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Old 07-02-2007, 12:56 AM   #1
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Proper Rivet Size and Type

Who knows the proper rivet type and size to replace roof rivets as well as sidewall rivets, (they appear to be the same), on a TC2000?
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Old 07-17-2007, 08:38 PM   #2
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

well if have removed the rivets what size of drill bit fits in the whole I'm betting its a 3/8 drill bit
if its 1/4 its 1/4 if its a 3/8 whole it 3/8
The most important thing is that the rivet does not waller around in the whole
The other question is do you want to use a pull rivet or a buck rivet.
I would use buck rivets if it were me they are less likely to leak.
there are pull rivets that self sealing if you have not bucked rivets before use these they have a rubber sleeve on the pull shaft and rubber washers under the head. just make shure they are tight in the hole. if they are lose drill hole to the next size up and use the corresponding rivet
its just asthetic value. once they are painted they will blend in anyways
let me know if I can help further dale
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:42 PM   #3
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

Thanks for the info... You have a good source for those self-sealing rivets?
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:51 PM   #4
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

have not bought any for a long time but if memory serves right brown aviation tool supply ok has about everything for clecos to rivets any tool associated with rivets I looked in my books for a catalog can't find it but any aviation supply should have them as well
hope this helps dale
if you can't find them i have a local aviation supply in kansas city kansas I should be able to get them from It's called air parts and mail them to you let me know dale
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:52 PM   #5
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

ok ( oklahoma) not just ok ok
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Old 07-19-2007, 11:02 PM   #6
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

OK
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:39 PM   #7
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

Have you found the rivets you need yet or do I need to run done to my supplier to find them for you
dale
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Old 07-26-2007, 12:05 AM   #8
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

Ain't taken the time to look over that site... Took the interior walls down below the windows and got rid of the old, wet, rust stained insulation. Also, I'm trying to figure out how to replace some of the cancer around the wheel wells. Need to remove the exterior skin and replace it with some fresh new stuff...
Trying to get behind the old skin and remove it.... It don't wanna cooperate...
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Old 07-26-2007, 12:27 AM   #9
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

Just took a low fly-by of the Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co., and couldn't find any self-sealing rivets by themselves...
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Old 07-26-2007, 08:01 PM   #10
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Re: Proper Rivet Size and Type

could you let me see a closer picture of the cancer showing. And would you crank the resolution to the best setting.
The answer is yes on replacing old skin but just cut an inch into the good metal. The best way to remove the skin rivets without messing up the skin, is to take a center punch and dimple the exact center of the rivet and drill out rivet. It looks like the rust has crawled under the the ribbed scuff guard( the black trim I would remove that black panel paint seperately before reinstalling. Since its steel, and I assume you can weld? I hope, if not one of your friends should be able to. make the splice under the trim and just lap the new panel over the rivet line, instead of under it. very few people would ever notice that it should be under than over it. The other reason to do that when you paint it all you need to do is run a tap line just next to the new piece of metal, prime and paint since you will be reinstalling the black trim piece. you will not need to blend the paint above the splice. Obviously you want to remove the wheel well molding and paint it as well. or is it rubber.
If it is rubber use a product called bumper black will make it look new.

Essentially you will be replacing a triangle, the top where the splice is made will be covered and left point of the triangle will be covered by wheel well molding and the top molding and the vertical line to the right will be rivetted with the new piece lapped on top so you will have a clean edge. if you must grind the rust off of the area that overlap the rusty piece that needs to be replaced mark with a straight edge a line and grindup to that line mask it and hand paint before over lapping the new piece and rivitting.

since the location is on the side and not on a roof panel using steel pull rivets you can use a butane torch heat flux it and fill the center whole of the rivet with rosin core (not acid) it will wick in and fill the whole just like swetting a pipe joint. sand a little bit and go.
Yes because the skin is steel use steel rivets, If the wholes are wallered out drill to the next size and make sure it is a tight fit.

. If i did not explain it clear enough I can email you my phone number and we can hash it out some more.
really hopes this helps if this as clear as mudd we will try again dale
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