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02-24-2016, 05:42 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Warner, NH
Posts: 8
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
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Removal of seat mount rail from wall
In my 1993 Bluebird, if I remove (cut off) just the "lip" where where the seats were mounted, but leave the 8 inch metal section, will that compromise the structural integrity of my bus? Thanks.
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02-24-2016, 05:51 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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no its what i did also
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02-24-2016, 05:53 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Depends on the bus. In most, the seat rail is indeed a structural component. There has been quite a bit of discussion on that topic here.
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02-24-2016, 06:58 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Depends on the bus. In most, the seat rail is indeed a structural component. There has been quite a bit of discussion on that topic here.
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so is the inside skin but we all remove that. she wants to know if its ok to remove it. the answer is yes
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02-24-2016, 07:16 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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You probably already saw nat_ster's drawing on this thread or elsewhere? I've left that seat mounting ledge in mine because it stiffens the vertical section of the chair rail. Without it, the top edge of the vertical piece can wobble sideways. Just a little folded part like that adds remarkable strength to a piece of sheet metal. I'm planning around it by insulating the walls to the depth of that ledge so that it "disappears." If you really need to notch it in a few places to get something through I wouldn't see a big problem with that. I'm inclined to believe that little ledge, along with the rub rails on the outside, plays a part in controlling how the side walls flap in the wind. I don't know of any data to prove or disprove it; that's just my own personal theory.
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02-24-2016, 07:31 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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I do not plan to remove mine. I will work around it as best I can..being a former
Bodyman my thought is the manufacturing company wants to cut cost as much as possible, so they would not have put it in if it were not needed..holding the seat up is just an added bonus for them.
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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02-24-2016, 11:22 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Depends on who you talk to. The inner skin discussion is another one that has gone on for years with lots of unqualified input. The only definitive opinion on this site came directly from Blue Bird stating that the inner skin was indeed a critical structural component and not to be removed. Go where you want. I'll stick with what the factory engineers have to offer.
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02-24-2016, 11:58 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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If you want to maintain the structural integrity of a School Bus then put all your inner sheetmetal back on & reinstall all the seats you removed, reinstall all windows that were removed and or lower your roofs back to where they were.
The moment you change anything you have changed the standards a School Bus has to meet but you will still be stronger than a S&S
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02-25-2016, 05:55 AM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T
If you want to maintain the structural integrity of a School Bus then put all your inner sheetmetal back on & reinstall all the seats you removed, reinstall all windows that were removed and or lower your roofs back to where they were.
The moment you change anything you have changed the standards a School Bus has to meet but you will still be stronger than a S&S
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All of the items that you spoke of removing have screws or small bolts holding them in. And you are after all replacing what you remove with new items.
Cabinets, walls, and when you reskin the Windows it makes that part stronger.
The chair rail is welded or riveted every few inches so to make it harder to removed to help keep the structural integrity intact. JMHO
Plus I might add, that I know nothing about nothing
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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02-25-2016, 08:06 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Depends on who you talk to. The inner skin discussion is another one that has gone on for years with lots of unqualified input. The only definitive opinion on this site came directly from Blue Bird stating that the inner skin was indeed a critical structural component and not to be removed. Go where you want. I'll stick with what the factory engineers have to offer.
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Just because one doesn't work for bb doesn't mean their input is unqualified.
The man who ok'd my roof raise has engineered some very famous aircraft.
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02-25-2016, 08:12 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T
If you want to maintain the structural integrity of a School Bus then put all your inner sheetmetal back on & reinstall all the seats you removed, reinstall all windows that were removed and or lower your roofs back to where they were.
The moment you change anything you have changed the standards a School Bus has to meet but you will still be stronger than a S&S
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We need more meetups so folks can actually sit in a bus with a metal interior vs one thats fully converted and insulated.
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02-25-2016, 10:09 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo
All of the items that you spoke of removing have screws or small bolts holding them in. And you are after all replacing what you remove with new items.
Cabinets, walls, and when you reskin the Windows it makes that part stronger.
The chair rail is welded or riveted every few inches so to make it harder to removed to help keep the structural integrity intact. JMHO
Plus I might add, that I know nothing about nothing
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My point is, the moment you do anything (Remove Seats) The you have changed the original Structural design.
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02-26-2016, 04:24 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Salida CO
Posts: 29
Year: 1982
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I am glad I found this discussion because I would love to remove that rail as well, not just to eliminate the part that juts out, but more because I want to lose the panel underneath that was trapping tons of moisture. Not sure what the consensus is. I will continue to follow this thread before yanking it out.
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02-26-2016, 04:41 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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You might be waiting a while... it's rare that we reach a consensus here! Usually we agree to disagree and try to keep it friendly.
All kidding aside, the vertical section of the chair rail is the primary thing that holds the bus walls and roof to the floor. The exterior sheet metal attaches to the ribs in the wall, the ribs in the wall attach to that vertical section of chair rail, and the chair rail attaches to the floor. We can debate the importance of the flange the seats rest on, but the overall piece that creates the pocket where moisture is getting trapped (if I've understood you description correctly) has to stay.
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02-26-2016, 05:03 PM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Salida CO
Posts: 29
Year: 1982
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Thanks. I have decided to keep it in place and work around it.
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02-26-2016, 09:13 PM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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And the foot bone is connected to the ankle bone and the ankle bone is connected to the shin bone and the shin bone is connected to the knee bone..
There was a cool song bout that many years ago..any one remember?
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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02-27-2016, 12:36 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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BTW...if you enclose the area below the chair rails tab, it makes the perfect chase for electrical and even plumbing.
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02-27-2016, 11:37 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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11-04-2020, 09:03 PM
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#19
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 1
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Seat rail removal moisture
So I’ve removed half of one side of the seat rail, primarily because there is that crappy foam insulation stuck inside that I can’t get out. It’s also full of dirt and some have been full of moisture. I hesitate to cover over it with that moisture and dirt in there. Ive been using a grinder to cut out the portion between the supports. Mine is not screwed or riveted but either glued or welded to the supports. I can’t see any weld beads so I’m thinking it’s just glued. How do I deal with the dirt, moisture, and foam issues if I don’t remove it? Btw I have a 2002 25.5’ Thomas freight-liner.
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