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Old 05-05-2016, 08:25 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
Dont get any of us wrong, we want you to buy a school bus. We want you to have fun converting it. I hope in the future or maybe if you can timeshare space for a year you can.

Side note: I hope you stay active on the forum and keep researching and asking questions. Good luck with whatever you choose to do

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Old 05-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #22
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
me too... thats why im not ripping out the original interior of my bus.. I bought a BUS.. and thats what I want.. and thats what I will have..

sure i'll move things around inside.. and you can definitely make things look nice inside a bus..

im going to give you my OPINION.. and I know others will take issue with it...

1. you dont HAVE to remove all of your ceilings and walls unless your bus truly has a major water / mold / air quality problem... you can test the air quality.. or if your bus smells musty, rank, or has water leaks in prolonged rain then yes your bus should be gutted out.. but not all busses leak bad..

if I were living full-time in my bus I would probably be a lot more inclined to gut and rebuild.. otherwise not so much.. my last bus was 20+ years old when i got it and didnt leak a drop.. i stored it indoors when I wasnt using it..

an electronic air-cleaner can help with some of the "old bus smell" as long as noted above you dont have tons of mold.

2. you CAN heat with propane using a Heat exchanger based heater.. one where the Flames are in a chamber and exhausted to the outside while warm, dry air is blown into the cabin.. similar to the furnace in a house... thus eliminating the moisture from the flames..

3. mini-blinds (esp when anchored at top and bottom look nice on bus windows.. and also look modern and semi-professional.. (buy metal ones.. the plastic ones will de-form in hot hot sun)..

4. air conditioning solves a lot of moisture issues.. a good A/C that dehumidifes well makes things much nicer .. there are inverter-driven portable units now that need simply a couple 4-6" round holes cut to the outside for operation and do a dandy job of humidity removal...

yes you will need a generator or connection to shore-power to run them..


just my thoughts.. others can flame away.. but nevertheless I have no plans of pulling down my ceilings in my bus unless I cant breath... then im going to make a real go at pulling them down in such a way I can replace them for that BUS FEEL...

-Christopher
No flame, but buying a bus especially in nc you are runninh a risk with odds against you. However if he does have covered or interior storage he can get away with not gutting the bus completely. The seats will obviously have to go. You can pull the roof partially down and replace the crap insulation. But that is double the work. As for the rest, its up to them. I just dont see it even without gutting the interior, putting in electric or plumbing. If they had a budget of 6-8k(total) they could make the interior look great but i wouldnt drive it anywhere.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:38 PM   #23
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I still say a bookmobile would work for you. It's aesthetically pleasing and it doesn't have 14 windows worth of distractions.

The thing is there's barely enough room to live in these things, and it sounds like you're thinking of one of the shorty buses. Then if you want an office too... If you've got an apartment and can use the bus just for the mobile office you might be able to do what you're thinking. You could make a clever build and have it all, maybe. I think you've got some serious space issues concerning how much you can really get into a short bus. It would make a decent office, but still small. The best view in town is the one that changes.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azuleslight View Post
No flame, but buying a bus especially in nc you are runninh a risk with odds against you. However if he does have covered or interior storage he can get away with not gutting the bus completely. The seats will obviously have to go. You can pull the roof partially down and replace the crap insulation. But that is double the work. As for the rest, its up to them. I just dont see it even without gutting the interior, putting in electric or plumbing. If they had a budget of 6-8k(total) they could make the interior look great but i wouldnt drive it anywhere.
why wouldnt you drive it? I left a 20+ year old bluebird out in the soaking rain more than once and never got water inside unless I forgot and left the driver's window open (while the A/C was still defunct).. and that was an Ohio Bus with a crap (one step better than rattle-can) paint-job..

does every bus leak or have Black mold? or does everyone just think they do? because the black tar they use to adhere the insulation sometimes looks like mold?

im not saying that it isnt the BEST way (to gut a bus).. as it obviously is.. to put high R-value, fresh / clean insulation up... I would agreee 100%.. im just saying unless the bus has Major water issues it may not be necessary esp for a build that isnt a full-timer or someone spending days and nights at a time in the bus..

-Christopher
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:49 PM   #25
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Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,827
Year: 1991
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
I still say a bookmobile would work for you. It's aesthetically pleasing and it doesn't have 14 windows worth of distractions.

The thing is there's barely enough room to live in these things, and it sounds like you're thinking of one of the shorty buses. Then if you want an office too... If you've got an apartment and can use the bus just for the mobile office you might be able to do what you're thinking. You could make a clever build and have it all, maybe. I think you've got some serious space issues concerning how much you can really get into a short bus. It would make a decent office, but still small. The best view in town is the one that changes.
yep thats why my Bus's intention is to be a Mobile work-studio / Dev-Lab. because that changing view is what its about for me
-Christopher
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:29 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 17
Okay, think I wasn't using the proper reply method before...hopefully people saw which posts I was replying to!

I really appreciate your perspective, and how you've broken down these ideas. A good air purifier and dehumidifier seems like great additions as well...assuming I figured out the proper power supply...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
me too... thats why im not ripping out the original interior of my bus.. I bought a BUS.. and thats what I want.. and thats what I will have..

sure i'll move things around inside.. and you can definitely make things look nice inside a bus..

im going to give you my OPINION.. and I know others will take issue with it...

1. you dont HAVE to remove all of your ceilings and walls unless your bus truly has a major water / mold / air quality problem... you can test the air quality.. or if your bus smells musty, rank, or has water leaks in prolonged rain then yes your bus should be gutted out.. but not all busses leak bad..

if I were living full-time in my bus I would probably be a lot more inclined to gut and rebuild.. otherwise not so much.. my last bus was 20+ years old when i got it and didnt leak a drop.. i stored it indoors when I wasnt using it..

an electronic air-cleaner can help with some of the "old bus smell" as long as noted above you dont have tons of mold.

2. you CAN heat with propane using a Heat exchanger based heater.. one where the Flames are in a chamber and exhausted to the outside while warm, dry air is blown into the cabin.. similar to the furnace in a house... thus eliminating the moisture from the flames..

3. mini-blinds (esp when anchored at top and bottom look nice on bus windows.. and also look modern and semi-professional.. (buy metal ones.. the plastic ones will de-form in hot hot sun)..

4. air conditioning solves a lot of moisture issues.. a good A/C that dehumidifes well makes things much nicer .. there are inverter-driven portable units now that need simply a couple 4-6" round holes cut to the outside for operation and do a dandy job of humidity removal...

yes you will need a generator or connection to shore-power to run them..


just my thoughts.. others can flame away.. but nevertheless I have no plans of pulling down my ceilings in my bus unless I cant breath... then im going to make a real go at pulling them down in such a way I can replace them for that BUS FEEL...

-Christopher
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:30 PM   #27
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 17
Thank you for the encouragement!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azuleslight View Post
Dont get any of us wrong, we want you to buy a school bus. We want you to have fun converting it. I hope in the future or maybe if you can timeshare space for a year you can.

Side note: I hope you stay active on the forum and keep researching and asking questions. Good luck with whatever you choose to do
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:44 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 17
In terms of living in it, the idea has been that it will be where I sleep and store things, and I'll get a membership to a YMCA or something for showering, so what I've pictured in the space is a comfortable armchair or somesuch, two more standard-sized chairs, a chest of sorts for storage and a small table. My bed would probably be a tri-fold foam mattress that can be folded into an ottoman. So it would all be a combined, versatile space. It wouldn't be apparent that I was living in it to anyone who didn't already know.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
I still say a bookmobile would work for you. It's aesthetically pleasing and it doesn't have 14 windows worth of distractions.

The thing is there's barely enough room to live in these things, and it sounds like you're thinking of one of the shorty buses. Then if you want an office too... If you've got an apartment and can use the bus just for the mobile office you might be able to do what you're thinking. You could make a clever build and have it all, maybe. I think you've got some serious space issues concerning how much you can really get into a short bus. It would make a decent office, but still small. The best view in town is the one that changes.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:48 PM   #29
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
why wouldnt you drive it? I left a 20+ year old bluebird out in the soaking rain more than once and never got water inside unless I forgot and left the driver's window open (while the A/C was still defunct).. and that was an Ohio Bus with a crap (one step better than rattle-can) paint-job..

does every bus leak or have Black mold? or does everyone just think they do? because the black tar they use to adhere the insulation sometimes looks like mold?

im not saying that it isnt the BEST way (to gut a bus).. as it obviously is.. to put high R-value, fresh / clean insulation up... I would agreee 100%.. im just saying unless the bus has Major water issues it may not be necessary esp for a build that isnt a full-timer or someone spending days and nights at a time in the bus..

-Christopher
I am basing my assessment on two things, they want it quick and cheap. A cheap bus is normally riddled with rust issues. Mold is a whole other battle that i wont think about lol. At auction you can get a skoolie for 3-4k sight unseen and it will have some to no issues. A skoolie thats cheap 2k or cost less than scrap value probably wont even drive.
The reason i say do not drive the skoolie most likely a scrap value bus will not be all that mobile to start. The bigget issue is quick, that always leads to mistakes...missed rust areas, not seeing the 3 vs 4 numbers on tires, forgetting to check several other buses and so on. Skoolies are not quick by any means and they are cheap but not cheap enough to not require an inspection...at least not for me lol
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:04 AM   #30
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Chassis: Freighliner FS65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azuleslight View Post
I am basing my assessment on two things, they want it quick and cheap. A cheap bus is normally riddled with rust issues. Mold is a whole other battle that i wont think about lol. At auction you can get a skoolie for 3-4k sight unseen and it will have some to no issues. A skoolie thats cheap 2k or cost less than scrap value probably wont even drive.
The reason i say do not drive the skoolie most likely a scrap value bus will not be all that mobile to start. The bigget issue is quick, that always leads to mistakes...missed rust areas, not seeing the 3 vs 4 numbers on tires, forgetting to check several other buses and so on. Skoolies are not quick by any means and they are cheap but not cheap enough to not require an inspection...at least not for me lol
My two thousand dollar bus drives GREAT.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:09 AM   #31
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,827
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
in my own opinion there a lot of low-cost busses that drive just fine.. drivetrains, brakes, wipers, defrosters, etc are often kept up to be able to pass state inspections..

when a bus gets too rusty and the state fails to pass it then it gets dumped.. or it ages out, or the district has money to spend, etc..

I do see bus on the auction sites that say they dont run, but I think alot of busses are in pretty good running condition even though the bodies are falling apart...

seems to me that finding a bus that "will run and drive" for low cost seems to be the easiest part of the search.. vs a bus that has the Correct drivetrain for the owner's use and the bus that fits the size, height, body condition, etc...

busses with highway gears, overdrive, higher horsepower engines, etc command higher prices as often do RE busses since those are the most desirable..

I wasnt aware the OP was planning to live in his bus, I was thinking it was simply a mobile office.. I would sooner take the time to Gut and re-insulate that bus knowing he is nearly full-timing in it... I totally agree with the adive of others to gut when full-timing or over-nighting for extrended periods...

now to keep the feel of a Bus inside.. it was brought up to me to use wall protector sheets as a ceiling if I gutted my bus.. so to the OP.. I came up with the idea that you might be able to use these inserted into HVAC S-channel.. you would then rivet or screw the S-channel to the ribs of the bus.. you try not to rivet through the panel too much as this way the panel can move with the flexing of the bus...

1/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Plastic Panel-63003 - The Home Depot

Speedi-Products 48 in. x 30-Gauge ESS Cleat Duct Connector-AC-ESS 48 - The Home Depot

-Christopher
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:24 AM   #32
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
If you're persistent and vigilant, you can score an awesome bus for next to nothing. If you get in a big hurry you end up with less bus for more money.

My first bus was a free mid 80's Thomas with a gas Ford and 545. Ran and drove good. Wouldn't want another one though.

When I saw a 40' with a DT466, 643, air ride, and storage bays I got excited. I get really excited when I won for a bid of $2050.

After that first gas bus, I decided to find out what I really wanted in a bus. I lurked here and at School Bus Fleet forum for maybe a year before buying this one.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:36 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypnobus View Post
In terms of living in it, the idea has been that it will be where I sleep and store things, and I'll get a membership to a YMCA or something for showering, so what I've pictured in the space is a comfortable armchair or somesuch, two more standard-sized chairs, a chest of sorts for storage and a small table. My bed would probably be a tri-fold foam mattress that can be folded into an ottoman. So it would all be a combined, versatile space. It wouldn't be apparent that I was living in it to anyone who didn't already know.
So you're going to live in it full time AND use it as an office for clients. As soon as anyone steps inside they'll know you're living in it.....just no way to hide it. If you're trying to start a serious, legit therapy business you need to quit wasting time with the dream of having an "all-in-one" vehicle and focus on finding a dedicated, professional looking space to meet clients. Sorry, but a school bus won't cut it on the low budget and quick time frame you're talking. Might work if the only clients you're looking for will be at Burning Man and other festivals, but as a normal, professional clinical therapy office it just isn't the right space to be taken seriously and be successful.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:07 AM   #34
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If you get that bus working you could come around and hypnotize us to make us into more positive thinkers.
I think you could do what you're planning in a larger bus. A medium size bus at a minimum.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:05 AM   #35
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I think you could do what you're planning in a larger bus. A medium size bus at a minimum.
Or go full-on motor coach. Plenty of space to hide the living area from the "office" area.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:55 PM   #36
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Or go full-on motor coach. Plenty of space to hide the living area from the "office" area.
Agree, motor coach is ideal for what you want to do. Think of blood mobiles and mobile Dr's offices, they are all built on coach platforms. Once again, will cost lots of $$$$$$$ and take lots of time to build. Look up OffGrid1 build, she is doing an awesome build on a VanHool Coach!
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:32 PM   #37
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Year: 1986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azuleslight View Post
No flame, but buying a bus especially in nc you are runninh a risk with odds against you. However if he does have covered or interior storage he can get away with not gutting the bus completely. The seats will obviously have to go. You can pull the roof partially down and replace the crap insulation. But that is double the work. As for the rest, its up to them. I just dont see it even without gutting the interior, putting in electric or plumbing. If they had a budget of 6-8k(total) they could make the interior look great but i wouldnt drive it anywhere.
Easy now on the N.C. bus thing? There are 2-different climates in N.C. And my bus might be under powered (built for stop-go-stop) but even on the coast I had minimal rust with no ospho required? And the only body rust I found was from the BS rubber gaskets behind the warning lights I guess onslow county took care of there busses. but no matter what my 86 slept outside until I bought him in 2011 and he still sleeps there.
I do have damage at the front door/step bottom from it not being locked tight every night in his years
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