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11-16-2014, 03:47 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Henley-on-Thames, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
Posts: 121
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 29
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Removing internal rivets
My 2002 International Bluebird has riveted panels running along the inside of the bus. I want to remove those panels to put better insulation and wooden walls in. What is the best way to remove the rivets? Do you drill them out or grind off the heads?
__________________
My Build site is https://schoolbusconversion.net
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11-17-2014, 01:36 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 147
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TE2000 FE
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Re: Removing internal rivets
Grind them
Chuck
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11-17-2014, 03:19 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Re: Removing internal rivets
Yes, if you don't care about preserving the panels then use an angle grinder. Fastest way by far. Watch your windows, though!! Hot metal sparks like to embed themselves into glass. I didn't know this until it was too late .. Now I hang wet towels over them.
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11-17-2014, 06:48 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Re: Removing internal rivets
I cross cut a X in the rivet heads then took a chisel & brass hammer & busted them off, that was the quickest for me
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11-18-2014, 08:46 AM
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#5
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 77
Year: 1989
Rated Cap: 71
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Re: Removing internal rivets
Quote:
Originally Posted by allwthrrider
I cross cut a X in the rivet heads then took a chisel & brass hammer & busted them off, that was the quickest for me
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Yup, as others have said, this is the way to go. Get ready to be sore.
I'm not sure if the newer bluebirds are the same as my '90, but mine has two panels on the wall. One above the chair rail, and then the chair rail itself and below. If this is the case on yours, do not attempt to remove the bottom portion - it goes under the floor, and won't come out simply by removing the rivets. It would need to be cut off, which is far more trouble than it is worth. Ask me how I know.
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11-22-2014, 06:56 AM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Removing internal rivets
I'm going to start this on my 92 Ward. Got all the seats out so I'm gonna just keep the angle grinder out for a couple more days.
Very sore already!
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11-22-2014, 10:38 AM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 343
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
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Re: Removing internal rivets
The best method I found for the rivets was to punch out the center stem of the rivet and use a 1/4" drill bit to drill them out.
The thing that most people don't understand is that you can't drill them out at full speed on the drill without tearing up the bit.
Just put enough force on the bit that you are getting a good curl of metal coming out of the bit. Ive drilled hundreds of rivets
and still have a usable bit. The main thing is to get that hardened stem out of the middle which then gives you a piloted hole
for your drill to follow. As to grinding the rivets off you will find that a flap disc removes metal faster than a solid disc. Keep
up the good work and apply lots of elbow grease. Also if you just drill deep enough to get to the base metal depth you can use
a cold chisel to pop off the top of the rivet. I've found that the best tool for that is a chisel set with replaceable tips so you
can change from punch to chisel etc with the same tool, very handy.
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11-22-2014, 05:02 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Re: Removing internal rivets
Another thought: are the rivets aluminum? If so, try a flap disc. Those things eat through aluminum real quick, while doing a better job at preserving the base metal.
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11-22-2014, 05:03 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Re: Removing internal rivets
I wouldn't expect them to be aluminum, but who knows
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11-23-2014, 07:27 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Removing internal rivets
I have an angle grinder, a drill, and a hammer and chisel. A six pack and a radio.
Sundays are the best for getting a lot done as everyone else is off of work. M-f its just me.
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07-01-2015, 07:11 PM
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#11
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 83
Year: 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop
The best method I found for the rivets was to punch out the center stem of the rivet and use a 1/4" drill bit to drill them out.
The thing that most people don't understand is that you can't drill them out at full speed on the drill without tearing up the bit.
Just put enough force on the bit that you are getting a good curl of metal coming out of the bit. Ive drilled hundreds of rivets
and still have a usable bit. The main thing is to get that hardened stem out of the middle which then gives you a piloted hole
for your drill to follow. As to grinding the rivets off you will find that a flap disc removes metal faster than a solid disc. Keep
up the good work and apply lots of elbow grease. Also if you just drill deep enough to get to the base metal depth you can use
a cold chisel to pop off the top of the rivet. I've found that the best tool for that is a chisel set with replaceable tips so you
can change from punch to chisel etc with the same tool, very handy.
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I definitely agree with this. After reading a lot of posts and checking youtube videos. An air hammer hooked up to an air compressor to pop out the center of the rivets and then a 1/4" drill to pop off the heads worked wonders. With two people drilling the heads off, the rivets didn't seem like hard work at all. We did drill too fast and wear out one of the bits though, lesson learned.
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07-01-2015, 08:15 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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That's my favorite method. The ones that don't want to pop off with the drill are easily sheared off with the chisel bit.
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