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Old 06-28-2017, 09:54 AM   #1
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Painting Prep: What Grit # should I be using

I got a quote for painting my midsize bus and it was $12,000. Nope, I'll paint it myself thank you. Question, what Grit # paper should I be using to hand sand it down. Do I start with a rougher one and then use a finer one? Also, after it's all sanded, should I wash it down with water and when it dries start painting? I'm finally getting my bus back tonight from the international dealer, they worked on my engine and I'm excited to get started.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:06 AM   #2
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Your plan sound good however wash it once then use a degreaser agent and then wash it again.

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Old 06-28-2017, 10:46 AM   #3
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Wash it with tsp you can find it at home depot in the paint section. For me its the best when prepping for paint
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:27 PM   #4
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# of Grit

Awesome, I'll do those things. Any thoughts on the # of Grit? I've seen, 100, 400, etc.
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:02 PM   #5
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Awesome, I'll do those things. Any thoughts on the # of Grit? I've seen, 100, 400, etc.
Depends. If you're just prepping an already good surface, I'd use a 300-ish grit.
Anything more coarse than that will just remove paint and leave big marks under your new paint.
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:22 PM   #6
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Awesome, I'll be sanding over the original paint so I'll go ahead and buy the 300 grit. Thanks
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:27 PM   #7
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Yep, I've been prepping my shorty for paint with 320.
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:06 PM   #8
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Did you followup with anything finer than the 320?
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Old 06-28-2017, 05:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heeranyi View Post
I got a quote for painting my midsize bus and it was $12,000. Nope, I'll paint it myself thank you. Question, what Grit # paper should I be using to hand sand it down. Do I start with a rougher one and then use a finer one? Also, after it's all sanded, should I wash it down with water and when it dries start painting? I'm finally getting my bus back tonight from the international dealer, they worked on my engine and I'm excited to get started.
So, the guy says with a straight face: "Mr. heeranyi,
I will paint your bus for 12 Large."

...at which you said: "Homina Homina...I need what grit sandpaper and how many gallons of Rust-Oleum?" ...quietly pockets $11,700.


Why are you sanding the bus? Not being dense, but if you are going to piant, you want to clean the bus first- TSP or a phosphate detergent to strip grease and oxidation.

Then sand to give the paint some tooth- something to grip. Your goal isn't to smooth the paint, but to scuff it. Sand any markings until just barely gone, lacquer thinner the shadow. I use a random orbit (DynaBrade) sander or foam pad is fine, too. I use light touch 220 grit sticky circles, stay away from high spots (hand sand w/ used sandpaper)- chair rail, etc. Stop if you see primer.
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Old 06-29-2017, 11:17 AM   #10
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Maybe he thought he could pull one over me, something about how much prep was involved. Okie dokie. I already ordered my sandpaper from amazon so my family will start getting to work. Thanks to everyone in this group
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:44 PM   #11
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What kind of sander are you using?
I'd go with a DA if you have a good compressor. I've been using a 5" random orbital since my compressor is too small.
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:06 PM   #12
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Maybe he thought he could pull one over me, something about how much prep was involved. Okie dokie. I already ordered my sandpaper from amazon so my family will start getting to work. Thanks to everyone in this group
If you are talking about a professional paint job, I don't think $12k would be horrendously ridiculous. Considering they would have to have a huge paint booth, probably more than one person painting at a time, and 3-4 times the amount of materials as a car. (Granted that is about $11K more than I could afford to pay).
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:39 PM   #13
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$2500-$5000 is a realistic price for a professional paint job, IMO.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:54 PM   #14
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First, there are numerous web sites such as eastwoods tech area that show proper body prep for automotive finishes. You can also go to the industirial finishes paint stores for automotive and they would help with not only grit size, but bondo, seam sealers, and the like.

Second, 12 K is not out of the price range for a paint job. For example, to properly paint a custom car i have totally disassembled the body, did the panel work so that all gaps are correct and frequently some welding, all glass removed and so forth. Just the reasonably good paint can cost 3k wholesale not to mention all the other wet components...

I think I painted my Thomas for around 400 for paint only materials, but I used acrylic enamel and clear..and that also included the flakes in the blue section.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:59 PM   #15
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I'm a keep it simple kind of guy. I used 220 wet or dry. Painted outside and it looks great. Check out my pics in the photo section.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:58 PM   #16
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Sand any markings until just barely gone, lacquer thinner the shadow. I use a random orbit (DynaBrade) sander or foam pad is fine, too. I use light touch 220 grit sticky circles, stay away from high spots (hand sand w/ used sandpaper)- chair rail, etc. Stop if you see primer.
Enjoyed these tips. Can you explain lacquer thinner the shadows?

Tim
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Old 04-05-2018, 11:08 AM   #17
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Enjoyed these tips. Can you explain lacquer thinner the shadows?

Tim
Rusty's not here to reply, so I'll take a stab. I'm guessing that "lacquer thinner the shadows" means "take a rag dampened with lacquer thinner and wipe away any residual smudges that the sanding process may have left around the edges". Other folk are welcome to chime in here.
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Old 04-05-2018, 11:58 AM   #18
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I worked for one of the best auto body painter guys around and he used purple scratch pads and ajax. We would wash the car down well with soap/rags/brushes then scrub with scratch pads & ajax.

12k is not that absurd for a bus paint job.
A car will usually cost 3k+, the paint and primer alone can cost $300.-$500 then you have shop time at $50.an hr +.

A bus is a lot of surface area, and a professional will want to make it all look smooth and clean=lots of work, bondo, sanding, taping, cleaning,,,, then you still have clear coat.

I am getting ready to paint mine. $300. in paint and my own sweat and time. I am skipping the bondo and clear coat.
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Old 04-05-2018, 02:18 PM   #19
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What level of perfection are you looking for? It will be harder than you think to get it perfect.

If I had it to do again I would just make sure everything is clean and the surface is stable and paint it.

You will probably have bugs, pollen, roller lint etc it it, but in the big picture it will be fine.

If you are a pro and have time, go for it, but as a mere mortal I think I aimed too high. I painted for weeks until the weather turned in the fall. Still not done...
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