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02-23-2018, 10:24 AM
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#1
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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PVC/Plastic Sub Floor?
So I was thinking of what to use as my base for the bus floor.
Most people just lay 1/2 or 3/4 plywood as the first layer, then add runners, more insulation and then a higher quality flooring before laying the final product I think.
What if you used that PVC or shower stall type paneling as that first layer? Its 100% water proof and your putting Plywood over it anyway?
Just think of it as a way to 100% waterproof the floor from below but not if thats necessary?
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02-23-2018, 11:49 PM
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#2
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 71
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A few arguments for plywood:
1) It's super cheap.
2) It's not brittle like PVC and will hold up to vibration (from driving) much better.
3) It's easy to cut with inexpensive tools. Home Depot/Lowe's will even cut 4'x8' sheets for you in the store.
I don't think waterproofing the floor from underneath is necessary. The very bottom level steel floor (whatever was on the bus when you pulled up the rubber floor) already serves that purpose. You shouldn't be getting much water coming up from under the bus anyway, probably just what comes off the wheels when you drive in the rain.
__________________
Professionally converting vehicles and making custom furniture with a combined 14 years of mechanical/electrical engineering experience.
https://www.thunderstruck-studios.com/
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02-24-2018, 10:14 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Ridge Manor, FL
Posts: 311
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: Ford B600
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 20 person
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We are laying 3/4 inch plywood in ours.
__________________
"Living Our Own Story"
The Bowser Journal
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02-24-2018, 10:29 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 278
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When I work on these, we do 1/2 inch foam board, half inch ply, then add the flooring. We tape all joints in the foam and stager the ply joints so they don't fall on top of the foam joints. It makes for a more stable floor. Also, we run the flooring 90 degrees to the plywood joints so no flooring joints fall on top of the plywood joints. Usually, we lay the ply across the bus floor and run the flooring down the length of the bus.
I have done 1/4 inch foil faced foam board foil side up, 7/16 OSB smooth side up, and glued down vinyl roll flooring. I did this to keep as much interior height as possible. A few years back, I saw on another forum where a guy laid 1/2 inch foam down, then 1/4 inch underlayment, and glued down vinyl roll flooring.
I do advise against using adhesive backed vinyl squares or strips. Every time I have seen these used, they peel up in hot weather (90F+) and really cold weather (below 40F).
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02-24-2018, 11:42 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
When I work on these, we do 1/2 inch foam board, half inch ply, then add the flooring. We tape all joints in the foam and stager the ply joints so they don't fall on top of the foam joints. It makes for a more stable floor. Also, we run the flooring 90 degrees to the plywood joints so no flooring joints fall on top of the plywood joints. Usually, we lay the ply across the bus floor and run the flooring down the length of the bus.
I have done 1/4 inch foil faced foam board foil side up, 7/16 OSB smooth side up, and glued down vinyl roll flooring. I did this to keep as much interior height as possible. A few years back, I saw on another forum where a guy laid 1/2 inch foam down, then 1/4 inch underlayment, and glued down vinyl roll flooring.
I do advise against using adhesive backed vinyl squares or strips. Every time I have seen these used, they peel up in hot weather (90F+) and really cold weather (below 40F).
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Thanks. Good info.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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02-25-2018, 09:36 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,208
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: 3800 International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben2go
When I work on these, we do 1/2 inch foam board, half inch ply, then add the flooring. We tape all joints in the foam and stager the ply joints so they don't fall on top of the foam joints. It makes for a more stable floor. Also, we run the flooring 90 degrees to the plywood joints so no flooring joints fall on top of the plywood joints. Usually, we lay the ply across the bus floor and run the flooring down the length of the bus.
I have done 1/4 inch foil faced foam board foil side up, 7/16 OSB smooth side up, and glued down vinyl roll flooring. I did this to keep as much interior height as possible. A few years back, I saw on another forum where a guy laid 1/2 inch foam down, then 1/4 inch underlayment, and glued down vinyl roll flooring.
I do advise against using adhesive backed vinyl squares or strips. Every time I have seen these used, they peel up in hot weather (90F+) and really cold weather (below 40F).
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don't mean to steal the thread, but its time I up date the flooring in my bus, have plywood now, might use vinyl click type planks, but was wondering how they wood hold up in the winter during cold storage -30
tks
gbstewart
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02-25-2018, 11:19 AM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins
Thanks. Good info.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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You're welcome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbstewart
don't mean to steal the thread, but its time I up date the flooring in my bus, have plywood now, might use vinyl click type planks, but was wondering how they wood hold up in the winter during cold storage -30
tks
gbstewart
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I can't say. I've never been in that cold of weather before. I would allow for expansion and contraction of the flooring. It may help to lay in the flooring after the walls are in and allow about 3/16 inch for expansion and contraction. The gap can be covered with small baseboards. I have used 1/2 x 3 furring strips attached to the wall with a bit of PL (liquid nails) and 3/4 inch finish/trim nails. It also gives a finished homey look. They can be prepainted outside the bus. Then installed and a quick touch up over the nails with paint.
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02-25-2018, 11:40 AM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 74
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If you want water proof floors I have a better option for you
Look up a product called advantex
It’s cheap, easy to get, and easy to work with
It’s a subfloor product
And it’s 100% water proof
I’ve been using it for years
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02-25-2018, 11:56 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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If you want a waterproof floor why not put down a big continuous roll of linoleum? Instead of trimming the floor covering to the edge of the floor, allow the flooring to ride up the wall about 4". That will keep any spilled liquids from getting under your flooring.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-26-2018, 07:37 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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A metal floor is waterproof. You just need to mitigate sweating/condensation. That can be accomplished by using marine grade plywood over a well coated metal surface ( i.e. rustproof the metal first.)
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02-26-2018, 07:56 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lebanon, IN
Posts: 272
Year: 1998
Chassis: TC 2000 bluebird
Engine: 5.9 cummins
Rated Cap: 66
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Pressure treated plywood causes accelerated corrosion of any steel fasteners in contact with the wood. I would hesitate using it in a bus.
http://www.ggashi.com/wordpress/wp-c...-Corrosion.pdf
Bill
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02-26-2018, 07:58 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Roger that. Pressure treated, especially the new stuff, eats metal. Even requires specially treated fasteners. Marine ply...no problemo.
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02-26-2018, 08:26 PM
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#13
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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I working with a coach so mine doesnt have the metal floor.
I have plywood and then vinyl flooring to remove but on some areas like the luggage bays the plywood is open to the bays underneath.
I was thinking maybe just truck bed liner them from underneath and seal it that way?
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02-26-2018, 08:38 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rberriz
If you want water proof floors I have a better option for you
Look up a product called advantex
It’s cheap, easy to get, and easy to work with
It’s a subfloor product
And it’s 100% water proof
I’ve been using it for years
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Have you been using it in buses?
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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02-26-2018, 08:39 PM
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#15
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins
Have you been using it in buses?
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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No in houses, but I don’t see how it would be any different.
It’s 4x8 sheets 3/4” thick
Completely impervious to water
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02-27-2018, 04:19 PM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rberriz
No in houses, but I don’t see how it would be any different.
It’s 4x8 sheets 3/4” thick
Completely impervious to water
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Are we talking about Advantech? Supposedly waterproof OSB? There's a guy who builds houses has a YouTube channel named Matt Risinger who swears by the stuff. I watch him, so I've heard of it. No opinion either way.
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02-27-2018, 05:03 PM
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#17
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox
Are we talking about Advantech? Supposedly waterproof OSB? There's a guy who builds houses has a YouTube channel named Matt Risinger who swears by the stuff. I watch him, so I've heard of it. No opinion either way.
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YES that’s the stuff
It’s truly amazing stuff
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