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Old 10-19-2018, 10:39 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Pressure washing the Engine.

I did the skoolie.net + engine power washing google search thing with no luck so sorry if this has been addressed in another post I couldn't find it.

As a first step on my conversion I want to pressure / power wash the bottom of the bus with hot soapy water, rinse then use a rust converter on any of the light surface rust. I don't think there would be any issues doing this and it will make removing seats and any other under the bus work easier.

I was also hoping to get after the dirt build up under the hood, (a conventional bus) and then use the rust converter and possibly replace the old zip ties and plastic split loom wire coverings. Maybe refresh the engine paint etc. so the engine bay is more in keeping with the beautiful interior I hope to be building.

So...is it OK to pressure wash the engine and engine bay area? Seems like the engine has been exposed to water coming in the front grill for the last 19 years so it shouldn't be any problem. Thoughts?
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:41 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by BoxGods View Post
I did the skoolie.net + engine power washing google search thing with no luck so sorry if this has been addressed in another post I couldn't find it.

As a first step on my conversion I want to pressure / power wash the bottom of the bus with hot soapy water, rinse then use a rust converter on any of the light surface rust. I don't think there would be any issues doing this and it will make removing seats and any other under the bus work easier.

I was also hoping to get after the dirt build up under the hood, (a conventional bus) and then use the rust converter and possibly replace the old zip ties and plastic split loom wire coverings. Maybe refresh the engine paint etc. so the engine bay is more in keeping with the beautiful interior I hope to be building.

So...is it OK to pressure wash the engine and engine bay area? Seems like the engine has been exposed to water coming in the front grill for the last 19 years so it shouldn't be any problem. Thoughts?
I used a steam/power cleaner on an engine. Came out pretty good. Watch out for electrical stuff and use degreaser.
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:46 PM   #3
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For the engine the steam cleaner is the way to go. You don't want high pressure pushing water and dirt into your seals or knocking wires loose.

Ted
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:51 AM   #4
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I diod it on my mechanical engine, havent doneit on my electronic one yet.. but id probably disconnect the battery... wash it down then let the bus sit in the sun with the bonnet open and dry out, then fire it up.
-Christopher
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Old 10-20-2018, 03:52 PM   #5
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Don't wash it in the same place you'll be puling the seats - otherwise you'll end up laying in all the crud you just washed off.


I'd apply the rust converter after you take the seats out. I wouldn't want to paint over the bolt threads I just washed, and you'll have a ton of uncoated holes when you remove the seat bolts.
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:02 PM   #6
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Don't wash it in the same place you'll be puling the seats - otherwise you'll end up laying in all the crud you just washed off.


I'd apply the rust converter after you take the seats out. I wouldn't want to paint over the bolt threads I just washed, and you'll have a ton of uncoated holes when you remove the seat bolts.
All great advice.
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:39 PM   #7
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Use a fan spray nozzle. Less chance of damage
To all the important stuff while still removing crud.
We power washed a c-15 caterpiller before a gasket reseal. After the job was done we were pulling all electrical plugs and blowing them out
Just to get the cat purring....
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_In_MA View Post
Don't wash it in the same place you'll be puling the seats - otherwise you'll end up laying in all the crud you just washed off.

I'd apply the rust converter after you take the seats out. I wouldn't want to paint over the bolt threads I just washed, and you'll have a ton of uncoated holes when you remove the seat bolts.
Both good comments. I think I will still apply the rust converter prior to pulling the seats as I will still end up applying more for patches and holes I need to cut through the floor anyway. My hope is that it might make taking the seat bolts out a little easier if the nuts have had a going over. Prolly not but hope springs eternal =)


As for the engine cleaning I have decided to go with a steam cleaner, some degreaser, light rinse water (no pressure washer IOW) and lots of brushes and elbow grease. I will update with some before and after pictures and comments on how it went. Thanks for all the suggestions and information everyone.
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Old 10-21-2018, 07:27 PM   #9
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Good call. More than a few engines & trannies have been ruined by 3500 psi water blasting.
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Old 10-29-2018, 11:25 AM   #10
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I live up in the rust belt, so buses up here may act different, but about 80% of the seat bolts that go through the floors on my 99 bluebird twisted off. This was actually preferable to the 20% that unscrewed, as I had to have a kid go under and hold the nut or crawl under and clamp a vice grip to it, then go back on top and try again! If they twist off, you save a ton of time and aching back. You can simply pound out the broken bolt with a punch if you want. I found that I could improve the twisting off percentage to nearly 100% by just trying to tighten the bolts, rather than loosening them.
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