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Old 10-26-2016, 07:36 AM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manitou Springs, CO
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65 passenger
Power wash the tar on the inside of my bus?

I'm done pulling out all of the seats, floor boards, wall panels, and ceiling panels. I removed all insulation. On the floor I am cutting out a few small areas that were rusted through. I am using Ospho on the surface rust. Next I am going to paint the floor.

On the ceiling and walls I have the black tar that they must have used to hold the insulation batts in place. I feel like I want to remove it and paint the walls and ceiling. Honestly, I have no reason other than psychological so I start with a clean canvass.

I heard someone say they power washed the tar off the inside. That sounds great but it seems like that would be promoting surface rust in areas I just got rid of rust.

It doesn't look like the tar is holding any moisture. The only thing its holding is little bits of yellow insulation.

As I'm typing this I can think of no logical reason to power wash the walls and ceiling and then paint them before I start my build. Any opinions?

BTW- I am lazy so 20-30 hours of cleaning and painting for no reason seems rediculous.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:25 AM   #2
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Power wash it.... WITH OSPHO!!!




No, no.. Don't do that.. Oh the burning sensation.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:32 AM   #3
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I haven't heard of anybody stripping the tar off with a pressure washer, though I suppose with enough pressure anything is possible..

Personally, I used an electric heat gun to soften the material and a 3" metal putty knife to scrape it off. Then I followed with a couple rounds of solvent wash using naphtha.

Others have reported great success with aircraft paint stripper. I haven't tried it, but I expect the stripper would soften the tar into something gummy/gooey similar to what the heat gun did for me (but faster and easier) and that the scrape and solvent wash steps would still apply.

It's reported that spray foam won't adhere to the tar layer well. I intend to use spray foam, so that's the biggest reason why I cleaned it out of mine. Others also suggest having the tar cleaned away gives a better view of the base metal so you can look for corrosion or leak issues that may lurk behind the tar.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:27 PM   #4
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Aircraft stripper MELTS the tar (actually Asphalteum). Quite dramatically, too.
After a couple HUNDRED hours I finally got my baked-on tar out.
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Old 10-26-2016, 01:04 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
After a couple HUNDRED hours I finally got my baked-on tar out.
The tar in mine was perhaps younger and less stubborn, or a thinner coating. I didn't spend hundreds of hours, but it was easily 30+ hours. It wasn't until I was nearly finished that I remembered I had a nephew looking for odd jobs to earn money for a school project or trip or something. It would have been money well spent to pay him to do the work for me!
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:41 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
The tar in mine was perhaps younger and less stubborn, or a thinner coating. I didn't spend hundreds of hours, but it was easily 30+ hours. It wasn't until I was nearly finished that I remembered I had a nephew looking for odd jobs to earn money for a school project or trip or something. It would have been money well spent to pay him to do the work for me!
Yeah, I had put several friends and relatives to work on mine. It was about 3/16" thick and baked on SO hard.
The tarry stuff on an OLDER bluebird that I demo'd would come off with my fingernail!
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Power wash it.... WITH OSPHO!!!
Ospho actually works great in a pressure washer... Had a job where we sprayed aluminium trailers down with Ospho and then scrubbed them down to get them ready for paint...

I agree with family wagon. I used an electric heat gun and putty knife on mine and it came out pretty easily...
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:51 PM   #8
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I'm sure there will be those that disagree but after removing my ceiling panels & pulling the insulation & spent quite a few hrs with a flash light during HEAVY rain storms & covered every inch of my ceiling, I found not a single leak or rust area in my bus ceiling so I saw no reason to remove it.
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:53 PM   #9
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hey, if it don't leak, don't fux with it. This advise I live by...
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #10
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I believe the rule on Skoolies is..."if it don't leak...it will soon".
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