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Old 10-13-2016, 04:55 PM   #11
Skoolie
 
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Location: Sarasota, Florida
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Year: 1995
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Engine: d466 mechanical
Is a .7 continuous parasite draw normal? I have a dt466 mechanical.

I took out all the fuses in the panel box and nothing changed. Any suggestions?
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:32 PM   #12
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Year: 1995
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Actually by pulling the fuses my amp draw went up?
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:49 PM   #13
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Year: 1986
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Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
Sorry just seen this? I have the same single wire style lights and yes the light frame and mounting screws are the ground. when I had a problem with my lights it was the ground. I wanted good paint behind my lights so that stopped the frame from grounding but the screws are the most secure part of the ground so I cleaned the screw holes as best as I could with a small wire brush like used to clean small copper fitting's and was able to make mine work but wasn't happy with that solution that would only by time before it happened again so I turned my whole frame an 1/8" and drilled and mounted in fresh and un corrupted screw/grounding mounting holes. As long as the screws have solid/clean metal to metal contact with the frame and screw hole you should be fine or so far mine have been.
One more I think is important (and it might be me) is with the ground going directly to metal I like to think it is important to use dielectric grease to protect the connections from corrosion.(or to me it is a safe/cheap investment) because electricity and metal connections/grounds tend to corrode quicker than just putting a screw in with no wire.
And please any real sparkies/electricians out there expand on or disapprove my thoughts on dielectric corrosion. I know for a fact it is on dissimilar metals like steel and copper but I have heard of it wiring issues also.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:00 PM   #14
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Year: 1986
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I also fought an issue with my reverse lights that when tested at the lights I had power there when grounded to the frame/body but the lights wouldn't work? Ended up being my pressure switch in the tranny? I can't explain it and my batteries don't drain down?
I have gone out of my way to seperate anything I add between the bus starting,driving,working anything and anything I added to save a starting issue being connected to a house issue. Therefore if there is a problem with the house I can still start and go and if there is a problem with the start then I have somewhere to stay while I work on it?
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #15
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Engine: d466 mechanical
Jolly, thanks for the reply man. I did as you said and cleaned the contact around the screws and my turn signals now work.

Now I'm working on a parasite draw of sorts. It takes 2 days for my start battery to drain down (8d 1600cca and 179ah).
I'm measuring a continuous draw of about .7 amps, pulled all fuses and no change besides "waking up" a few fuses.
With that little draw am I supposed to be searching for a light or so? No switched at panel are on, no lights on up front.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:31 PM   #16
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Location: North carolina
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Year: 1986
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Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
I can't say? Maybe another bad ground somewhere? But to save your batteries you could install a disconnect switch until you find the issue? There is not a single wire I test on my bus body that does not show something? I can't explain it? But I haven't had to jump my batteries in a while and still read something on the bus skin? No matter what original light interior or exterior I go to?
There are some sparkles on this page so I am pushing/asking them to chime in with there thoughts?
Good luck.
By the way how did Ya'll do in the storm down that way? I am surrounded by flooding rivers but setting high and dry close to the beach hope Ya'll are well?
One other thing is the age of your batteries? If your batteries are old then it could be a bad cell in the battery?
Since I changed mine I have had no issues?
Not saying that a parasitic drain is good on them but the bad cell could be a drain?
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:33 PM   #17
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I'm attempting to check the starter to see if it's causing the draw.
Replaced my alternator about a month ago so it shouldn't be that.
Hoping a new starter or bad connections is the cause.

And thank you! We've had two hurricanes recently, the first flung branches into my windows and gave me an excuse to reskin and do RV Windows.
Hurrican Mathew recently I was too prepared for! I've got a 20,000 sq ft airplane hanger I brought the bus into the weather the storm and it barely came.
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:34 AM   #18
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Location: Prince George, BC, Canada
Posts: 198
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Blue bird
Chassis: CHEVROLET C60
Engine: 350 ci on propane
Rated Cap: 48
On my 1974 BB chev the Chevy fuse box has rusty contacts at the fuse �� I have to figure out how to remove the rust or replace the 20 circuit fuse panel.
Oh well I wanted a antique
All the best with the lights.
Gordon
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