticking as well if you take it down to bare metal.

Of course I am going to prime it (kemkron) .

What else should I be doing to help the quality and longevity of my paint in places that are down to bare metal?

Thanks.
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