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Old 06-26-2018, 02:07 PM   #1
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Removing Bus Walls - Need Advice

I'm sure there are others threads about this question but I couldn't find it. So here we go...

I'm trying to remove the sheet metal from the interior walls and am running into two issue. First, as you can see on the pictures, I have a lower wall section with a lip that sticks out into the bus. This was used to hold up the seats. I imagine this part of the wall cannot be removed, is that correct? If not, any pointers on how to go about this? I was hoping to at least remove that lip if possible so my walls aren't pushed further into the bus.

Secondly, the panels above this lip seem to wrap up under the window the back up behind the windows and are riveted to the outside of the bus. I've seen people just cut these panels below the windows but I'd prefer to remove them cleanly if possible.

Any suggestions? Do I need to remove the rivets on the outside of the bus?

I plan on removing all the windows, covering many of the openings, and either putting new windows in or resealing the old ones. Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2018, 02:30 PM   #2
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Some can easily be removed after removing the windows. Many just cut the metal off an inch or so below the window. Your walls won't be pushed in any from that thin sheet metal.
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Old 06-26-2018, 02:58 PM   #3
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It is my understanding that the "Chair rail" is an engineered part of the bus's structure. As such, I would *NOT* remove any of it. I would *NOT* grind or cut the lip down.


With that said, it's your bus and I can't stop you from doing it. Personally, I would simply build around it, and keep in mind the extra wall thickness will allow for more insulation. Also, it will make a great place to attach things.
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:59 PM   #4
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Some can easily be removed after removing the windows. Many just cut the metal off an inch or so below the window. Your walls won't be pushed in any from that thin sheet metal.
I was more concerned about the lip on the bottom white part of the wall. I don't think that portion can be removed.

As to removing the sheet metal portion, do you advise I cut it a bit below the window or remove the rivets and take the whole sheet out cleanly?
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:02 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
It is my understanding that the "Chair rail" is an engineered part of the bus's structure. As such, I would *NOT* remove any of it. I would *NOT* grind or cut the lip down.


With that said, it's your bus and I can't stop you from doing it. Personally, I would simply build around it, and keep in mind the extra wall thickness will allow for more insulation. Also, it will make a great place to attach things.
Thanks, that's my understanding as well. What do you recommend as far as keeping that lip from being any type of thermal bridge? Do I need to bring furring strips out past it or can I have the material I use for my walls butting up against that lip?
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:13 PM   #6
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Question about posts

Hi there,

I am new to this group. Can anyone tell me how to create a new post in a forum? I have not been able to figure it out and this was the only place I could find to post the question.

THanks!
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:20 PM   #7
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Hi there,

I am new to this group. Can anyone tell me how to create a new post in a forum? I have not been able to figure it out and this was the only place I could find to post the question.

THanks!
Sure. Go to FORUM, then choose a forum (New Member Intros, perhaps?) and in the upper left corner click the black box that says NEW THREAD.
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:59 PM   #8
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I think people here are too anal about thermal bridging. You're never going to completely seal a bus. Insulate the best you can and you'll have enough.
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:23 PM   #9
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I think people here are too anal about thermal bridging. You're never going to completely seal a bus. Insulate the best you can and you'll have enough.



Ain't that the truth! Good call marco!


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Old 06-26-2018, 07:58 PM   #10
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I was sort of surprised to find my lower wall metal does not wrap around the lower window ledge, it is instead flush with the top of the flange and then just spot welded every 2" or so. looks like I'll be shearing that off below the window.
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